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Mustache Guitar Repairs

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About Mustache Guitar Repairs

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    Metro NYC/Long Island
  1. Hey, I understand! You can go from being "the guy" to being "da Man"...... Good luck to ya Travis! And keep those repair job journals coming. I, for one, like it.

    Rod

  2. Charcoal, fresh air, and small open containers of baking soda.
  3. I typically charge $25 for a direct tuner replacement (including a restring with fresh strings, obviously not including tuners), and $45 for non-direct since there's usually set-screw holes that need to be filled and/or drilled and some reaming that needs to be done to get everything to fit properly. If you really want it to stay in tune, I'd agree with Old Rocker 59 and go with a set of Grovers. But if you're trying to do it on the cheap then go with those stewmac ones and they'll at least be better than the ones that came stock on your guitar.
  4. Hey Rod,

    No longer at the music zoo, the owner and I weren't really seeing eye to eye business-wise. Time to move on and work under my own name instead of being "the guy" at a store.

    I am kind of bummed that J-45 I posted still hasn't been picked up from there, so I'll never know how the customer liked it, oh well.

  5. Hey Travis, you changed your name? Pressure from the store....or change jobs?

  6. They aren't always the best with masking/cleaning up the truss rod nuts in the finish department for whatever reason, even with some custom shop models. I usually use a nice sharp exacto knife (one with fine point) or a small micro chisel and scrape off enough excess to fit a wrench onto it, then take the brass nut off completely to get it nice and clean. Before you put it back on apply a drop of 3-in-1 oil or graphite guitar grease to the inner threads of the nut, and one on the threaded rod exposed in the cavity to ensure everything will turn smoothly for many years to come (broken/stripped truss rods are not cheap or easy repairs).
  7. This is physics that is taught in luthier-specific schools during the course of building guitars across the world, and while average Joes and internet know-it-alls may debate it in forums, it doesn't change the fact that these things do matter and will effect string tension (noticeably measurable in lbs. of pressure). While you may not buy it, as someone who works on guitars daily and has seen and dealt with these things as commonly as I have, I know that what's said on the internet and what is actually true are not always the same.
  8. String tension is directly effected by downward pressure, and both electric and acoustic guitars have strings. So while it may not make the top of an electric vibrate more since it's a solid piece and not a soundbox, it will effect the tension and feel of the strings, by way of the break angle, which is applicable to both electric and acoustic guitars.
  9. higher break angle(angle of strings coming down off bridge) = greater downward tension on top = more string tension. Same reason why you don't want the saddle on an acoustic guitar to be too low to the top of the bridge. When the strings are coming down at a steeper angle it puts more pressure on the strings, which puts more pressure on the top, which increases vibration and by default will increase volume.
  10. It doesn't effect sustain nearly as much as it does break angle and string tension. If set too high your guitar might seem to have some slight buzz when playing up and down the board, or your strings will feel kind of sloppy. I typically set it nice and low (strings almost touching if not touching the back of the bridge slightly) to avoid these problems, especially if the guitar is played in drop tunings. Some guys claim to get better tone when they string it like a wraparound, but this actually will greatly decrease string tension, and has zero effect on tone/sustain. Hope this helps Travis
  11. You're pretty much stuck with it, the only way to really get rid of that would be to touch up the lacquer in those spots and re-spray that section of the neck.
  12. Won't have any effect on the sound of the guitar, and here's the solution to your problem: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_parts/Acoustic_guitar:_Bridge_and_endpins/NoJak_Endpin.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=325
  13. Gorgeous! While I agree that the 70's weren't the best years for Gibson, I'm never surprised when I see guitars like this. It just shows they did at least make some exceptionally nice guitars during that period, despite all the turds and boat anchors that came out too.
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