rhumbadringle Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 About 6 months ago I purchased a second hand epiphone special II, didn't cost much and so I wasn't expecting much. Naturally I ran into some problems, the first being that it would not stay in tune for more than five minutes, doing some research I found this to be a very common problem, and for the most part resolved this issue by purchasing new tuning heads and nut. Now I have intonation problems but only on the low E and G strings, I have adjusted string length, and while this worked for all other strings nothing I do will change the intonation on problem strings. If anyone has any insight on this problem it would be greatly appreciated, thanks kindly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pesh Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 About 6 months ago I purchased a second hand epiphone special II, didn't cost much and so I wasn't expecting much. Naturally I ran into some problems, the first being that it would not stay in tune for more than five minutes, doing some research I found this to be a very common problem, and for the most part resolved this issue by purchasing new tuning heads and nut. Now I have intonation problems but only on the low E and G strings, I have adjusted string length, and while this worked for all other strings nothing I do will change the intonation on problem strings. If anyone has any insight on this problem it would be greatly appreciated, thanks kindly. Depending on how much you'd be willing to spend on it; new nut, machineheads, and bridge would go well. Although th cost of this could easily exceed the value of the guitar. If it's intonation, this is based at the bridge with an adjustment of the saddles. If the bridge is cheaper then the saddles could be poor quality or they might not hold position under tension. It could well be that the intonation is off, or the relief for the string tension in the neck isn't right for the strings, so the neck is moving. Take it to a tech or a mate that knows their stuff and get them to have a look if you're unsure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhumbadringle Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Depending on how much you'd be willing to spend on it; new nut, machineheads, and bridge would go well. Although th cost of this could easily exceed the value of the guitar. If it's intonation, this is based at the bridge with an adjustment of the saddles. If the bridge is cheaper then the saddles could be poor quality or they might not hold position under tension. It could well be that the intonation is off, or the relief for the string tension in the neck isn't right for the strings, so the neck is moving. Take it to a tech or a mate that knows their stuff and get them to have a look if you're unsure. Thanks bruv, yea think I'll go with a new bridge allowing more intonation range. Reversing G string saddle did help some as it allowed more string length (hitting sharp even on second fret). Otherwise I'll have to get a pro to check out the neck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pesh Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Thanks bruv, yea think I'll go with a new bridge allowing more intonation range. Reversing G string saddle did help some as it allowed more string length (hitting sharp even on second fret). Otherwise I'll have to get a pro to check out the neck... Remember that if you're changing the bridge; measure the posts in both width and spacing. Epiphones, from what I know; have metric dimensions for hardware, whereas Gibson guitars, being US-made, use imperial. So make sure you go for a bridge with the right posts and spacing. TonePros offer a range of both metric and imperial, and have the added benefits of being lockable; there is a mechanism that holds the bridge unit to the posts so it doesn't fly off when it isn't under tension, and helps hold the action where you've set it. The intonation adjustment is that of the Nashville style tune-o-matic bridges, as long as you avoid the AVR and NVR models (modelled on the ABR-1 - much smaller!). TonePros also offer a tailpiece range to match, with the same features, and both can be purchased in a set. There are of course other bridges on offer; I just swear by TonePros as they're brilliant IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vognell Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Check the distance from the 12th fret to the nut, and the 12th fret to about midpoint on the bridge. This guy epiphone les paul intonation horror story had a similar problem... seems to have been an issue with the bridge being located in the wrong place. I don't think this is a common issue, but apparently it can happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crust Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 My first Epiphone electric guitar was an LP Special II which I obtained at the Boston Guitar Center. It was an OK guitar...but, as others have pointed out, the tuners weren't the greatest. Also, I bend the strings somewhat when I jam the blues. The high E string would break at the saddle. I never did put graph-tech saddles on it...Oh well. I did stick a pick guard on the thing and sold it to a student at Brown University, maybe a year after obtaining it. It actually sounded and "played" very good, great neck, perfect size (for me) Also, the head-stock had no "special" script. It was "blank". Here's a picture. It also had the "Gibson" truss rod cover. So, it certainly was a "Gibson" Les Paul...Right ?? I also have a 2014, 120th anniversary Gibson Firebird. That thing also breaks the high E string (I am putting graph-tech saddles on that one). The string break at the saddle vertex was about the same thing/condition, on both guitars and the action on both is/was quite similar, in my humble opinion. Surprising how similar both guitars were/are to actually play. I really liked to play some slide stuff on the LP Special II, sounded nasty,in a good way. As was mentioned, some have turned the saddles 180 degrees to add a slight bit of distance of the saddle to the nut, to slightly improve intonation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhumbadringle Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Thanks for the replies all. Pesh (anyone) would you recommend buying bridge and tailpiece set, wondering if new tailpiece is necessary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhumbadringle Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pesh Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Thanks for the replies all. Pesh (anyone) would you recommend buying bridge and tailpiece set, wondering if new tailpiece is necessary... If replacing the bridge with something like a TonePros, I would recommend the matching tailpiece. While this adds expense, there is also the benefit that a locking tailpiece will not slide off the posts when you're re-stringing, which protects the finish on the top face, and helps free a hand when you're in the re-stringing process. Please tell me; what kind of posts the guitar currently has? Are they small (about 2/16th") or larger? (about 1/4")? When You let me know I can recommend the particular product Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A1Coyote Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Thanks for the replies all. Pesh (anyone) would you recommend buying bridge and tailpiece set, wondering if new tailpiece is necessary... Have you seen the TonePros Locking Studs? I haven't used them but have come across them recently, they replace the normal locking studs on the tail piece. The top are separate screws that tighten down on the tail piece so it is mounted solidly in place. TonePros claims: Solid coupling for better sustain Improved bridge/tailpiece stability More precise, lasting intonation Won't fall off during restringing They range between $34 - $39, and seem like a good improvement for the money, and you would not have to replace your stock tail piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErickC Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 How are your neck relief and bridge height set? Excessive distance between string and board will require greater compensation. I set my relief to .010" at the seventh fret with the first and fifteenth frets depressed, and string height to 3/64 on the treble side and 5/64 on the bass side, measured at the fifteenth fret with the first fret depressed. The bridge height may need to be slightly higher depending on how level your frets are. Also ensure the nut slots are filed to the appropriate height. Excessive nut height will require additional compensation. As will light-gauge strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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