Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

johntrem

All Access
  • Posts

    222
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by johntrem

  1. I've been using a heavier gauge string (11-50) on my Epi Les Paul Special II with good results. Tried the top wrapping technique and am also satisfied with it but noticed that the stud inserts for the tailpiece is pulling up slightly from the body with the increased tension and angle. Prior to restringing I'd noticed that the stud insert on the treble side was up slightly and tried hammering back down flush with the body with no results. After restringing and top wrapping, noticed the bass side pulling up slightly as well. Don't know if this should be something of concern or not or if it's just my guitar OCD annoying me. Anyone else have this situation?

  2. Bought 3 vintage grommet tuner bushings from Stew Mac to replace 3 missing ones on a '67 Harmony Rocket III. After I received them I realized that I should have ordered the relic versions instead of the standard nickel as the original bushings were discolored and aged. I realize that I can order the reliced versions but that's another 10 bucks in shipping for items that cost 80 some cents apiece when I could probably just relic the initial ones I ordered, I'm just not aware of the type of solution I should soak them in to get the aged effect I need. Any suggestions? Thanks.

  3. There were a couple of these in my local music store (since closed) in the Nineties. Always made a point of playing them when I was there. Lovely necks. Squier ought to bring them back.

  4. I have a 2004 Epiphone Les Paul Standard Plus Top in Honeyburst. Very nice guitar. Switched out the Grovers for Gibson Deluxe. Replaced the plastic nut with bone. I also have an ax out in the garage that I bought to chop down some hedges in front of my house years ago. Only used it a couple of times since.

  5. My Epi Junior DC, made in Indonesia in the 90's, is also made from mystery wood, could be bass wood but definitely laminated and has a maple neck... One feature of this early Junior is that the control cavity was sized for 4 controls with a large cover plate making the lower part of the cavity is empty, so I added 16oz of lead to the cavity to help balance it. But aside from a few short comings in the quality of the build, this Cort built Junior DC plays really well..

     

    plSH6oW.jpg

     

    Note a 2011 Junior made at the Gibson Qingdao factory would be all mahogany construction..

    That's lovely. I'm jealous.

  6. If either Epiphone or Gibson toggle caps are too large, what I do is put some wraps of plumber's teflon tape around the threads of the toggle switch then put the cap on. I've done it more times than I can remember. Works fine. If too small I use a small, round jeweler's file to enlarge the hole in the cap.

  7. Did this a few years ago with a Samick SG (Samick made Epiphone for a good number of years) with very good results. Had some help from the late Greg Fitts, known here as Animalfarm. I used a hand reamer to increase the size of the peg holes in the headstock. The originals were 8mm and the Gibson Vintage Deluxe tuners require a 10mm hole. I just took it very slowly and had no problems at all. Also had a very pleasing result. Here's my exchange with Greg concerning it:

     

    View Postjohntrem, on 22 October 2010 - 08:34 PM, said:

    ...and I swear the guitar is louder. Seems to be more clarity in the tone, also.

    I knew that sometimes such things happen! [scared][scared][scared]

    Anyone have any comment on what I perceive as an improvement in tone?

     

     

    Sounds like simple Mechanics/Physics to me:

     

    1. Your ORIGINAL Tuners were held onto bottom of Headstock by screw(s),

    then the shaft passed upwards thru a BUSHING in order to keep it Vertical.

    The only purpose of the screw(s) was to keep Tuner Body from rotating, and

    from falling out when string removed. The Bushing didn't "anchor" squat to the

    Headstock, just made shaft vertical and "free-floating".

     

    2. NEW TUNERS: Has two screws to keep Tuner body from rotating/falling out, BUT

    NOW the Threaded Bushing on Top has allowed you to Mechanically tighten the Tuner

    onto the Headstock, literally making it part of the Guitar. No more "Free-Floating",

    that sucker is now ANCHORED DOWN.

     

    Think of the OTHER end of the strings - The TAILPIECE. A good, solid, well "anchored"

    Tailpiece improves Tonal Response. A poorly anchored/wobbly Tailpiece will result in

    tonal charactistics resembling the doo-doo of the Dog. Yes?

     

    You now have a GOOD "Anchor" on BOTH ends of the Strings! [thumbup][thumbup][thumbup]

    (BTW, bet your git is easier to Intonate now!)

     

    Animal, did some more experimental playing this morning with the Samick SG w/Gibson tuners. Geez, what a change. I A/B'd it with my '04 Epi Les Paul Standard with Grovers and I swear the SG is twice as loud as the Les Paul now.More clarity and sustain. Prior to the tuner switch, the SG was a little grittier sounding than the Les Paul. The Les Paul was more polite sounding, but now the difference is quite stark. The SG is a '96 Artist Series Edition. I had always given some thought to switching out the pickups, only because they are stock and everyone switches out the stock pups, but the SG seems much more "alive" now. I doubt if I'll do the switch.

     

    Also this comment from amx05462:more mass = more ststain and more volume. all you had before was a tuner in a bushing. the newer ones most likely solidly contact the wood all the way through the headstock transfering more sound back through the wood.. same thing from the other end when i added a lyre vibrato to my sg.

     

    If I can do this switchout without a problem I'm sure you can, also.

     

    John

×
×
  • Create New...