I just got this Epiphone 6830E

[Emilyguitar15]

Made in Japan anywhere from 1970-1980. Tell me what you guys think. Hope this link works

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=130242387961

[TommyK]

Iconoclast is the resident expert on this. He posted this: ARIA MODELS

 

There's another pic posted on the above linked page of a Caballero like Epi of a smiliar vintage with fleur-de-lis looking tuner knobs. Odd looking to me but they appear to be original. This style seems more appropriate for a classical guitar than a folk, imNSho.

 

The model number is an Aria model number. This first bunch of Japanese built Epis were built by Aria after Norlin closed the Kalamazoo plant and took Epiphones off shore. The E suffix would seem to indicate Electric, but probably indicated "Epiphone" to keep their factory inventory straight. Interestingly, some of these first Arias used blue model number labels left over from Kalamazoo production. THey simply lined out "Union Made" and rubber stamped "Made In Japan" at the bottom of the label. After all these years, fading has set in and only a shadow of the black marker remains, leading some to believe these were, indeed built in Kalamazoo, MI. It would become the FT150. The upscale model of the square shouldered dreadnaught.

 

$150.00 is probably a fair price. There appears to be a bulge below the black plate on the back, which covers the screws that hold the neck on. This could be due to the neck block breaking loose from the soundboard allowing the block to tip forward along with the neck making action a mile high. Although, it could just be the lighting.

 

Check this: If the fretboard extension is not hovering 1/8" above the soundboard, but is rather touching the soundboard, The neckblock needs to be repositioned glued, and reinforced. And check that the binding along the side of the neck is parallel to the soundboard. This is another indication of a failed neckblock. Check this out right away. The fretboard extension can push the soundboard down until it cracks. It's hard to see this in the frontal views on the ebay listing.

 

I have a later version of your model model, albeit less fancy, the FT145SB. I had to repair it... with great success I might add.... I've posted the procedure here if you need it.

[Emilyguitar15]

Iconoclast is the resident expert on this. He posted this: ARIA MODELS

 

There's another pic posted on the above linked page of a Caballero like Epi of a smiliar vintage with fleur-de-lis looking tuner knobs. Odd looking to me but they appear to be original. This style seems more appropriate for a classical guitar than a folk' date=' imNSho.

 

The model number is an Aria model number. This first bunch of Japanese built Epis were built by Aria after Norlin closed the Kalamazoo plant and took Epiphones off shore. The E suffix would seem to indicate Electric, but probably indicated "Epiphone" to keep their factory inventory straight. Interestingly, some of these first Arias used blue model number labels left over from Kalamazoo production. THey simply lined out "Union Made" and rubber stamped "Made In Japan" at the bottom of the label. After all these years, fading has set in and only a shadow of the black marker remains, leading some to believe these were, indeed built in Kalamazoo, MI. It would become the FT150. The upscale model of the square shouldered dreadnaught.

 

$150.00 is probably a fair price. There appears to be a bulge below the black plate on the back, which covers the screws that hold the neck on. This could be due to the neck block breaking loose from the soundboard allowing the block to tip forward along with the neck making action a mile high. Although, it could just be the lighting.

 

Check this: If the fretboard extension is not hovering 1/8" above the soundboard, but is rather touching the soundboard, The neckblock needs to be repositioned glued, and reinforced. And check that the binding along the side of the neck is parallel to the soundboard. This is another indication of a failed neckblock. Check this out right away. The fretboard extension can push the soundboard down until it cracks. It's hard to see this in the frontal views on the ebay listing.

 

I have a later version of your model model, albeit less fancy, the FT145SB. I had to repair it... with great success I might add.... I've posted the procedure here if you need it.[/quote']

 

Question. What did you have to repair and how much did it cost? Thanks.

[TommyK]

Click Here >>>>> Repairing a broke neck Norlin Epiphone <<<<<

 

There's a picture of extreme damage that can be done. Mine was not this severe. It cracked the top, but I left it alone. Farther down at the bottom of the text is pics of the reinforcement I made.

 

The repair work cost me next to nothing as I did it myself. Take the instructions to a guit tar tech and have him give you a quote. I'd say an hour to hour and a half shop time would do it.

[Soupy1957]

There is definitely "wear" to the instrument, but if it plays well and sounds full, I think $150.00 may be a fair price....good luck with it!

 

-Soupy1957