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About jchabalk

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  1. jchabalk

    ES-175 Endpin

    I got a pretty noticeable increase in acoustic volume and general resonance. I guess having a partially loose tailpiece anchoring the strings makes a difference. who'd have thunk it?? 🤣 I just popped the strap on it and being able to confidently take it off an on is a real luxury with this thing. glad i went ahead and addressed this.
  2. I agree, i don't like those knobs either. What are the right ones to have on that guitar? I have a suspicion that i'm going to figure out that there's something wrong with the electronics which may lead to some parts substitution - is that a bad idea on a guitar like this?
  3. Thanks for the feedback and recommendations on my tailpiece questions the last couple of days, i figured i'd start a new thread for this topic. I have a '53 ES-175d with the original electronics installed, which include 2x p90s. The sound when plugged in is generally pretty dark and boomy (it's different using different amps, but generally always dark, and i can't change it significantly with the tone controls on the guitar or amp). Here are a few pictures of the guitar - i didn't realize the forums only allows 40kb of image attachments I don't really mess with this guitar too much mostly because of the aforementioned tailpiece / endpin issues its had, but not that i've resolved them i want to spend a lot more time with it. It plays pretty similar to my J45 - which is very comfortable to me. So i'm wondering if there's a good starting polepiece height i can use - i've found advice on this online but it's all for modern guitars with modern humbucking pickups (so far). The guitar is strung with D'Addario XL 11-49 (w/ wound third) which were recommended to me when i bought it and i really like the way they feel (again, similar to an acoustic with the wound third). The pickups readings are a bit odd - and maybe are indicating a problem with the electronics The bridge pickup reads 9.1k ohms although if i roll the volume pot from 10 -> 5 -> 10 it'll jump to 14k and kind of slowly fall to ~10k ohms The neck pickup is reading 13.1 -14.2k ohms (it's bouncing around) In the middle position i get 6.2k ohms
  4. jchabalk

    ES-175 Endpin

    I'm going to give the pencil a shot, seems like a good way to do it. i late leaving tape on there.
  5. jchabalk

    ES-175 Endpin

    I might have this all sorted out. I've had this guitar for maybe 5 years but i got it set up maybe 4 years ago and haven't adjusted it much since. I went ahead and pulled the tailpiece off tonight. 1 of the screw holes was mostly stripped, 1 was about to be stripped (really light grip) and the other was holding pretty well. I put a toothpick in each hole with some tightbond on it, snipped it off flush with the guitar body (under the tailpiece) and screwed them in - all 3 have a good tight bite now. Before doing that i reamed the endpin hole very lightly to make sure the hole matched a 5 degree endpin i have, then built the endpin up a bit with sawdust and super glue until it stood proud of the tailpiece by about 1/8" - then scuffed up the new super glue layer a bit, put some titebond on it and rapped it home with the head of a screwdriver (i used this same method to fix the same problem i was having with a M-brand guitar). I brought the strings back up to tension and got the intonation pretty much spot on. I'm going to let it sit until the morning for the glue to cure. Is there a good way to mark the bridge position that doesn't leave a permanent mark? (I'll look around too, i just figured i'd ask here too).
  6. jchabalk

    ES-175 Endpin

    I'm kind of thinking the same. I could also plug the hole completely and install a screw in endpin like the modern Gibsons use. I don't want to do anything untoward here but i do want to not have to deal with the strap problem, and also not to drop it (that's kind of my highest priorty).
  7. jchabalk

    ES-175 Endpin

    The guitar hole is larger (slightly) than the tailpiece hole, so to get the endpin in at all the only thing holding it is the thin metal of the tailpiece and it immediately works its way loose. It's fine when i'm play it's when i put the guitar down for a minute it immediately falls out.
  8. jchabalk

    ES-175 Endpin

    Hi there, wondering if anyone can help me with this. I have a 50's ES-175d that i love, but the strap situation causes me frustration. I've been using a strap that attaches to the endpin and loops over the headstock, it works great and i use it on other acoustics as well. The root of the problem is that the hole in the guitar is a different size from the hole in the metal tailpiece, so basically the metal tailpiece is what's (not) holding the endpin in place. I'm nearly at the point of taking the tailpiece off, gluing and filling the hole in the guitar, and attaching a new screw-in endpin but i don't want to unnecessarily devalue the guitar. I'm not opposed to taking this to a luthier, just mostly looking for suggestions. I have the original 50s white plastic endpin but stopped using it in favor of a new ebony one since they all just keep falling out.
  9. That guitar was the 1369th guitar made on Friday February 16, 2007 YdddYNNNN YY = year (07=2007 etc) D=day of the year [1-365] (047 = 2/16/07) NNNN = guitar made that day (1369 = it was a long day of work on friday) To get the more detailed information you're looking for you need to contact Gibson customer service directly.
  10. It's the distant cousin to the Dove - the Gibson Pigeon. If you're not careful it'll poop on your head 😉
  11. yeah +1 - check out those vintage/true vintage ones before you make a decision. they're the cat's pajamas
  12. Haven't you guys seen the Gibson Guitarrón Mexicano line before? That looks like the GM-45 crossover model. slope with steel strings instead of gut 😎
  13. Some more pictures of the overall guitar - as well as the headstock - would be useful. Parts of it look good, parts of it looks suspicious (aka: not gibson) it's tough to tell from the images though.
  14. The apogee has a special cable connector right? I thought at some point they had a version with a mini usb connection on the MiC. An option to consider similar to that is the Blue Raspberry or the Shure MVx mics/interfaces (MV51) - these are both micro usb and usbc -> micro usb are readily available. I find at least with the ipad that i’m more apt to use it to record if i make it as simple as possible. Once i’ve got to bring a bunch of other stuff i tend to use a regular computer and audio interface.
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