Anyone managed to squeeze push pulls into a dot?

[mcgruff]

I'd like to change my dot to Jimmy Page wiring (coil taps, series/parallel, out of phase): has anyone ever managed to squeeze four push-pull pots into a dot, and if so, what type were they?

 

I found a good price for some Bourns pots here but I think they might to be too tall.

 

I could use toggle switches, I guess, but push-pulls would be much neater.

[Bluemans335]

Push-pulls fit thru F holes just fine, at least the StewMac ones do. I've done it many times. The first guitar I ever rewired was a Hamer Echotone that I put two push-pulls in. I currently have the 4 push-pull Jimmy Page system in a Sheraton and a couple Dots. It does get a little more snug when the F holes have binding, like on a Sheraton, but they'll still fit in.

 

Here's how I rewire 335's. I posted this here recently, but I'll do it again.

 

Tools:

- T-nut drivers, you should have these anyways. Pliers tear up finishes. I got a set of 3 from StewMac. A 'must'have'.

- 6" forcept with a curved tip.

- stiff plastic coated wire or aquarium tubing, to pull the pots back into place.

- It's best to have a fan (for solder fumes) and good lighting.

 

Steps:

- study the wioring diagram, no matter what you're doing, until all of it makes sense. Every part (pot, toggle, jack) has a hot and a ground wire. All the grounds are connected into one big loop. Every pot has a ground wire attached to the casing. All of the hots go to lugs on the pots.

- Do as much of the pre-wiring as you can on the push-pulls.

- lift off knobs using a washcloth; do not pry off with a screwdriver.

- unscrew the nuts on pot posts, and gently pull the pots up and out thru the F hole. Don't take out the toggle and jack unless you have to. Set the harness on a towel on the front of the guitar.

- only disconnect one pot at a time, and then attach the replacement pot. If you cut all the wires right off the bat, you may get confused on what they all are (I've seen guys do this and get hopelessly lost, and went downhill after that).

- do your wiring as normal, but give an extra couple inches of wire between everything, so nothing gets pulled tight on re-entry.

- test your wiring thru an amp while it's still outside the guitar; check for loose connections, shorts, mistakes, hum, etc.

- when the wiring is up-to-par, use the plastic-coated wire or tubing as follows: put it thru the pot hole, in the body, and up thru the F hole. Attach to the post and gently pull it into place. Using the forcept, you can hold the post, and put a nut and washer on it. I only need to do this with the neck tone pot, as it's way out there.

- for the other 3 pots, I put them inside the guitar and lift them into place with the forcept. I don't tighten anything all the way until all the pots are in place, so I have as much slack in the wires as possible. Always be sure not to pull any wires tight as you do any of this, as that can break connections, and often means you'll have to take everything out and trouble-shoot. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.

- test thru an amp again, before you put the knobs back on.

- when everything's a 'go' put the knobs on.

 

I rewired several dozens F hole guitars over the years, many with push-pulls, and have probably made every mistake you can. I highly advise that people do it right the first time.

 

I've tried mini-toggles, but they're very small (as the name implies) and harder to solder. I don't like them. Push-pulls leave the outside of your guitar looking the same.

[mcgruff]

Thanks bluemans335 :) Lot of useful info there.

[Bluemans335]

Let me know if I can help with anything.