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What would you do with this?


adius

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This came to me a few years ago. I hope this is a re-paint because I can't imagine Gibson letting something like this go out the door. The pickguard is about the only item left on it as the electronics (pups too), tail piece and the nut are missing. The spade on the back is a curious addition and looks to have been inserted professionally.

 

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If I had any of those skills, I'd give it a go. We have a furniture stripper in town who does antiques but the thought of it makes me a bit uncomfortable as I don't have the skill or knowledge to repair binding if it was ruined in that process. Guess I could use it as a learning project after doing the research. My OCD would surely kick in. The inlay was done very well. I'll try to get a shot of the interior.

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Stripping the finish off a plywood guitar is not a trivial exercise, as it is VERY easy to damage the thin outer laminate. There are strippers you can use--carefully--that are designed specifically for use on fiberglass boats, but they might still attack the plastic binding. You would have to carefully mask the binding, and work as if you were excavating the crown jewels from a bed of C-4. I stripped a cherry sunburst off a Gibson flattop, but that was a solid top with plenty of meat left.

 

If you look inside the pickup cutouts, you'll see just how thin the outer ply really is. Whatever you do, you pretty much have to consider the guitar a write-off in terms of value. Is the spade inlay flush with the surface, or is it inset slightly?

 

Do you know how old the guitar is? The 175 is a nice mid-range guitar, but it is not much of a collector's item in any case, particularly with no hardware and a trashed finish, so you don't have much to lose.

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Stripping the finish off a plywood guitar is not a trivial exercise, as it is VERY easy to damage the thin outer laminate. There are strippers you can use--carefully--that are designed specifically for use on fiberglass boats, but they might still attack the plastic binding. You would have to carefully mask the binding, and work as if you were excavating the crown jewels from a bed of C-4. I stripped a cherry sunburst off a Gibson flattop, but that was a solid top with plenty of meat left.

 

If you look inside the pickup cutouts, you'll see just how thin the outer ply really is. Whatever you do, you pretty much have to consider the guitar a write-off in terms of value. Is the spade inlay flush with the surface, or is it inset slightly?

 

Do you know how old the guitar is? The 175 is a nice mid-range guitar, but it is not much of a collector's item in any case, particularly with no hardware and a trashed finish, so you don't have much to lose.

 

Appreciate your thoughts and right you are about that top. It is thin. That seals it for me. Since the neck is good, I'll just install some pots, humbuckers, switch, bridge, nut and tuners then call it good. The guitar is a 1959. I really didn't want to try the refin job. I call it a pumpkin burst. The spade is slightly below the level of the rest of the back so might have been cut? Doesn't matter. There's a fellow here who does hand wound pups that are killer so will buy a couple of his PAF's to support his work.

 

Wish I'd found this site years ago but am happy I found it at all.

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One thing I might wonder is what the wood looks like under that finish as it is now. As was pointed out the difficulties, it could explain why the guitar is finished as it is, as opposed to a clear finish or a standard burst finish.

 

I wonder if also, the spade on the back was a slick idea to remove buckle marks?

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Appreciate your thoughts and right you are about that top. It is thin. That seals it for me. Since the neck is good, I'll just install some pots, humbuckers, switch, bridge, nut and tuners then call it good. The guitar is a 1959. I really didn't want to try the refin job. I call it a pumpkin burst. The spade is slightly below the level of the rest of the back so might have been cut? Doesn't matter. There's a fellow here who does hand wound pups that are killer so will buy a couple of his PAF's to support his work.

 

Wish I'd found this site years ago but am happy I found it at all.

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Appreciate your thoughts and right you are about that top. It is thin. That seals it for me. Since the neck is good, I'll just install some pots, humbuckers, switch, bridge, nut and tuners then call it good. The guitar is a 1959. I really didn't want to try the refin job. I call it a pumpkin burst. The spade is slightly below the level of the rest of the back so might have been cut? Doesn't matter. There's a fellow here who does hand wound pups that are killer so will buy a couple of his PAF's to support his work.

 

Wish I'd found this site years ago but am happy I found it at all.

 

Absolutely the right call. All the replacement parts aren't cheap, but they are available. Have you identified it as a '59 by the serial number on the label, or what? If it has a neck anything like that on my '59 Historic ES 335, it is a great all-around neck shape. You probably won't know until you put the pieces together what kind of shape the neck is really in, but it's worth the gamble for $700-$1K in parts, depending on how "original" you go.

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One thing I might wonder is what the wood looks like under that finish as it is now. As was pointed out the difficulties, it could explain why the guitar is finished as it is, as opposed to a clear finish or a standard burst finish.

 

I wonder if also, the spade on the back was a slick idea to remove buckle marks?

 

HA! Will have to let that mystery remain for the next owner to solve. Hadn't thought about the spade as a belt buckle removal.

 

Putting this relic together for about $500 (I have a secret source) is worth the risk. I used to sell Gibby's and the 175 has always been a favorite. I like the idea of the pumpkin burst. he he he. Oh, the serial number was the give away. Well, that and the fact that the PAF's were missing.

 

Thanks again to all here.

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