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Everything posted by Dannyboyee82

  1. Afternoon people. I just pre ordered one of the new 2016 Firebirds.. At that price, who could resist? I've been trawling hundreds of pages ever since to try find out some clear specs. Some places say it comes with a hard case, others say a gig bag. Most spec sheets say 'traditional' Firebird pickups. Are we to believe that they are putting in actual Firebird pickups or is this just sales jargon for the usual ceramic suspects? I am trying to see where they are cutting corners in production to price them so low (£849 compared to last year's £1299), a gig bag would be a good option for cutting cost.. But a Firebird in a bag? It doesn't quite sit right with me. Does anybody have any thoughts or are there any owners here? I know people have them now in the US.. I'm in the UK, my shipment doesn't land until the first week of November. Some of the new Gibson's have landed already, but no Firebirds yet. Edit: sorry about the spam posting, I did this from my phone and it would not load!
  2. A 5751 is a low gain alternative to a 12AX7/ECC83.. it probably would tame your amp a little and make it a bit smoother. They're pretty expensive pre amp valves you have there.. if it works for you then why not. Glad your MV mod worked out ok.
  3. Just to let you know, the amp now sounds like a beast with the MV mod. I had it cranked last night and wow, what a difference.. driving that preamp certainly makes this amp come alive.
  4. Oh.. one more thing.. if you want to hear what my amp sounds like (before the MV mod at least) go here http://www.myspace.com/operationkinomusic That is my band.. I'm the only guitarist, the BC 30 volume was cranked to about 2-3 o'clock with the EQ settings I mentioned in last post and on class A/B with Clean channel, I'm playing a Strat apart from on 'Hold My Breath' which I used an Explorer.. no pedals (the Big Muff was too noisy to record) so all you are hearing is the tube saturation. The tubes are.. Output: 2 x Svetlana Winged C V1 and 2: JJ ECC83S V3,4,5: EHX 12AX7 (stock) Rectifier: Sovtek 5AR4
  5. Hey Mj, Ok.. this morning I had chance to take a look inside and get some snaps of what my amp tech has done. You can see that the pot itself is a variable resistor and I have given you close ups of where you need to wire it up. It is shielded wire, and I assume it will be a linear pot. If you can handle getting beneath the PCB (I'm a little ham fisted when it comes to things like this, I can wire up a guitar.. but this is a little too intricate for me!), then have a go.. these photos should give you a good idea of how to go about it. Your recording sounds good, the only thing I would do differently is the EQ, I spent a few months playing this amp with the bass maxed as you are.. but now I have it around 2 o'clock for both strat style and humbucker guitars. I'd have the treble around 10 o'clock (strat) or 2 o'clock (humbucks) and mids between 12 and 2 o'clock for both strat and humbucks.. this is on class A or A/B and with the interactive EQ. Oh, and for the drive channel I have the second mid control around 2 o'clock, that seems to balance the two channels out. At higher volumes you will find you need to back off the bass from here and maybe push up the mids a little.. it gets too woofy in a band situation. With the MV mod, you can get some nice tube saturation at bedroom volume and even some harmonic overlays. I'm about to test it out for real tonight though, we have band rehearsal tonight.. I shall report back with my results of what it sounds like cranked. With a little tweaking this amp is really, really nice. It takes pedals really well, I use a Big Muff Tone Wicker most of the time.. with a cranked amp, that thing sounds sweet. I have just ordered a HBE Germania from PGS as well. Hope this is helpful. Danny
  6. Hey Mj.. The time difference is obviously the reason why I have not replied.. it is now 8:30am here and I'm about to leave for work. Firstly, for some reason I cannot view your photos or listen to your recording. It says that the page is unavailable or whatever. Secondly, you don't need to remove the stand by switch to accomplish the mod. I assume you have been reading the post by another forum member Jefrs? He wanted to get rid of the stand by switch anyway, I would recommend keeping the standby in.. although the argument for and against the standby on this amp is open for debate, at least you can have the option by leaving it in. If you don't want to use the standby switch, just leave it in 'play' mode permanently. You should mount the master volume pot on the chassis by drilling a hole for it. If, like me, you have limited knowledge of working inside amps, you should take it to an amp tech. I know that to do this job you need to remove the printed circuit from the chassis and this process involves de-soldering various components. This was not a job I would have wanted to do myself, so I took mine to a guy that builds and repairs amps. He charged me £5 ($8) for components and then his hourly rate on top.. included in the bill for components were a load of replacement resistors and capacitors for the reverb stage (a whole other story). What I can do, when I get chance, is to open mine up and send you some photos of the mod.. if you're feeling brave enough!
  7. Hi there.. I have just modded my BC 30 with a master volume mod, let me tell you.. it is exactly what this amp needs. In answer to your questions.. 1 - Buy some DECENT tubes, there is NO POINT putting in substandard tubes.. I would recommend Svetlana Winged C's for output, Sovtek 5AR4 for Rectifier, JJ ECC83 for Pre-amp and Reverb.. leave in the EHX 12AX7 for PI. If you're still not happy, try swapping the speakers for different ones. I'm going to put some Greenbacks in mine soon. 2 - Not sure about where you would buy the parts from in the States, I'm from the UK, but there is a post PI master volume mod - you need to swap out R39 for a 1 meg variable resistor with the pot fixed to the chassis. With the new pot wide open your amp will be as it was before the mod, but now you can control preamp gain with channel 1 volume and control the output volume with the new 'master volume'. It works really, really well. 3 - You should have got the manual when you bought it? It isn't very good, it has very few basic details. If you are after a schematic, PM me. 4 - I answered this with question 1, THERE IS NO POINT replacing the tubes in there already for cheap ones.. you will need to spend a bit if you want to see results. I don't know how much you pay for tubes over there, but in the UK I spent around £70 replacing mine.. about $110 in your money. Hope this helps.
  8. Well, I did it.. C6 and C5. Luckily I already knew about discharging my amp Papa, but thanks for the heads up! My opinion is that it has made the amp way too dark, I don't find the EQ more tweak-able at all, in fact it has limited the range of the EQ significantly. Playing a humbucker guitar such as I do, with the neck pickup now sounds awful. I'm going to replace the caps this weekend.. does anyone know the value of the C5/6 caps?
  9. Hi there.. Just wondering.. with the cap mod, by 'cutting', what do you mean? Snip one leg with wire cutters? Both legs? De-solder completely? I've been reluctant to do this so far as I'm afraid it will make my SG and Explorer sound too dark. But I'm getting too curious now, especially after reading other people's feedback after doing it. I'm gonna try it this afternoon, as soon as I hear about how people are doing it! Thanks in advance. Danny
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