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rocket launcher

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About rocket launcher

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  1. Hi

    I am a fragile and tender woman who needs a strong and reliable, SEXsexual partner.

    My profile is here https://sex-gibson.tumblr.com

    Kisses Rocket Launcher

  2. UPDATE: The 2nd pair of thumb wheels worked perfectly! The set that came from Stewmac were a tighter fit so I used those under the bridge and use the original pair to snug up the posts to the bearings. The bridge is rock solid and no longer sways back and forth. Thank you again for the suggestion!
  3. Friggin brilliant idea! I attached a pic of how the bridge looked before I took it off for the Bigsby Install. Looks like there is enough room for another thumb wheel. I can pick up a pair from Stewmac. Even in this pic you can see the bridge leaning forward, that second thumb wheel should solve that.
  4. Happy Holidays all! I am upgrading my new Epi 345 B.B. King "Lucille" edition with a Bigsby B-6 and a Towner Bar. For the most part the new parts have gone on really well and I think I made a good choice with this combo. My weakest link is the stock Epi B-2 Tune-o-matic bridge. For some reason they used the version that comes with the small M4 posts and small shallow bushings. The quality of this bridge is pretty pathetic. The M4 studs/bushings are so poorly fit tolerance wise, the bridge rocks back and forth and side to side quite a lot. instead of screwing down snugly, it feels like the studs are one size smaller than the bushings. It didn't really matter all that much when there was a standard tail piece, however with the Bigsby, I am thinking the bridge will rock a bit and that will probably affect the tuning. Based on my googling and noodling, it looks like I have the following options: 1. Replace with a Gotoh T-O-M bridge with the larger M8 posts (which I already have), use a 11mm drill bit to enlarge the bushing holes 2. Replace with a Nashville T-O-M bridge for smaller post bushings, at least the post and thumb wheel would be one piece and the stud shaft would be larger M5x.8 3. Replace with a better quality T-O-M bridge like a Grover 520G that has better quality machined posts and bearings and a one piece post/thumb wheel like the Nashville) I would appreciate any insight you folks may have. I think if I fix this weak link and get this 345 all stitched up it will be a darn fun guitar to take to my weekly jam band practice!
  5. Update: Ordered a Bigsby B6 and a Towner bar kit. Now that I can adjust the break angle over the bridge, I still want to get a more rigid bridge. Any suggestions?
  6. I am still collecting data and ideas, then I will order the goodies and slap them on. I am solid on the B5/Vibramate combo. Still looking at the bridge update options. I hope to have these new hardware options by the Christmas break. Stay tuned....
  7. Message sent on the B5. I still think I want something more solid for a bridge. Those studs sure felt like light scrap metal. I dont mind spending the $30+ dollars for a better quality one.
  8. Well after some noodling around quite a bit, and your suggestions, I am going to get the Bigsby B5 and a Vibramate. I am still wanting to upgrade the bridge. Those skinny studs cant be giving me as much as a better design would. And they let the bridge rock some which could affect tuning. Any bridge upgrades you recommend? I am ok if its not a roller bridge, as long as it comes in gold.
  9. Good afternoon all, I recently picked up a barely used BB King edition 345 at GC, my first EPI. I play in a neighborhood jam band once a week so having a guitar with versatile tones is a plus. So far I really like it. I run it through a rack of mostly old analog pedals into a Fender Blues Jr IV. Its bone stock right now, only mod i have made is taking that ugly "E" off the pick guard. I want to add a Bigsby (in gold of course) and was wondering if any of you have done that yet and could offer any advice? I am very open to upgrading the bridge, I am worried those tiny flimsy threaded bolts that hold it up will move a bit when using the Bigsby. Any suggestions? Thanks all!!
  10. I struggled with the same issue on my new custom shop Hummingbird. The endpin jack was part of the problem. After I sent it back to Montana they ended up replacing the entire Baggs system to remove the last bit of sizzle/buss sound.
  11. When my new Custom Quilt Maple Bird was in the shop in Montana earlier this year, the tech suggested I try out the new Elixir HD strings. They (Gibson)seem to think they work well on the Bird. I have purchased a set but have not put them on yet. I just wanted to apss it along since it was the Gibson folks that recommended it.
  12. Good evening friends, thought I would give you an update on my goofy Bird. After I my last trip back to Fuller's for repairs, I was still not happy with it. It still had a sizzle sound in it once in a while and I was just not playing right. So I took them up on their "satisfaction guarantee" and asked for a refund. Well they were not happy I called their bluff, so they said they needed to send it back to Gibson first to see if the issues could be corrected. So off it went. A couple months later I got a call from one of the tech's at the Gibson factory in Montana. We had a very lenghty discussion on the things I was not happy with and they had noticed the vibration sound wanted to know what we had tried to fix it. A couple of weeks later they called to let me know they replaced the Fishman stystem in it and thought that fixed the problem. They also did some honing on the frets to dress them up a bit and found some bone pins that fit more consistently with a little bit of work. I just got it back today and so far it seems to be playing fine. They recommended I try the Elixir HD strings on it but it shipped with their 80/20 strings. Its back on the wall with my other guitars and I intent to start breaking it in again. I have my fingers crossed it doesn't leave the house for a while. I gatta admit the Gibson folks were very much on their customer service game this round. I still have the tech's cell number in case it acts up again.
  13. I appreciate you folks lettinmg me vent. I agree this has turned 180, and I wish I could get this guitar back on track. What really bums me out is right after I had the neck set and put in the bone saddle/pins, the guitar was spot on and played wonderfully. It was usually the first guitar I picked up when I got home. Then after about three months of consistent playing this buzzing started. Which leads me to believe somthing has come loose as it got broken in. After fuming a bit more last night following my not so pleasant experience with Fuller's, I think I will swing by on my way home and pick it up and give it another once over myself this weekend. I think I am am going to strip out the Baggs electronics and see if that stops the buzzing. If it does I will just get an aftermarket endpin and live wothout the electronics for a while. I don't have to have it, got plenty of others to plug in. I have been tempted to call Gibson's customer service, but I did not have a very good experience last time I contacted them about a different issue. No where close to the service I get at Taylor.
  14. Well the folks at Fuller's called and said my Bird was fixed and ready. I had gotten a call earlier that day from the "technician" that told me it was fixed, until I re-explained what the problem was and then he said he would "look at it again". But I still had my doubts. So I get there and give it a look and pluck on it a bit and the sizzle sound is still there. Not as loud but still there. Then I tap on the end block next to the jack and you can still hear that rattle sound like something is loose. Well after an hour talking to two of the staff people, I came to the conclusion that they are about as bright as polished rocks. For people "trained in Montana" they sure did not seem to disturbed at the challenges I was having with the obvious poor quality. And it was very clear they were not up for giving me a $3500 refund. I also pointed out how the new larger 2A size bone bridge pins were pulling up from the back because of the inconsistent pin hole reeming, again, no one seemed concerned. But I did get a lecture about how the materials of the saddle and pins really doesn't have any impact on the sound. And thats when the sales guy asked me if I owned other acoustic guitars, I guess because he thought I was just making all this stuff up from inexperience. So we concluded this.... I would come back next Tuesday when the tech was actually there, and go over my issues with him in person and then decide if they can fix it or if I need to send it back to Gibson. Needless to say I don't have much faith in them, but thats what I am going to try. If I had to guess, I would say this ends up with me getting the neck back to how I had it set up when it played best (before the buzzing started), a fresh set of Elixirs, and the original saddle and pins installed, then I will have Fullers sell it for me as a used guitar, and then I will take what I can get and find a nice well playing used one in Nashville when I go there in August. I will lose about $1,000 on the deal but I won't be pissed off every time I play it. And I won't be buying any new Gibsons anytime soon.
  15. I just got the '98 CL-20 back from the shop. I had a Colosi custom made bone bridge and bone pins installed along with a K&K Pure Mini with Pre-Phase (pre-amp). I also had the neck set up and a few other tweaks. I went with the Elixir Polyweb 80/20 light-mediums. Overall I am very pleased. The tone has way more dimension and a lot more depth. It sounds more like a vintage Gibson than a sound cannon. My daughter is going to used it at an open mic on Monday to see how well it sounds plugged in a nice PA system. I am looking forward to hearing it live. Darn nice these CL guitars are. I wont pass one up next time I run accross one.
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