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Firebird bridge


slk

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Took my 1964 Firebird III into a music store the other day as they wanted to see it. While looking it over one of the guys pointed out that the bridge did not have any adjustment set screws on the back side of the bridge. It is threaded for screws....I bought this guitar when I was 14, and no I never paid attention if they were ever there. The large screws are there to adjust the bridge up and down but the ones to move it forward or backwards are not there or never were from the factory. Did it or was it suppose to have them????

 

Steve

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I'm not sure I agree with your "tech". From the photo you posted in this thread, http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/114088-flat-wound-strings/page__p__1542479#entry1542479 , it seems clearly shown that the bass side of the bridge is spaced away from the mounting post. Due to forward string pressure, this is only possible if there is something in between.

 

The set screws are for the forward/backward adjustment of the bridge location for proper intonation. These set screws are "Allen" head, and recess completely into the bridge casting. Especially on an older guitar, you will not even see them with the naked eye looking at the back of the bridge. If you have the bridge off, you may see the business end protruding from the post side.

 

In any case.....

 

Yes, you should have set screws in the bridge for intonation adjustment.

 

These set screws are available at most any hardware store (Allen head set screws).

 

The set screws will be SAE specs in length and diameter (English sized, NOT metric).

 

The diameter size will be determined by the existing drilled and tapped holes in the bridge.

 

For length, I would measure the width of the bridge mounting ears where the screw goes through, and use that. In other words, if the set screw is threaded into the hole to the point of being flush with the inside arc. it would also not protruded out the back. This length would still allow for plenty of adjustment.

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Yes I have looked at some pictures of my vintage Firebird and they all seam to have the set screws. Question is with a more or less fixed bridge you can only adjust the intonation at (2) points. It is not like other model guitars where you can adjust it for every string. I understand the concept, but could it make a difference in sound the way Firebirds are made???? I am out to learn here so any comments are very welcome. I truly appreciate any help.

 

Just an old guy trying to relive a passion he had in the past

 

Steve

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you can only adjust the intonation at (2) points.

 

2 points are better than none. There are aftermarket individual saddle bridges made to replace these type "large post" bridges. The one we used in the 70's was the "Leo Quan Badass". Most of the aftermarket six-saddle bridges will work as a "pass-over" (with separate tailpiece, Maestro, etc), or a wrap-around (no separate tailpiece).

 

Back in the day, I had a '64ish Firebird III just like yours. I put the "Badass" bridge on it and eventually removed the Maestro and strung the bridge as a "wrap-around". The latter was my favorite configuration.

 

Here's a photo of mine with the "Leo Quan Badass" and the Maestro:

2325678604_aa4807100b_o.jpg

 

Now what again was your question?

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Without viewing a picture , I am assuming that the bridge is compensated ...correct? Should be able to get pretty good intonation between that and the 2 allen screws. I believe Gibson also now offers a compensated bridge with an unwound G as a thought.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well guys you are not going to believe this. Today I lifted the lid on the compartment inside my case and I have lots of old strings there as well. For what I do not know. Probably from the days I played in bands, and kept extra strings for quick replacement. But I found this little white envelope with an allen wrench and 1, only 1 allen screw for the bridge. Now that has had to have been in there since 1964 and I never paid attention to it in all of those years. Yea I know the cabbage cart left years ago. When you are a kid you just don't pay that much attention to those things. Now I have to figure out if I need to adjust the bridge or not?????

 

Steve

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I have watched a video on you tube about intonation and measuring the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, and then from there to the bridge where the strings rest and they say it should be the same. Ok I did that and I am about a 1/16 off on each side. On the high E the bridge need to move back which is no problem with the allen screws. On the low E it needs to move forward toward the neck. So the question is how do you go forward when it is already forward all it can go, unless you start filing the inside of the radius of the bridge where it wraps around the post.

 

I guess I should check it with pitch first just to make sure it isn't already right. To the ear it sounds alright, but I have old ears.....

 

Steve

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I guess I should check it with pitch first

 

YES, pitch is the way this is done, and make sure you do this check and adjustment with fresh, or "newish" strings. Also, with the "lightning bolt" bridge, you may find that "pretty close" may have to be "good enough".

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