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jchabalk

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About jchabalk

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  1. The apogee has a special cable connector right? I thought at some point they had a version with a mini usb connection on the MiC. An option to consider similar to that is the Blue Raspberry or the Shure MVx mics/interfaces (MV51) - these are both micro usb and usbc -> micro usb are readily available. I find at least with the ipad that i’m more apt to use it to record if i make it as simple as possible. Once i’ve got to bring a bunch of other stuff i tend to use a regular computer and audio interface.
  2. One thing i forgot to check yesterday is how the pins are drilled in the bridge. From what i've read gibson drills the holes straight through whereas Martin tapers the hole. If the hole in the bridge is tapered to the same angle as the bridge pin there will be more purchase on the mechanical connection between the pin and the bridge/top/plate which should result in a stronger connection.
  3. My guitar is a 2008 J-45. It's got an Adi top and is one of the guitars the set that became the "TV" line a few months later. For strings I use either John Pearse PB Mediums or D'Addario EJ17 Medium PB. I was messing with my bridge pins today and had a few questions so i figured i'd share. I ordered a set of antique acoustics J45 to try out. This started because after a recent setup and i was trying to figure out if i should get the bridge pin holes tapered so the pins fit in there a little more tightly and consistently. I also don't have much saddle left on the guitar and so slotting the holes to increase string angle came up which got me exploring this. For kicks i tried out the original white plastic pins that came with the guitar from the factory, i've had a hybrid set of ebony (EAD) and water buffalo horn (GBE) in there for the last 10 years or so and never found any issue with them. The white plastic factory pins seat in there real well and tend to pitch to an angle under tension. The hybrid set i've been running don't sit perfectly but they stay put, and the antique acoustics sit up about 1/4+" proud of the bridge - so either they need to be shaved down or the holes need to be reamed to make those fit properly. I've been searching around a little and i know i'm opening up pandora's box here but i'm wondering if tapering the holes for a solid fit and notching the bridge is a worthwhile for the guitar long-term. To be honest when i had the "antique acoustic" pins in the guitar it sounded like crap (relatively speaking) but i don't think they were able to properly lock the strings in due to being so much larger than the holes. I've got it back with the larry cragg i've been using - couldn't tell any difference in sound between the factory plastics and the hybrid set, but i like the black pins better. I measured each set of pins with a caliper as i was changing them out, checking taper using this site: ------------------------------ Antique Acoustics - 5 degree taper Collar: 5.56mm Heel: 4.65mm ------------------------------ Larry Cragg Hybrid - 4 degree taper (the high e broke while i was tuning up) Collar: 5.54mm Heel: 4.77mm ------------------------------ Gibson Plastic Whites - 6 degree taper Collar: 5.33mm Heel: 4.2mm
  4. Here's another thread on the same guitar - they've got a little more discussion on it. Forum Thread
  5. I've kind of settled on mediums for my J-45 and i've been keeping lights on my 200 but i might switch it up again next time i change strings. enjoy! that's a beautiful guitar you have
  6. This is from the Musician's Friend page on that guitar: Strings: .012" - .052" Gibson Light Guage (They misspelled gauge but probably have it right that it shipped with lights, you could try mediums, you might like it. the guitar can certainly handle it)
  7. crappy flat-picker here. I kind of feel like the short scale and/or 1-11/16" nut and string spacing is more of a thing than the fretboard radius (for me anyway). I kind of got used to it - and i've got bigger problems to sort out with my playing 😉 I do kind of want to get a D-18 though The difference is minimal, but there is a difference:
  8. Its tough to tell but that might be a J-45 - the serial number should be on neck block visible inside the sound hole. Someone more familiar with these things will be able to tell you with more confidence than i can. Do you have any more pictures (I wish this sort of thing happened in my family 😉 )
  9. Does it say anything on the underside of the bridge?
  10. It was built right towards the end of 2015 likely in preparation for their 2016 model year - they're a little loose around that sort of thing. You can always contact Gibson with the serial number and they should be able to get you the specs, model etc... It's a great looking guitar, enjoy it. You made a good choice 😎
  11. Sure looks real to me! 😉 The epiphone ej-200n (n=natural color top). It's the epiphone version - or maybe inspired by - the gibson sj-200. It looks like it's been used and played. There's nothing in the pictures to suggest that there's a problem with it - if you're just learning how to play your best bet is to get a set of light acoustic phosphor-bronze strings ("12's") and a tuner (or tuner app on your phone). If you don't know how to string it up there are a bunch of youtube videos. You could buy strings at any local music store or Amazon. If there's a guitar shop near you they'd probably string it up for you and check it out for a minimal charge, they'd likely have strings for you too. Good luck with it
  12. weird. i get, "video unavailable" both when i try to watch it embedded in the forum post and also if i follow the link out to youtube. something's hosed somewhere.
  13. It looks like the video got yanked.
  14. I don't think he's too far off on the numbers. I had a 76 Hummingbird - it didn't have any personal meaning to me other than i bought it at a shop thinking it was a good buy. i spent a good deal of money getting it fixed up for similar issues to yours and i ended up never really bonding with it, the sound, the looks, the feel of the neck - it just never worked for me. I sold it for about what i paid for it ~$2k and essentially ate the cost of the repairs (~<$2k). I took it as a good learning opportunity. My guitar needed a neck reset, and fretboard leveling (the neck had a twist to it), a refret, a new bridge/saddle, and a number of top, back,side cracks glued and cleated. It hadn't been abused, it was just an old guitar from an era that didn't necessarily produce great instruments consistently. As someone who just likes to play and sometime purchase guitars (i'm not buying and flipping them) i'll just stay away from the Norlin era. It's not that i wouldn't get a guitar from that time period again if the opportunity was there - but i wouldn't put anything into it outside of a setup.
  15. Do you guys use an app you like to keep your guitar tabs and sheet music organized and available? I use an ipad and have been looking around. Seems like forescore and unrealbook are recommended pretty highly but i can't make heads or tails of all the features. I want to be able to organize and use PDFs and chordpro / tab formatted song, be able to have them live on dropbox/icloud etc and be available offline. Support for chordpro/tab seems to be unclear. Forscore sounds great but it doesn't appear to support guitar tabs. Is there any clear winner here?
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