jchabalk Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Hi there - my Norlin era Hummingbird (1976) didn't have a Gibson soundhole sticker when i bought it. It did have 42 cracks, a twisted neck and a shaved bridge though. The last 3 were fixed and it's a great guitar now, the first has been bothering me for a while so i started looking around for a factory label I found a 70s/80s Gibson Hummingbird sticker on ebay a little while ago and am planning on putting it in with my next string change which just may be tonight. Any advice on applying it? It's got a very little bit of sticky on the back, but not enough to keep it on there long. rubber cement? double-sided tape? thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombiewuff Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Any advice on applying it? I wouldn't. A 'bird from that era, even without a label, can have it's provenance reasonably determined from other factors. If on the other hand you add a non-original label, you simply introduce doubt as to the veracity of it's authenticity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchabalk Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 yeah - you're probably right... this guitar's such a mish mosh of norlin problems i don't think it'll make a huge difference one way or another ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibson101 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 It's your guitar go for it. I'm pretty sure you should glue it in. Frets.com has an article on gluing labels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyK Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 You're right, if it's a Norlin era.... anything, it isn't very valuable. If you just want it to look 'right' just for you, then go ahead. Hide glue is the traditional way of adhesing it to the back. Heat the glue, then brush it on the back of the label, then stick it to the inside. Although, store-bought, already liquid in the bottle 'hide' glue might be just as good in this particular application as there is no appreciable load for the glue hold. You should probably practice placing it in just the right spot before you get the back covered in glue. You don't want to smear glue all over the back trying to get it lined up. Maybe apply the glue to within 1/8" of the edges. Then fold the lable in half...not creasing it... with the glue out. Hold between thumb and index finger to get it through the hole and centered. Then while holding the center down, squeegy the face of the label to work the glue out towards the edges. That's a lot of foldin' and holdin' and centerin' and squeegyin' through a hole not much bigger than an man's fist... best practice with a dry label. Work quick if you use heated hide glue as it needs to be stuck before it cools. If the back has a center spline, that stick of wood running from the neck block to the bottom pin along the inside of the back, don't tuck the label so it wraps into every corner between the spline and the back board. It is kind of draped over the spline then stuck with mostly the ends of the label. there should be a gap between label and the back along side the spline. btw, a FLEABay bought label might not be authentic Gibson stock. It may have the look, but I'm sure there are ways to determine authenticity... but then again it doesn't appear that's what you're going for. Note to all... be cautious of any FLEABay offerings of a Gibson Hummingbird by jchalbalk with a brand spanking new looking label. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry K Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Don't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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