Guitar@OZ (got a name?):
You might be interested in putting some metrics to the neck set and action, for your own edification:
1) Verify (and possibly adjust truss rod to attain) a reasonable neck relief. Capo at first fret, hold down a string at 15th fret, and see that there is a slight gap, about the thickness of a high E string, between the string and the top of the 7th or 8th fret. If there is no gap at all, stop. The neck could be back-bowed. You should have at least a slight gap, up to .010" is typical, but even .015" is not exessive.
2) Leaving the capo on 1st fret, measure the space between low E string and top of 13th fret to nearest 1/64".
3) Measure from top of bridge to bottom of low E string at front of the saddle, to nearest 1/64".
The "ideal" is a saddle height twice the 13th fret string height. E.g. if the 13th fret value was 6/64", then 12/64" or 6/32" at the saddle for the same string is "ideal." However, saddle heights considerably lower, 75% or even 50% of ideal, is typical and not considered a problem by many. But when when it approaches 50% (e.g. 6/64" in this example, or equal to the 13th fret value) or lower, it is a definite candidate for a neck reset.
Note that this method is a more precise proxy for the common method of laying a straightedge on the frets and seeing where the edge hits the bridge. "Ideally" the edge just touches the top of the bridge or base of the saddle (assuming the bridge hasn't been shaved!) which is equivalent to saddle height = 2x 13th fret string height. Simple geometry at play here.
Now you see why shaving a saddle is a way to cheat and "restore" proper neck angle!