gary6839 Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Hello All, I was hoping to get some advice on finishing a repair on an Epiphone Sheraton that was started several years ago. A new puppy (bad dog..) knocked over the guitar that was on a stand where it landed hard on a wood floor partially splitting but not separating the headstock from the neck. Initially, I was able to glue the neck together with titebond by sitting it on a table, injecting the glue and applying a weight to the headstock where it sat for weeks. It has played fine since and I can make truss rod adjustments with it but I'd like to get some advice on getting the cherry stain to match and apply a lacquer. I still have a hairline crack that I can't sand out and was planning on using color tone clear grain filler to fill and sand the crack. This is where I'm a bit stuck. It looks like there may be 2 stains used in this process. During the sanding process, I can see the bare wood and 2 distinct colors. Has anybody matched this stain/laquer with success? I was planning on purchasing a cherry red alcohol stain from Stew Mac and finishing with an aged clear spray laquer but before I pull the trigger, I'd like to be sure that there isn't another stain that I'm missing. Any advice from you all would be greatly appreciated!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary6839 Posted January 17, 2023 Author Share Posted January 17, 2023 A little more info. It's the Tobacco Sunburst version with what looks like to me is a cherry red back. Maple neck with mahogany inserts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friday Posted January 18, 2023 Share Posted January 18, 2023 I’ll be very interested in the responses you get as I have exactly the same finish matching challenge on my recent project (neck repair on Epiphone SG Pro). Regarding your remaining crack … what I did was fill with multiple layers of mahogany sawdust packed down then wet with *thin* CA glue. You would omit the sawdust as it’s a tiny crack. Get the CA on in very thin passes until it’s just proud of the neck surface. Scrape smooth each dry layer with a protected flat razor blade and sand with 2000 and 3000 grit wet paper. Beautiful. After that is your finish matching. Which I’d be very keen to hear about as this is my next step too. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary6839 Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share Posted January 18, 2023 Thanks for responding to this. How did your CA work when staining. Any tips on stain dilution to match to the way the wood takes the stain in? I had trouble in my previous attempt to get the wood to take (water based stain at the time) absorb the stain but the area where the glue was got really dark making it very visible. I'm trying to figure out a way to avoid this. I don't know if the fillers perform like the wood regarding stain absorption or if I need to take precautions when staining whether it's CA or filler. Thanks again for the response Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friday Posted January 18, 2023 Share Posted January 18, 2023 Hi again. I haven’t done the staining part of this project yet. I won’t be attempting to hide the repair very much at all, just to enhance the aesthetics of the general area. I haven’t gone down to bare wood. I do not expect the CA in the repair to accept stain very well at all, but it’s ok with me. I have even been considering treating the area with a Kintsubi (gold leaf) effect on the whole crack as it has a good shape to it. I wonder whether that’s a thing. Undecided. Yours is a more valuable instrument and you’ll need to do tests on scrap wood. Probably best not to sand back any further on the actual neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.