Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

jchabalk

All Access
  • Content Count

    698
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Neutral

About jchabalk

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern California

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's got that big pickguard like what Johnny Cash had on his. Here's the link to the product page
  2. There are these really small ones from D'Addario you could check out. I got one of them, it's definitely low profile. Since i mostly play in the house i use a TurboTuner or my phone (the peterson app) a lot of the time. I also have had those snark tuners just kind of go dead on me after a little while. The tuner still powers on and appears to be fine but it's effectively gone deaf and won't register anything.
  3. Check out Tim Easton Edit: also BJ Barham
  4. This looks like a Norlin Era Gibson J-45. It might have a replacement bridge - or that bridge just looks especially fresh in the pictures. How does it play? and does it have a narrow nut (it's difficult to tell from the pictures). Looks like a cool guitar Based on the serial number link below it's probably a 1969 model. Here's a link to serial number information Production year: 1966 or 1969 Manufactured in Kalamazoo Production year: 1974 - 1975 (if 'Made in USA' on headstock) This is from another thread: 1969 J-45 specs: Square shoulder dreadnought body shape. S
  5. That sounds right, i don't know how they juggle the model years but being made at the end of 2018 could definitely be an early run of 2019 guitars. you know how to decode the serial number right? If you happen to use a mac you can do the julian date translation on command line with "cal -j 2018" to get the day number.
  6. I can see the serial number across the top (i mean i can't read it but i can see that it's there) but it looks like there's something else embossed maybe an inch below it - could just be an artifact of the wood or something like that too.
  7. It looks good to me, this sounds like the guy at guitar center probably just screwed up and gave him the card from another guitar unfortunately. I can't really see in that picture but it looks like there's other printing on the back of the head stock. Sometimes it's very lightly embosses and once finished can be tough to see. How's is play and sound?
  8. I got a pretty noticeable increase in acoustic volume and general resonance. I guess having a partially loose tailpiece anchoring the strings makes a difference. who'd have thunk it?? 🤣 I just popped the strap on it and being able to confidently take it off an on is a real luxury with this thing. glad i went ahead and addressed this.
  9. I agree, i don't like those knobs either. What are the right ones to have on that guitar? I have a suspicion that i'm going to figure out that there's something wrong with the electronics which may lead to some parts substitution - is that a bad idea on a guitar like this?
  10. Thanks for the feedback and recommendations on my tailpiece questions the last couple of days, i figured i'd start a new thread for this topic. I have a '53 ES-175d with the original electronics installed, which include 2x p90s. The sound when plugged in is generally pretty dark and boomy (it's different using different amps, but generally always dark, and i can't change it significantly with the tone controls on the guitar or amp). Here are a few pictures of the guitar - i didn't realize the forums only allows 40kb of image attachments I don't really mess with this guitar too m
  11. I'm going to give the pencil a shot, seems like a good way to do it. i late leaving tape on there.
  12. I might have this all sorted out. I've had this guitar for maybe 5 years but i got it set up maybe 4 years ago and haven't adjusted it much since. I went ahead and pulled the tailpiece off tonight. 1 of the screw holes was mostly stripped, 1 was about to be stripped (really light grip) and the other was holding pretty well. I put a toothpick in each hole with some tightbond on it, snipped it off flush with the guitar body (under the tailpiece) and screwed them in - all 3 have a good tight bite now. Before doing that i reamed the endpin hole very lightly to make sure the hole matched a 5 d
  13. I'm kind of thinking the same. I could also plug the hole completely and install a screw in endpin like the modern Gibsons use. I don't want to do anything untoward here but i do want to not have to deal with the strap problem, and also not to drop it (that's kind of my highest priorty).
  14. The guitar hole is larger (slightly) than the tailpiece hole, so to get the endpin in at all the only thing holding it is the thin metal of the tailpiece and it immediately works its way loose. It's fine when i'm play it's when i put the guitar down for a minute it immediately falls out.
  15. Hi there, wondering if anyone can help me with this. I have a 50's ES-175d that i love, but the strap situation causes me frustration. I've been using a strap that attaches to the endpin and loops over the headstock, it works great and i use it on other acoustics as well. The root of the problem is that the hole in the guitar is a different size from the hole in the metal tailpiece, so basically the metal tailpiece is what's (not) holding the endpin in place. I'm nearly at the point of taking the tailpiece off, gluing and filling the hole in the guitar, and attaching a new screw-in endpin
×
×
  • Create New...