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gibpicker

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Posts posted by gibpicker

  1. 23 minutes ago, j45nick said:

    You could say "opinions differ on the originality of the back." At the very least, as ZW says, the back has been re-finished. By the way, there should be no finish on the inside of the back of any Gibson flat top I have seen. High-end archtops yes, flat tops no.

    My gut reaction is that the back has been replaced. The back and side woods should essentially look the same.

    Yeah that was another thought, the back and sides look quite different. Uploaded a couple side pics to the album to illustrate that. Thanks for your thoughts.

  2. 2 minutes ago, zombywoof said:

    Based on your earlier post the fabric side supports alone say the guitar was built in the early-1950s.  The other thing I could not hep but notice is that there is quite a gap between the finger brace without the painters tape and the X brace.  But unless somebody moved or replaced it you would have to  lay that one squarely on Kalamazoo's doorstep.

    As to the back I do not have a good enough eye to determine between mahogany, sapele and such.  But I have never seen a finish on the back of a Gibson which looks like that on yours.  During this period Gibson was shooting PPG/Forbes lacquer which is the same stuff auto manufacturers were using.  They applied it in very thick even coats because within the first year alone it would lose half its thickness as it dried. 

    So, while I cannot make a call as to whether the back is the original or not it does look like if it is somebody has done something rather nasty to it such as stripped and refinished.  The absence of the center back strip though I have no answer for.  But I have owned an old Gibson which looked like a glue pot had exploded in it.    mean it was just slathered all over the back.  After my luthier had cleaned it up though you would never know a drop had been there. 

    This is one of those things though need to check in with a luthier, preferably one who knows their way around Gibsons.  It is the kind of call I would not be comfortable making based solely on photos.

    Thanks, Zomby. I swung by my luthier's shop earlier today for him to take a quick look, he was sure that the back was a replacement. Just wanted to get some additional thoughts here. The wood on the inside looks as new as the wood on the outside, so unless someone refinished the inside of the back (seems really unlikely) I just don't see how it could be original.

    The seller is adamant that he won't provide any sort of refund, doesn't believe the back is a replacement, etc. The guitar sounds pretty darn good so I wouldn't mind keeping it. And while I try not to think about resale value on a guitar, I'd take a pretty big hit if I ever sold this guitar and advertised it as having a replaced back. So just trying to figure out how I want to proceed.

  3. Following up on my LG-3 thread from last night, just want to make sure that my luthier and I aren't crazy. Does the back on this early 50s LG-3 look original? To us it looks much newer than the mahogany on the sides, is striped like a sapele/khaya/sipo type wood, and there's no center strip down the inside of the back (and no sign one was ever there). The finish on the back is also a satin, open pore type finish...don't think there would really be a way to have an open pore finish on a guitar that had already had pores filled, right?

    Pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/K1C8D735L2UdEzzQ6

  4. I recently purchased an early 50s LG-3 online - it's not in the greatest shape cosmetically (though I don't think it's to the point I'd call it a "player" either) but the seller described it as being in great shape structurally and not needing any work. I don't mind a guitar with some bumps and bruises, and I paid what I think is a relatively reasonable price in this crazy vintage market at just over $3k. 

    Fast forward to today when the guitar arrives, and I was a bit disappointed in what I received. The guitar was sold with a mention that the seller thought the back had been oversprayed - it did look like that was the case in the pics, but I didn't care because, well, it's just the back. Not something I'd ever see anyway. But when I inspected the guitar today, I realized that the entire back had been replaced. There's no center strip down the middle of the back, the wood looks way newer than the rest of the guitar, and I can see where wood chipped away from the sides when the binding was removed. I assume all of the back bracing was replaced, as well, though it at least looks like it was well done.

    Two other issues with the guitar:

    - The seller described the action as being set to modern spec - I assumed somewhere in the neighborhood of 3/32" (though I suppose shame on me for not asking for specific measurements). Turns out that the action measures in at about 9/64" at the 12th fret. There's a pretty good amount of saddle left so I think I'll be able to get action to a more than comfortable measurement, but obviously still a bit frustrating.

    - I took some pictures of the inside of the guitar to make sure the bridge plate and bracing looked ok. I was shocked to see that one of the side braces had a big piece of blue painters tape over it!! (picture attached here) I tried lightly jiggling it and there was no movement, and no rattling when tapping the top...but the tape might just be doing a good job of holding the brace in place. Not sure and I'm not a luthier so I don't want to mess with it. Also unclear what the two patches around it are for...no cracks on the top so they aren't cleats.

    So here's the thing...despite all of the above, the guitar sounds excellent. I honestly wouldn't mind keeping it despite the aforementioned issues/deception, assuming I'd be able to get a relatively large refund. So I'm curious what folks here think would be a reasonable amount to ask for/what this guitar is realistically worth. My initial thinking was to ask for around $700-$1,000 back...not sure if that's unreasonable, but I figure the whole back and back bracing being replaced devalues the guitar quite a bit. And it seems possible I'll need to get a brace reglued, get the guitar set up, etc. Thanks for any advice!

    IMG_0716 2.JPG

  5. 39 minutes ago, BluesKing777 said:

     

    A Fairbanks used would be about 3 times the price of a Waterloo used, wouldn't it?

    I, myself, want to play at least 12s or 13s, so the Kel copy wearing 11s max is out....

    No, Bill Collings hit the nail with my Waterloo WL-14 ladder braced....sound, playability, build quality, intonation...etc - I played it most of yesterday's playing - sounds older than my old ones!!!!

    So that is what I am getting at - it is great to have some vintage guitars but since Bill invented his range of Waterloo with nice, dry old sounds, you don't HAVE to buy vintage to have a great old sound.

     

    BluesKing777.

     

     

    Fairbanks go for around $6k new usually, probably closer to $5k used... meanwhile Waterloos are starting to get pretty pricey, I think the WL's are close to $3k new now while the WL-K, WL-S, etc are starting to get well over $3k. So don't think the price disparity is quite that dramatic.

  6. Appreciate the notes, everyone!

    16 hours ago, zombywoof said:

    I have always been a lucky S.O.B. when it comes to guitars in that I rarely have had to seek them out.  They find me.  I got my 1932 L1 when a friend who owns a small guitar shop several states away called me one day out of the blue and told me he had gotten a 12 fret L1 in and it was mine if I wanted it.   Buying one was not even on my radar but as this guy's word is as good as gold for me when it comes to guitars snagging it was a no brainer.   Plus, as he wanted a guitar I owned he was fine with working out a trade which cut down on the cash I had to lay out.

    Anyway, while a 12 fretter can always show up at one of the big sexy vintage guitar dealers, on Reverb, a forum marketplace, or whatever, I would think you would significantly increase your chances of latching onto one by hitting one of the major guitar shows.  

    Please pass some of that "lucky SOB" along to me! Good call on hitting the guitar shows, I've never been to one but maybe it's time to try one or two out.

    16 hours ago, tpbiii said:

    I have a 31 L-2 and a 39 HG-00.  They were both out, so I took their picture in a chair.

    1931 and 1939 guitars are pretty different.  31-32 are almost Martin like -- it was a transition period -- whereas the 1939 is a bit more of a blues engine.  The neck on my HG-00 is only a tiny bit larger than the L-2.

    EExFlOL.jpg

    Best,

    -Tom

    Beautiful guitars, and very helpful hearing from someone with an HG-00 and an L.

    15 hours ago, BluesKing777 said:

     

    Lots of luck buying an L1....

    Everywhere usually but since Covid also disappeared are the Waterloo 12 fretter Wl-12. Fabulous beasts, more available that L1s.

     

    Mahogany top WL-12Mh:

     

     

     Various woods:

     

    BluesKing777.

     

     

     

     

    Yeah, I owned a Waterloo WL-14X for a bit but it just didn't scratch the itch. Great guitar, but left me wanting more.

     

    3 hours ago, CJB said:

    Hey everyone, long time no see. This  thread got me out of the shadows. 
    a 12 fret L1 is a dream guitar for me.  I found a ‘poor man’s’ version last fall and I have been more content with with this beauty than anything else I’ve had. A 1940 Kalamazoo KG12 that was converted to x bracing 10 years ago. It has a huge neck that I absolutely love. And the tone is perfect. 
    I’ll see if I can add pics in a bit. 

    This is something I've been considering, there are a few 12 fret Kzoo's floating around right now, so I could pick one up and ship it off to Baxendale or someone else to convert it.

  7. Anyone have any recommendations for finding one of these 12 fret beauties? Been looking for a 30s L-1, or a 12 fret L-00, for quite some time but there just haven't been any out there for a while (I guess there's one 12 fret L00 on Reverb right now but $9k seems a touch overpriced). Been tracking the usual suspects in Reverb, eBay and a couple forums but no luck. Just curious if there are any shops or sites that might be worth tracking in addition to these.

    Also been somewhat considering an L-0 from the early 30s as there are a few floating around at more reasonable prices, but I already have an all hog Martin so not sure I want/need a second all hog guitar. Kinda curious how a converted HG-00 would compare to an L-1 as well, though not sure I can handle those huge necks.

  8. Thanks all for the thoughts! I ended up taking the plunge on one of the 50s J-45's. The more I thought about it, the more I realized I would keep asking myself "what if" if I'd gone with the J-185. The J-45 is what I've lusted after for quite some time. So sometime next week I'll have a beautiful late 50s J-45 in my hands! I'll follow up here once I have it. Thanks again for the posts.

  9. Looking for some opinions on a guitar purchase. I recently sold off a late 50s LG-2 - incredible guitar, but my other acoustic is an old Martin 00-17 and I've just been wanting something a little bit bigger to go along with it, and decided the Martin was the keeper of those two. I was initially dead set on a vintage J-45, but then I remembered playing an iteration of the newer J-185's a couple years back (it was before the Historic series had been introduced I believe) that was really a killer guitar. I think it might've been a TV model? I haven't been able to find one of the new J-185 Historic's to play, but they sound awesome from the sound clips I've heard. I know they are supposed to be excellent strummers, but not sure how good they are for finger picking. Also with maple back and sides are they noticeably brighter than something with mahogany? I wish I could remember all the nuances of the one I played better.

    On the flip side, I feel like the J-45 is the quintessential singer songwriter guitar (I'm a folk/singer songwriter type musician who plays unaccompanied about 90% of the time), and I have a line on two different ones from the mid-late 50s, have played both, and they're both excellent guitars and relatively fairly priced given the current market. I feel like a J-45 covers both strumming and finger picking about as well as a guitar can. I alternate between both with my playing, though I'm never really a heavy strummer, mostly just strum soft with a pick or using my thumb.

    Anyway, I know it all comes down to personal preference, but I think I'm most interested to hear from anyone who has played the new J-185's and what their opinion is on them as an all arounder. I know what the J-45's are, the unknown of the J-185 is what's throwing me at the moment. General encouragements to just make up my damn mind already are also more than welcome. 

  10. 2 hours ago, gibpicker said:

    Thanks all for the additional replies! After a few days of collecting more info, I ended up going with the early 40s L-00 from Vintage Instruments in Philly. I have purchased from them in the past so I expect it'll be a great guitar. Will definitely post an NGD once it arrives!

    So much for that...even though I bought it on their site, it had apparently sold just a little bit earlier. More decision making now I suppose...

  11. Thanks all for the additional replies! After a few days of collecting more info, I ended up going with the early 40s L-00 from Vintage Instruments in Philly. I have purchased from them in the past so I expect it'll be a great guitar. Will definitely post an NGD once it arrives!

    • Like 1
  12. 6 minutes ago, j45nick said:

    From the description, that guitar probably has a slightly more modern neck profile, with the "standard" modern nut width. Not exactly what a "slim taper V" neck profile would be. Not necessarily a bad thing.

    Specs look decent: sort to the L-OO equivalent of a True Vintage J-45. I would rather have a sunburst top, but the tuxedo version is pretty cool, and there are folks here who prefer that.

     

    Yeah I don't mind the different neck profile, I'm pretty flexible with that sort of thing, and I actually love the ebony finish. Kinda prefer it to the sunburst to be honest though I'd be perfectly happy with either.

    These are the two vintage ones I'm looking at.

    L-0: https://vintage-instruments.com/shop/guitars/flat-top-acoustics/gibson-l-0-guitar-1939/

    L-00: https://vintage-instruments.com/shop/guitars/flat-top-acoustics/gibson-l-00-guitar-1941-42/

  13. Has anyone played one of these? Adi top, hide glue construction, sound clips on YouTube sound pretty good. I've been looking for a good vintage L-00 but prices are just so insanely high. I have a line on an early 40s L-00 and a late 30s L-0 that are in my price range (both are right around $3.5k), but then came across this limited edition 30s model. Over $1,000 less than both of the vintage ones I'm looking at and seems to be built pretty well. Can't play any of the three unfortunately. Any opinions? 

  14. I have an opportunity to buy a 72/73 B-25 at a really low price. It's in great shape, has had the ADJ bridge fixed which I like...but I know some of the acoustics in the Norlin era had double X bracing. Is that only true of the dread sized guitars? Or would an early 70s B-25 have double X bracing as well?

  15. I currently have an Epi Masterbilt AJ500M that I really love, but I’m looking to add a Gibson dreadnought to my stable. But as luck would have it, every guitar shop anywhere near me is shut down so instead of playing a bunch of guitars, I’m trying to make a decision based off of YouTube videos, past playing experiences, and hopefully some advice from this great forum. 
     

    As mentioned I really like my AJ500, and ultimately what I want is something with a similar tone but just, well, upgraded. I know the AJ has a longer scale but not really sure what Gibson it would ladder up to tone wise. I’ve played a number of J45s over the years and am thinking that likely be the one to go with, but am curious about the other models I have less experience with. Have heard a lot of great things about J15s, though I worry they might be a bit too warm. I really like the crispness I can hear from the J35s, but have heard they can get tinny when you dig in strumming. Been a while since I’ve played a Hummingbird but I also remember them having a nice sound. Any opinions on what might be a good fit?
     

    In terms of use, I’m looking for something that’s a great strummer - I don’t really flatpick and have an old LG-2 that I do most of my fingerpicking on. I play a good mix of solo “singer songwriter” shows and low key folk full band shows (acoustic, lead electric, soft drums, bass). Looking forward to any thoughts, thanks. 

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