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Finding a Luthier


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I've got an Epi SQ-180 S/N 1081637, Korean made, that I purchased new around 1991/2.

 

Great tone, nice feel, B string has never sounded quite right. (I've got the same problem with my Ovation Pinnacle)

 

The shop i bought them from had supposedly adjusted them years back, but the problems persisted, and I decided not to pay them anything else to adjust my instruments.

 

So now, years (Decades?) later, I'm starting to play again, a little more often. I want to get the instruments adjusted properly.

 

I'm well out of the loop of performers, and don't currently have any close friends who play.

 

So how do I go about finding the right luthier to work on my instruments?

 

 

Thanks

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I'm faced with the same issue of picking a luthier.

 

I'm in northeast Ohio and I found several on the internet in the area but of course, they all say they're the best. I will say that most of the ones I found have been in the business for many years.

 

Do a search on luthiers in your area and then I suppose talking to other players might give you an idea on the reputation of each one.

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Just like trying to find a good auto mechanic, finding a good guitar tech is not an easy task, and like finding a good mechanic, you get a recommendation from somebody, or it's a crap shoot. It's as simple as that. I, like you, have recently gotten back into playing after a (more or less) layoff of over 30 years. In the past, I knew almost nothing about guitar adjustment or repair. So, with the help of books and the Interweb, I've learned how to do many things, like nut replacement, saddle adjustments (acoustic & electric), truss rod adjustments and even electronics repair and replacement. Even if you don't attempt these things yourself, understanding them will help you to talk to and evaluate the expertise of a guitar tech.

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I was in the same boat a few years back and did the search thing here in Atlanta. Not being in the loop as you describe, I went in and talked to this guy that was going to do the work. Be sure to ask (if it is a shop) if you can talk to the guy that will literally do the work. We chatted and I displayed my emotions etc. to see if he was a fit. Naturally, all luthiers get that unless you are a famous musician. He seemed ok. The set up on my new Epi was less than favorable from the factory, but as all should do - get it setup to your needs regardless of factory settings.

 

Intonation was needed and a lower action. It was $60 bucks for the set up of which I was less than knowledgeable to check after the deed was done. I had a bone nut installed at the time as well. Next time I will do some things differently now that I have gained some knowledge to make me dangerous. #-o Knowledge is power.

 

Since the original set up, I researched YouTube and how to websites to gain knowledge. Forums like this one and others have great posts on this subject matter. Even how- to's and what equipment is best to use for the task at hand - including links to other resources.

 

In the near future I am going to do the setup myself and when I have it close to what I want - I will try another luthier if I can't satisfy myself with my tweaks. I will have them put it on the tuner (which will be better than what I have now) and demonstrate to me the intonation and tuning before leaving the guitar with them and when the guitar is ready to be picked up. A before and after guarantee in advance if you will [blush].

 

STAY AWAY FROM THE BIG BOX DEALERS. GO LOCAL. MAKE SURE THEY ARE A FACTORY AUTHORIZED REPAIR SHOP OR LUTHIER IF UNDER WARRANTY WHERE APPLICABLE.

 

You can also call them in advance and ask for some references. See if the guy that will work on your guitar can send you some before and after pictures if you are getting a repair. At least by now, they will know they are not talking to some hobbyist (like me) that has no clue of what is needed.

 

What gave me red flags - when I picked it up they started saying if you want if perfect...it will need - more money and we will need you to leave it with us for another week or two. In many cases this would be true but just the same... they should have called me and let me know so I could decide on getting the work then vs. having to be without my guitar again. When I pick something up, I expect it to work as it should vs. that crap of selling you up after the fact. Be sure to mention that as well when interviewing the luthier.

 

An example would be - fret leveling - not mentioned at the time when I requested the setup. You can check that yourself with a straight edge or tool from a luthier / parts website. A lot of the luthier websites have DIY videos and tips. The one I use (link below) even sends me news letters on how to fix things. Good reading even if not needed.

 

Here is the link - http://www.stewmac.com/?gclid=CMynxsKG66ECFUtX2god1X1TLg

 

One last ditty - see if there is a luthier school near by and contact them. See what they work on/teach and maybe you can take your guitar by and they fix it for parts if you don't mind an experienced luthier monitoring a rookie with your guitar. If the shoe fits... wear it. Surely they could recommend a local luthier.

 

Lastly, ask your potential luthier if you are not happy with the work after a reasonable time frame, what warranty do they offer on tweaks? I am not happy with the intonation and wasn't within a few weeks. I called them back and they said I would possibly need to pay for another set up or include it in an additional service not done at the time of my original setup, if that is what it will need to bring it into perfect intonation. A bunch of Crap, hence my quest for more knowledge. Good Luck.

 

Wow, a life experience in several paragraphs.

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Thanks for the responses, everyone. Y'all reminded me of the one time years ago I had any major work done - brought a banjo to a reputable store that had a luthier that came highly recommended. I simpy wanted the tuners replaced with Planetary tuners, and knew it wasn't cheap, but was willing to pay or the job.

 

Then the waiting started.

 

It turned out that the luthier worked in his own shop, not on site.

And his shop was an hour or two away.

In a cabin in the Adirondacks.

Without electricity.

Near a creek that had a tendency to flood.

And he basically worked on instruments so that he could afford to marijuana.

When he ran out of dope, he worked on the instruments, got paid, bought his stash, and stayed high until he ran out again.

(I have heard this anecdote from 10 different people over the years, one of whom used to work a the out-of-business guitar shop.)

 

I got the banjo back 6 months later - it was a terrific job, and the price was quite reasonable, but I never became a repeat customer at that place.

 

I did look at the work done by one guy at a shop in the area, and the work looks good, but... he does ALL of the work - he had 2 guitars on the bench, and about 30 lined up in cases, plus another 5 or six that needed extensive repair work. I asked what average turnaround for a complete setup is, and he said ti depends on what else he has that needs to be worked on- It could be a month, it could be longer - setups for instruments purchased at the store have priority (which I understand, and agree with). I didn't even ask about price, or if they have an extra charge for priority work.

 

There are a couple of other luthiers that I have heard both praise and horror stories about, from otherwise reliable people. And one that I've heard nothing but praise for, but he only works on other peoples' guitars in between custom builds (or repairs to guitars he has built.)

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Here's what I did:

 

Being a do-it-yourself (but not foolish) kinda guy I did some interweb research on lowering the action on an acoustic. I found that the most basic thing do do is remove the saddle and sand the BOTTOM on a flat surface.

 

So, I removed the saddle on the DR-500MCE and did just that. I was VERY conservative, for two reasons: one, I never did it before, and two...I have new, lighter gauge strings arriving tomorrow. I thought that I would install the new strings with the very slightly lowered setting first and see if that works for me. If not, I'll repeat the process.

 

I also lubricated the nut slots with pencil graphite before I refitted the strings.

 

I can tell a difference already, and there's no fret buzz...as I said I was conservative. The worst that could happen is that I would need to replace the saddle.

 

Now, for truss rods or fooling around with the frets I would leave to a good luthier for sure.

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