icing777 Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Hello, we need an update and a clarification on some issues here, please. 1. How is the new and improved (more detailed) User Manual coming? Any date yet? 2. Please clarify if the neck (P90 P/U) is a single coil or dual? I have never seen the "south coil" show green row of lights when go to "c" to see the P/U set up. Not in any setting. Is that a problem or there is no south coil? Along the same lines - when at "c" - does it show the "default" P/U configuration or the currently chosen Chameleon mode set up? If default - how do you set the bridge for dual coils (if 2 colis exist) 3. Is there both - a single string down and a single string up mode? Thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed91 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 The second point is very important IMO. But a stupid question. I have seen that it can be "both coils" => so maybe dual ? This point is not clear.. And if it is dual, how can we use the south coil ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loaded70 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Could the P90h be a "stacked" humbucker? With the south coil on the bottom, used for noise canceling only in the "Rock" and "Metal" mode? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibson CS Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Updates to the manual will be posted on the DF website as they become available, NOTE: there's a new manual posted yesterday that details the tuning function. Keep checking the DF site for future updates. The P-90H is like a stacked humbucker, it features an underwound bottom coil used only for noise canceling. Based on the info we have there is only a single string up mode; string down mode is only available for all 6 strings at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elantric Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 So based on this info - Tronical's design seem more suited for a traditional Neck PAF. I would ask the Dark Fire Team to find a way to "engage" the underwound bottom coil used only for noise canceling - as it appears Tronical always has this turned "off" = Neck North single Coil = Hum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elantric Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Updates to the manual will be posted on the DF website as they become available, NOTE: there's a new manual posted yesterday that details the tuning function. Keep checking the DF site for future updates. Really? Can you post a link that works in North America? This one still has stale Dark_Fire_Get_Started.zip http://www2.gibson.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/Les-Paul/Gibson-USA/DarkFire.aspx We need the version which contains: DF_Manual_draft_tuningsection.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icing777 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Thanks for answering, Customer Service! I totally agree with elantric on the P90 issue. Now, I can't imagine a reason for NOT having a single string wind down mode... Someone, please explain this to me, otherwise I'll be walking around thinking that it is a MAJOR FLAW and dreading the day when 1 string needs to be changed for whatever reason. That alone makes it impossible to have the DF as a one and only axe at the gig.... I mean - who has time to deal with 6 strings, even if it only to unwind and wind back the 5 you are not changing. Making sure that contact is not lost st the bridge, re-settling the neck, re-tuning, .... Joy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexyboy Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Haven't got my DF yet, but I thought I would give my opinion, for what it is worth. Got absolutely no experience whatsoever playing live, but I can see how a single string wind up/wind down would be useful for you professionals, but will it really take any longer to get into tune if it does wind the remaining 5 down and then all 6 up? Which brings me on to my next point!! Again, many on here have forgotten more knowledge than I have, but would Gibson really allow you to wind down all 6 strings if it was going to screw the neck up etc? Probably like most of you, I rely on a guitar 'guru' who is an awesome guitarist and been playing for a good 30 years, and his guitar collection would fill a small house!! He advised me to change all 6 strings at the same time, and I change mine every 6 weeks or so or when I have forgottten to wipe them down and they start feeling a bit rough because of corrosion, so you can really get in and give the fretboard and frets a thorough cleaning and I must admit the feel straight afterwards is gorgeous and I have never, ever had any probs with the neck or intonation etc - even though I have only been playing for a short time in comparison to some of you guys, I must have done at least a 100 string changes without problem. My engineering head says you are not really changing the tensions on the neck or the strings much, the problem would be if you removed all the strings and didn't fit new ones for some time, a few hours or maybe overnight or something, and that maybe changing humidity etc might then affect the wood fibres in the neck. Wood of course does have some 'muscle memory' but I would guess that when the tension is relieved for a period of time, then it would revert to its original shape i.e. flat. But if you re-string immediately, i cannot see any problem. I am fully prepared to stand corrected!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elantric Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I believe they took a poll - and 90% said they change "just one string" in response to a string breakage. In my 40 yrs of playing - I think I changed "Just One string" a total of 3 times. and theres always my no brainer method for one string removal - see this thread: http://forums.gibson.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=11327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icing777 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Granted, changing all strings is better and all that. My point is that in all situations I have ever been - it is always that 1 string that breaks... Never had more then 1. Ever... Besides, what is the idea behind the single string wind up? When would you use it then?????? (aside from elantric's method :) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elantric Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 After you break one string - I interpret "single string wind up" as the ideal function used to install a new one. I would use this quite a lot - and be *****ing loudly if it was not functioning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexyboy Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sorry if my reply was confusing, of course I change the occasional single string, and so for you guys playing live a single string wind-up is extremely useful. What i meant about changing strings as a set i.e. for routine maintenance, is that i have always changed all 6 at once, on the advice of my guitar guru, without any problem whatsoever, and so I am more than happy with a 6 string wind down and wind-up. Plus I would guess that if you only changed one string and did a normal tune, it would wind that one string up to pitch anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLB Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Dexy, the idea behind having a "single string up mode" is it gives us the opportunity to replace one string at a time when replacing ALL strings or if ONLY one string needs to be replaced. When I changed strings on the DF, removing them was easy. Installing the 6 new strings all at one time was a sloppy operation at best. I strung all 6 strings onto the DF, locked them down at the tuners, cut off the excess length and basically had strings laying over each other, because I left about a finger's worth of slack in the strings, which I know not to do next time. The "fingers worth" of slack means I placed one finger between the string and the fretboard before locking them down. I should have tensioned each string against the fretboard and tightened it down at the tuner and then I probably would not have had difficulty using the all string up mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elantric Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 FWIW - Dark Fire Tuners - Notice average of One Half wrap on tuning posts on all strings @ standard tuning - stays in tune very well! Actually on ALL my guitars with non- locking tuners, I use a reverse interlock wrap and use less than three quarters of a wrap on the tuning post. This was the trick to keep a vintage Strat in tune, and benefits ALL guitars to keep in tune. #1 RULE to keep a guitar in Tune - Minimize any excess "non-speaking" string length anywhere you can. Dont wrap 3 to 5 turns of string at your binding post - instead try this: 1) Pull string thru tuner binding post hole 2) Take the section of string you typically cut off and reverse loop it back one half wrap and thread it UNDER the keeper side of the string, 3) Make a sharp vertical bend in the string section you typically cut off. 4) Tune the guitar to pitch - should result in less than three quarters of a string wrap on each tuning post. 5) Cut off excess string 6) Practice this method above, and play the guitar a week before judging its results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLB Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I'll be replacing my strings again on the DF shortly as I've already logged about 20 hours on my new strings and I'll try that method....as it looks like a great way to place more "bite" to hold the string, especially when using the locking tuner post. Thanx Elantric ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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