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Steven Lister

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About Steven Lister

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    bleu toute la nuit

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    near the crossroads
  1. Fare-thee-well forum brothers and sisters. Open and read the "About Me" comments if interested.

  2. All things, even the good things, eventually end. The question is: "Are we better now than before 'it'?" Yes, I am. As the demands of my music life have increased, time spent on the forum has waned. Now, another crossroads is passed and I have happily chosen the path of musician. But the contracts that provide also bind. And true to life's bittersweet moments of growth, I must now say "fare-thee-well" to my Epi brothers and sisters. A few final words in sinc...

    1. Steven Lister

      Steven Lister

      My remarks won't fit in this box, so open/read the "About Me" tab if interested.

  3. Given RTH's misstatements of my opinions maybe I need to take a moment to clear the air: Nearly every question posted asking, “fake or not?” returns a majority of “fake” replies. Frequently reference is made to how flooded the secondary marketplace (eBay, Kijiji, etc) is with fakes. I don't believe either is generally true. One can imagine a few knock-offs by a guy in a dusty garage somewhere, but a flood of good fakes would require a virtual logistical impossibility --- high dollar equipment, large facility, large stockpiles of wood and hardware, and operational mobility to avoid discovery. But if I'm wrong, and the ghosts really do exist, then my scenario explains how it could function and kept undercover. Flat out I have said over and over “I do not have any proof” --- merely an explanation of circumstantial numbers. Never, ever have I suggested in post(s) that Epi is complicit in any way in the Epi 3rd or EpiMO scenarios (or I would have been banned -- and rightly so – to outer Mongolia until 2525, and that obviously hasn't happened). My scenarios do suggest that Epi needs to review procedures and tighten security at its factories to prevent illegal trade and I have said as much. Further anyone reading into my opinions notions of Epi-conspiracy or Epi-bashing are notions purely of their own doing because I do not hold those opinions or agree with them. The gtgtgt supplied photos appear to me to show an example of an Epi produced guitar that was made-over to appear to be something different from what it was when it left the factory. He says he bought it (“from a trunk” changed later to “on eBay”) at a great low-low price. Okay. I hope it plays great and that he's happy with his bargain. Worst case is we're talking a few quid, guineas, dollars, lira, etc. here. Maybe being burned once trying to score a gem of an Epiphone at below dealer cost will ultimately prove to be a good lesson to some. ...oh and RTH, I'm all for peace, love, and understanding! Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on
  4. The serial number cannot be legitimate. Proof? It's apparent to those who've researched Epiphone's numbering methods based on year, model, etc. The other issue is less obvious and, as you alluded, it cannot be confirmed from photos alone. Now I detest fraudsters and will not make further comment that might be used to steal value from Epi players. That is a more valuable service to this site that trying to "show off" knowledge, am I right? BTW what have you done with Robin the Hood? I miss that guy who used to share and discuss views instead of scoffing at opinions not in line with his own. You don't see me blasting away at your Wiki site (yes it has errors) on this forum. Errors and all it provides another resource that overall is good and adds to the Epi knowledge base. Who of us is perfect? So congratulations on your Wiki and while others may like the new, harsher RTH, I miss ol' Robin the Hood. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on
  5. WELCOME to the forum CIG! VJr head/chasis mount screws are metric: 5mm diameter x 3cm long, coarse threads (I don't have a pitch gauge but it's the coarse, not fine, pitch) Phillips safety head with small diameter (approx. 10mm) flat washer Any good hardware or auto parts vendor should have this common size. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  6. @midiman56 --- hey brother, how's Vegas without a Sahara? Your post brought up a common misunderstanding about guitardater --- that site never updated its database to include Epiphone serial number sequences after 2009 (when Epi switched to the all numeric serial and 2-digit factory I.D. Number). The site returns a “not recognized” for all searches using these serials. I'll PM PeteR about posting an update to the factory I.D. Thread. @Barcham --- spot-on description of guitardater site's shortcomings @ triple gt --- we don't know you yet, so my comments are “cautious” 1. Your guitar is not legitimate – but at the same time it's not likely an out-and-out fake: – it is a pseudo-Epiphone guitar, i.e it never sold through a dealer but it's origin is Epi-ish – could be an “Epi 3rd” but looks to me more like yet another new sub-specie, an “Epi make-over” or “EpiMO” for short (hey y'all, I spot 'em I get to name 'em --- ha, ha, ha) “What is a made-over,” you ask? It's was a low-end Epi when it left the factory, but then a scammer changes certain of its features to make it appear to be a higher-end instrument to sell at a profit (e.g. a legit LP standard becomes a “made-over” '59 LP goldtop with a little new paint, decals, and tweaking). 2. It is a decent mimic – but the problems I see are different from what has been mentioned in this thread (those who know Epiphones can see what I'm talking about upon real close inspection) – and lead me to conclude that your photos are most likely of an EpiMO attempt. 3. Given the photos and the your tone of your posts, I think you're trying to mine this site for expertise for some ill purpose. I do hope that over time you prove me wrong. 4. Bought out of “trunk of car.” Please! You know it's shady (fake, stolen, divorce-swindle, etc). Buy from an EPI/Gibson dealer or it's BUYER BEWARE! Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on
  7. Another thought = = = amp kits You don't have to build them..., you just have to know somebody I finally took this route and have a killer amp for acceptable $$ (around $1,600 all-in for a tweaked custom plexi that I paid a cohort to build -- I could have done it for even less but anybody who has read my posts over the years knows I hate building gear). Link here to one good source if interested (there are others) ---> amp kits link BTW the link is to the "tweed" line b/c I thought it the best match for Altair, but other kit versions are there just click away. <and don't panic Epi dudes, I still love and use my VJr. V3s -- just not exclusively> Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on
  8. I doubt that any amp under 500 Euro will do everything you want --- that's the trouble with low budget gear, its a big compromise. To stay under your price, consider either used or a bottom end "mod-to-suit" unit (like a VJr. V3) plus pedals/effects. Plug into everything that comes your way (okay, maybe not everything, use some judgement - ha) and have fun with your search. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  9. What if: the wood used is so bad that it breaks a high % of time no matter what the packing? Wouldn't that explain the "why"? I really don't believe that is true. But, given that other fragile items (TVs, glass, etc) ship from China and most arrive okay in styrofoam, this is beginning to look like the type of "problem" that has an obvious but unspeakable answer. Ruttin welcome to the forum..., maybe some commiserating will ease the pain Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  10. ...or maybe "Why does this keep happening?" Let's put it to Jim R directly and see if he cares to comment. Manufacturers must lose a small fortune replacing these and why...? It's no mystery at this point that shippers ape handle the goodies, so why do companies still ship without proper headstock support Guitars should be detuned and packed with soft foam wrapped headstocks in hard cases. Anything less is just asking for what is shown here. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  11. I'll try to assist (but it's after a long show so I could have this bassakwards): -- higher gain pre-amp valves give more clean headroom and mellower tone -- lower gain power valves distort faster for dirtier tone. It sounds counter intuitive at least I think that's why I remember it that way but double check before buying. RSDx has the brand thing right -- Ruby (and Groove Tubes and xxxxx...) are just rebranded. They don't manufacture but they do charge more! Labels don't say what the valve will do --- that depends on how it was made materials etc. and in any case you need the numbers to know ballpark performance (the rest depends on each particular amp). BUT if you buy from a good dealer (I'll recommend Virginia Tube Audio b/c they do it for me) they'll test the valve and can/will give you the specs and sell you any brand by the specs if you ask them. Hope that helps. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  12. Clean(er) headroom is so easy with the VJr. A 2 valve change --- no soldering required. Swap your preamp valve for a Tung Sol gold pin 12AX7ECC803S or go even cleaner with a 12AT7. Try a JJ EL84 in the power valve socket. Other brands can work also but these have proven clean results with several EPI forum VJr users. Want to clean it up even more? -- plug in a Danelectro EQ peddle (incredibly cheap $25). Still want more? -- do the C4 mod -- no cost, just cut the C4 capacitor connection to the board. You can always just solder it back if it's too clean :blink: The Bit Mo mod seems like such a crude hack to fix a simple headroom issue (if that's your only concern). Luck to you DiveBand (I empathize completely with your screenname) and WELCOME. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  13. If you power-on this valve amp without a speaker load, you are in serious danger of instantly frying an OT. Count your blesings if yours is still okay. By all means plug a speaker in before power-up again. There has been a valve can/retainer rattle problem reported on VJr. Try removing the spring loaded wire retainer and the tin can from the valves. Try replacing the valves with known good ones. Something could be loose inside and there have been noises reported coming from a bad valve (usually the EL84). Aside from that, check/tighten all screws holding the transformers (and anything else) on the board. If you still have roar then you'll likely need a voltage tester and skills to sort it out. Be careful in there --- voltage is high enough to put out your lights if you grab onto the wrong circuit BE SAFE ---- USE WOOD CHOPSTICKS to prod any suspect component! Luck to you and WELCOME to the forum. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  14. 5000 posts but 4899 in forum games..., yer kidding, right? And may I add ---- now with these lame Good Conduct/Reputation scores..., ...just more forum politics steeenckin' on our boots. None of it means nothing --- each post must stand or fall upon the content therein. Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
  15. If what you're really trying to say is this is proof that "Epiphone knows its guitars are crap" ---- you're pizzin' in wrong pool Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on B)
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