iansmitchell
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Posts posted by iansmitchell
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store.guitarfetish.com
It fits them.
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Masonite is sawdust and glue. Note that some early Telecasters were made of pine.
Oh, so closer to MDF than plywood?
And I knew that.
Leo fender picked woods on price NOT tone.
People think alder's so great, that's just luck of the draw by leo.
But thanks for bringing the info to the rest of the forum.
P.S.
Wouldn't it be either an esquire or broadcaster if it was an early telecaster?
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Hmmmmmm... Thats interesting
I thought so too.
They said knotty pine was the best.
It's $4/foot at my local lumber yard...
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Isn't masonite just plywood?
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Ian' date=' CA's guitars don't have steel frames, nor do they have truss rods - they apparently don't need them. You might want to take a look at their web site and see what they're all about. http://www.compositeacoustics.com/
Quite interesting....now if I could just play one....[/quote']
I'm not saying theirs require the engineering I thought up...
Also, if you have no truss rod, you can only intonate with one guage of strings...
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Question Ian...
How difficult would it be to add weight to the body with another substance?
Carbon fiber is strong in tensile strength(like rope), but in impacts it's not incredible.
To support extra weight, you'd have to either add layers, increase tension, or both.
Extra tension can change tone, which can be used to improve sound, but isn't incredibly easy to calibrate.
The substance you'd want to use to add weight shouldn't be detrimental to tone.
Solid steel frame and carbon fiber sides, top, and back, may be enough to balance out your basic acoustic, without having to "fill" anything. Tension could then be used to change tone, something formerly only possible by changing the wood in the guitar itself. A rotary tension knob at the back of the neck, could be used for such a purpose.
Now, in achtop hollow, semi-hollow and solid body guitars, more layers of fabric, or different carbon construction altogether(liek that used in carbon car hoods), would be required to achieve proper feel and profile, and the ability to change tension for tone would likely be lost.
Fully hollowbodies would require something like what's used in car hoods, thicker, more rigid layers of carbon fiber, in order to keep shape. These would hence probably need different kind of necks to attain comfortable weight balance.
Semi-hollows would probably still have to have wooden center block, even if the wings were made of carbon fiber instead of laminate. The necks would still be able to be made of wood, albeit lighter tuners would be needed for balance. These are probably the most easily engineered.
Solid bodies pose the hardest challenge for carbon-based construction, they would likely have to be built from the ground up with the intention of being used as instruments..
The technology is all there, in theory, but as we all know, electric guitars aren't the fastest-moving technology. Hell, most of our stuff hasn't changed since the 60's.
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Carbon fiber is pretty damn cheap.
Cast a frame and put in a neck, I think the body alone for an acosutic would be about 60 for the fiber and maybe 25 for a solid steel frame to mount the neck on. The weight would be annoying as hell cause the neck would outweigh the body 2-3 times depending on quantity and composite of the metal frame.
To make a whole solidbody guitar, that's a more difficult issue, it's not as easy to use pre-engineered, mass-produced stuff there.
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well if they're really cheap' date=' then they might as well use pine :- [/quote']
Some violin makers have in recent years seen pine to be among the finest tonewood for upper midrange and high sounds, while yielding the least nasal tones.
So it wouldn't be the worst thing, really.
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No' date=' it is softer than alder. Grained on the surface like mahogany, but soft enough to shave with a knife, rather than splinter. It looks like any old white punk wood, but it is not brittle like the firs or spruces can be, i.e., it doesn't chunk under a blade like a lot of stuff. I think it is scrap wood of the same asian "mahogany" stuff the top and back were made out of. The outside 2 pieces and the center piece are definitely red mahogany, and even though glued together from 6 pieces of wood (not all of which are the same wood) any lawyer could say "solid mahogany body" with a straight face because there is no plywood (or MDF), and it is definitely solid and it definitely has mahogany in it![/quote']
Basswood maybe?
Agathis?
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Gibson uses Honduras mahogany pretty much exclusively. They wouldn't be caught dead using the Indonesian stuff.
Gibson only states on certain models(i.e. custom shop) that they use hunduran there.
If you ask me, I think they've largely switched to african mahogany at this point in time, if not actually resorting to asian suppliers.
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What is mdf ? Wow... faking an epiphone would be like making fake 1 dollar bills wouldn't it ??
More like fake 600 dollar bills...
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Buy a new Gibson Baldwin LP for what they sell' date=' $99 ?
That's probably the level of workmanship and materials you're looking at on these fakes.
Although the Gibson Baldwin might even be solid wood or veneer, instead of particleboard like some of the fakes.
[/quote']
Or MDF
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Hmmm...
Not sure whether to go new or used...
I kinda liek the idea of totally going mad on a new one...
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Switch*****..
Haha.
Might actually use that.
Custom trussrod cover would be just plain awesome to put that on....
Oooh, I was just thinking, would a B-50 import bigsby tailpiece be too much?
It just sounds kinda cool...
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Thats correct....I used that diagram because it was the closest thing I could find and could not draw one last night. But yes the key is in wiring the 3 way without linking the center tabs to give you the extra break function......I thought it was kinda clever.....
VERY clever.
I hope to do this when I get some time and post a whole thread about the wiring job.
What should I call the guitar?
Junior from hell?
Frankenjunior?
Lol.
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I would guess that you are using this SD diagram as an illustration of the way the switchcraft
3-way should be wired. In this diagram ' date=' all it's doing is lifting or connecting, the ground to the red/white (the end
of the windings for the N-S coils for SDs),which is what we discussed originally. ( I removed my original posts. )
Blk = start of N coil= hot Grn = start of S coil =gnd
So in the split mode, the S coil (actual reverse wound coil) is grounded out on both ends (wires) and the North
is used as the single coil.
To do this, the center contacts on the switchcraft 3-way need to be separated and we get as you say:
1. humbucker
2. Split (south coil grounded out)
3. Kill (ground applied to the 3-way contact that serves the other non-existant p_up. [/quote']
Hmmm...
Sounds complicated, but I'm SURE it'll be easier when I've altuall got soldiering iron in-hand and am looking at where the wires go, etc.
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Okay, now that I know the wiring, what pickup should i use?
I'm leaning toward either Rockfield Select Wound Custom or a fat ***.
Both have 4-conductor wiring.
but I've heard alot on here about GFS pickups, what would you guys suggest?
I'm looking for (ideally) a P-90 tone tapped, and something good for blues and hard/classic rock on HB.
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OK I got a few minutes and this is doable....red and white are together on on one contact up it's humbucker' date='middle it's single coil and down it's kill. So you have red and white together and ground on one side and black and pos vol control on the other side......I started second guessing myself
It's very much like this but with a second break position for the kill function. And you don't connect the center contacts like a standard LP switch![img']http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p64/layboomo/1hum_1vol_1tone_split.jpg[/img]Hmm, I don't know huge amounts about electrical wiring-type stuff, bu it certainly looks and sounds right!
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Yes' date=' it can be done, and you end up with humbucking, tapped, killed.
Cool idea; let me know if you have trouble figuring out how it's wired. [/quote']
Well, it'll probably be my first wiring job, depending on whether or not I wanna change the Pickups on my dot for a P-90 (or different brand P-90, liek a mean 90) and a '57 (or similar) anytime soon.
How much soldering is required, and what variety of soldering gun should I buy?
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The way the switch is wired' date=' you can't really use it as a kill in the mid position..it's
ON(Neck) On (BOTH) on (Bridge)..so it's not intended as a Gretsch style kill switch..
Gretsch use a separate switch for that and the wiring is a bit different from Gibson.
What I use for the push pulls is Hipshot o-ring metal knobs . They are sort-of Gretsch
style, but have 3 o-rings..can't slip on those..even after eating KFC.[/quote']
Well I'm not so suer how the wiring would go, and since there's not enough pickups to blend signal, who wouldn't the middle just do one, the other, or nothing?
Hmmmmm...
Also, I would be doing so van halen-style fast kill switching, which makes push-pull a LITTLE impractical.
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Yes' date=' bang on there. On my LP project (the Legacy), I ran 4 wires over to the push-pulls
(tone pot have the push-pulls only) and did the coil splitting. You still need the 3 way to select
neck- combined-bridge, so you don't want to mess around with the wires to the 3 way.
However, I did add a separate mini-toggle for phase inversion and
it's got a "kill position" in the middle position..but that's only because that's all
I had at the time.
The mini toggle is ON/OFF/ON. Stew-Mac sells those. (#1221).
It's a bit Gretsch style (kill switch), but some like it. The toggle would have to
go in the control cavity, and that means drilling a 1/4 hole for it. [/quote']
Well since it's a 1 pickup guitar, there's only 2 knobs. I'd be putting in a selector switch for the coil tap or regular bucker, and since you can't run both at once, one of the positions would be fine for a nice killswitch.
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Buy a couple of push-pull pots and save yourself the trouble.
But how would that work as a killswitch?
Plus I REALLY like the felling of using the switch, sweaty hands+pulling=NOT WORKING.
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If I were to say, take a newer les paul junior and an aftermarket(since stock doesn't) humbucker with 4- conductor wiring, Could I use a 3-way swith so it went Humbucker-none-coil tap or coiltap-humbucker-none?
Thanks.
It's very much like this but with a second break position for the kill function. And you don't connect the center contacts like a standard LP switch![img']
roller bridge for a Sheraton? (SOLVED FOR REAL THIS TIME)
in Epiphone Electrics
Posted
I used it on a dot. But they're direct replacements.