[Can anyone ID my guitar?]

The first serial number 80280248

Serial: 80280248

Built in: 28-jan-1980 (serial: 248) (Manufactured in Kalamazoo)

 

The second one: 80980088

Serial: 80980088,

Built in: 07-apr-1980 (serial: 088,) (Manufactured in Kalamazoo)

 

Either way, I believe you have a 1980 guitar, and that makes since because the 1983 catalog does not show the Sonex line, but several models in 1980.

[Somebody is going to be surprised....]

I seen this one, tho the seller has clearly stated that it is made in China and he does not show the headstock saying "Gibson" but he is using Gibson's model numbers and names.

 

But, then again it's 381 bucks with free shipping, so most buyers should know it's not a Gibson.

 

E-bay sale J200

[Les Paul Stop tail adjustmenbt]

As to my knowledge, Gibson have never provided any guidelines as to the ideal height of the tailpiece or whether the string ends leading to the tailpiece should or shouldn't be touching the bridge. It'll also be difficult to convincingly prove whether there really be any sonical advantages if the strings not be touching the bridge. Some players swear it'll give them more sustain, while others mute the dead string ends entirely on either end, that is behind the bridge as well as the nut, with additional equipment so as to avoid any (unwanted) overtones.

 

The short Sweetwater bit posted above (link) discusses another aspect, namely string tension, and how a higher tailpiece reduces overall string tension, while lowering it adds to it, which can play for or against the player. A little experimentation as to what suits one best as player goes a long way. For instance, if you're a lot into overbending (one and a half steps and two steps) you might want to avoid to have the tailpiece set to the lowest position possible so as to not to make overbends excruciatingly difficult to execute due to the additional strength needed if string tension is noticably higher than if the tailpiece were set to normal heights.

 

Luthiers are less, or rather not at all, concerned with this problem by the way. My luthier even asked me whether Gibson had any recommendations as to this when setting up my Les Paul. Luthier Dan Erlewine's take, of Stew-Mac fame, for instance goes into the details from a technician's point-of-view in his article Tune-O-Matic setup: is the trouble with the bridge or the neck angle? (StewMac.com, 2009) without providing conclusive evidence for or against one way or another however.

 

Thank you for the link, I think I understand it now.

I wonder if a small ball bearing dropped into the holes and then screwing the studs down would give less angle and the same tight down effect.

I might give it a try.

[Les Paul Stop tail adjustmenbt]

Thanks for the link sparquelito, I am really not trying to start something here, I was just wondering.

 

Okay, so it is more how taught the strings will feel, and there could be a possibility of the bridge being pushed over.

 

I have never heard of that happening, But I am not a luthier so I guess I could ask a couple of luthier's if they have seen this happen.

[Les Paul Stop tail adjustmenbt]

Good morning all,

 

Over the years, I have owned many different Gibson guitars with the tuneomatic stop tail bridge.

I have always set the stop tail down tight to the body, as I like to bend strings and I want the downforce and I always assumed this is how it was meant to be done.

I had about 25 years of no Gibsons, but now that I once again have one, I set it up like always and yet, I see some players that raise the stop tail up off the body.

I also thread my strings through the stop tail, not wrap around it.

 

So my question to the group here is, what advantage is there to not grounding the stop tail?

[Les Paul Noise issue]

I've recently brought my first Gibson ( a Les paul). I noticed that there is a Hum that goes away when I touch the strings or any of the metal parts. I've checked all the grounds are connected (with a multimeter) and shielding the control and switch cavity but the sound still persists. Has anyone ahd the same issue?

 

I could send it back under warranty but Gibson are struggling to fulfill their orders here in the UK so I don't really want to if possible.It's a bit crazy because my strat through the same rig is dead quiet!

 

Cheers

 

Dan

 

Did you check for ground on the Bridge/Tailpiece?

[The Studio club]

Nice one indeed.

[The Studio club]

It seems it been a while since someone posted here, so I will throw mine in to show off my new girl....

 

She is a 2008 Alpine white with gold hardware and a ebony board. She was born on October 8th is seems, If my Gibson decoder ring is working right.

She must be one of the weight relieved models, as it weighs in at 7 pound, 12 oz.

Great neck, play effortlessly.

[Your opinion is needed!]

Wow........tough room here.

 

Okay, I will share my thoughts on this guitar.

Colors other then white would be good, Pelham Blue, Red and Black would look cool.

Like others here, I think the tremolo should be an option.

A two pick up version with a 4 way rotary switch (Neck, both in phase, both out of phase and bridge)

Tone and volume for both pick ups.

Nickel hardware.....gold as an option. (Standard nickel with two pick ups, Custom gold with the three pick ups)

Locking tuners.