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About headlost

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  1. Hi Mike! You may also subscribe and post on the SteinbergerWorld forum, and you should have the serial numbers of those guitars at least, anyway after all these years it may be quite difficult to trace any of those... Good luck, cheers, JPB
  2. Yes... If it's true what a lot of people say, it seems that the brands bought by Gibson are bound to a low profile existence, until some day they're gone... All for the LP's and SG's long life sake, anyway who on Earth needs a modern guitar, when one may own a "classic"? ;-) Cheers, JPB
  3. Hi Eagle! Thanks, I went to search that brand and all paints seem to be acrylic, which usually do end peeling off when applied on the PU undercoat (already happened to me with another guitar)... Cheers, JPB
  4. Hi! Thanks for your response, but I have no exact idea on what is "car plan satin off the gun", do you mean it was a sprayable black poly satin finish (no matt varnish needed)? Could you please tell the brand and reference? Is it of the two components kind? Thanks, cheers, JPB
  5. Hi! Oh I see, and also recall how you were willing to shave the neck of your SS-2F, so these data came too late for a comparison... :-) Unless you'll take the measures as it is now, just to see the differences... Could you please tell me about the matt black finish you've used for the neck? I need to touch up this Transcale at some places and have no cue about the paint/varnish to use, except that it's a rather slightly brownish matt black, if we can say so, and it must be PU for sure... I'll keep waiting for seeing those new photos, thanks, cheers, JPB
  6. Hi! Well, here are the measures for Transcale neck: Fret Width (mm) Depth (mm) 0 42.3 21.9 2 44.4 22.4 12 51.8 25.5 22 56.2 - 24 56.7 - This is a pre-production guitar so I cannot be sure about these measures being the same on later production units. In the case of the SS-2F, only the measures for the 0, 12 and 22 frets will be needed for comparison. Cheers, JPB
  7. Hi again, Eagle! Yet about that Synapse guitar, neck width subject, could you please measure this at the zero and 22nd frets on your SS-2F? I supose that you'll have calipers for getting accurate measures, to the tenth of a millimeter is more than enough. Tomorrow I'll be able to compare these with the measures on the Transcale neck (although it seems it's a pre-production unit) and will report. Thanks, cheers, JPB
  8. Hi Glenn! Welcome. surely you can't go wrong buying a Spirit as these guitars are worth every cent (excessive prices excepted, of course). If you'll search the Net will find lots of different prices, based on condition, type, age, kind of finish and seller's price policies too :-) String changing and tuning is a snap on these guitars, tuning stability is great even under repetitive trem action (but it may be locked). Sound wise, the EMG Select pickups are pretty versatile and do their job, anyway you can consider upgradings later, as the guitar surely deserves. I hope this helps a l
  9. Hello again! Hohners are as fine and as good as Spirits, all these are made out of the same components (same wood, same R-trem and headpiece, same electronics too) and at the same Korean factory as well. The only major differences are the trem saddles (no stainless "rollers" on Hohners), the control knobs (anodized aluminium on Hohners) and pickup selectors: All headless Hohner guitars do use toggle switches for selecting the pickups. On guitars with 3 pickups, a row of individual On-Off toggles do the job so you can also have neck+bridge or even all three pickups On at the same time
  10. Olá, Nuno! (Hello, Nuno!) Pelo tipo de cavaletes do tremolo, os botões dos potenciômetros, e a configuração H-H, só pode ser uma Hohner G2T. Como disse o Eagle, o logo é falso e se descolares o autocolante, deverás encontrar o logo Hohner Professional. (By the trem saddles type, the pots knobs and the H-H layout, it can only be a Hohner G2T. As Eagle said, the logo is fake and if you'll lift the sticker, you should find the Hohner Professional logo.) Saudações (Cheers), JPB
  11. OK, as you're willing a through-neck headless bass other than the expensive Status, you'd better go for a Synapse bass which has the latest developments in neck construction and piezo bridge with active electronics. If this option is still considered expensive (even second-hand), then you should check the Hohner basses, these are always showing up on eBay, either the US site (for paddle body) or the UK or German sites (full-bodied The Jack and also paddle body). These basses do use Steinberger System hardware of the same type found on the Spirit series, including the DB-bridge. If at the
  12. Hi! I also do have such a converted triangular file, a bit bigger than a needle file so it has a handle, but had already thought about converting a needle file, only didn't because I'm not a professional and don't use this very often, then a slightly bigger file with a handle also provides more control, I think. By the way, there's a factory in my country that makes among the best needle files available on the World, in fact two brands from the same family, with a traditional high quality often compared to the famous Swiss-made Vallorbe files, first factory now closed was Tomé Feteira (sh
  13. Yes, stainless steel is a though material to deal with on any part and frets are no exception, however the good side of the same thoughness it's the extremely low wear and obviously no tarnish, so it's well worth the effort to finish all those frets, they'll last almost forever and they look fantastic too. Do you use regular fret files for working on the stainless steel, or diamond ones? Regarding the SS-2F neck, even thought I cannot do any comparison with the SS-2FPA Transcale baritone neck, I would dare to suppose that, aside from the roller capo slots in the latest, both necks may have
  14. Hi! Looks like that you've got a nice fret work done here, congrats! However, shaving the neck, even a little a bit, may prove too risky, considering how critical are the neck adjustments on Synapses, so I guess that the tensions balance could be messed when doing this... Some of the the four different materials involved (neck and fingerboard woods, truss rod and carbon) may have been kept near to their limits regarding that balance, I hope that you'll see what I mean... Cheers, JPB
  15. Hi! By the way, here is a good, precise overview of all Zamac variants used for casting, including their properties: http://www.eazall.com/diecastalloys.aspx Cheers, JPB
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