Captain Bb Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 I'm thinking of putting locking tuners on my ES335 dot reissue. I'm thinking Gotoh or Grover but not sure which ones would fit from their respective ranges as a direct replacement for the Grovers already on there. Can anyone give me the heads-up as to which ones I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincentw Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 It should be 10mm hole size but thats all I can really advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Nahum Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 If you go here: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_solid_peghead_tuners.html you can see in overview what is available. (I'm sure others suppliers have similar. I'm just citing StewMac because they are the folk I deal with most. No affiliation other than being a happy customer.) If you drill down a couple of levels, you might get to this for instance: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_solid_peghead_tuners/Grover_Tuners/Grover_Deluxe_Keystones.html and if you click on the Specs tab, you will see this: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_solid_peghead_tuners/Grover_Tuners/Grover_Deluxe_Keystones.html?tab=Specs#details Similar specs are provided for all the tuners they stock. One of these can be handy: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Measuring_tools/Luthiers_Digital_Caliper.html As you will see, you will most likely need to drill new holes for the screws and fill and finish the old ones. Also, you might want to consider whether a prospective buyer would find locking tuners desirable if you decide to onsell the 335. RN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bb Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 Not looking to drill any holes in the headstock - just want direct replacements so I can put the stock ones back if I ever sell it (not that I'm thinking of ever doing that). Gotoh and Grover do locking tuners that will go straight on but I'll remove one of the stock Grovers and put a caliper on it to get the exact hole size so I know which model I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L5Larry Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 I don't understand why you would want, or need, locking tuners on a 335. What am I missing here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bb Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 Easier to change strings - simple as that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadioXGtr Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I bought a '94 ES-135 several weeks ago and noticed the tuners (nickel "Gibson Deluxe") were wiggly and one of the dust caps on the back actually lifted. It was clear that a repair was not going to be a practical fix, so I replaced them with the Tone Pros locking TPKB3L tuning machines. They were a perfect fit -- I even used the original "bolt bushing" ferrules. The locking caps take some getting used to, but the look is clean and the tuners are spot on in quality. Maybe not the best chouce for a showpiece, but it suits me just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob R Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Easier to change strings - simple as that. I can see that. Could turn a six minute job (one minute per string) into a five minute job. Maybe. How quickly can you change all six strings with locking tuners? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadioXGtr Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I can see that. Could turn a six minute job (one minute per string) into a five minute job. Maybe. How quickly can you change all six strings with locking tuners? My experience with a locking tuner is primarily with Sperzels, so there may be some tradeoff with the locking Klusons -- time willl tell. String changes themselves are pretty quick, but I never came close to 6 minutes with standard thru-hole pegs. In my case, the Bigsby makes it a 3 handed job (all thumbs, of course). Anyway, time savings in string replacement isn't the big deal -- the locking Sperzels seemed to help "set" the string quicker and hold tune better. Hopefully the locking Klusons should do the same. Again, I wouldn't put them on a specimen collector piece. If my 135 ever attains that status, it's an easily reversed process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob R Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 My experience with a locking tuner is primarily with Sperzels, so there may be some tradeoff with the locking Klusons -- time willl tell. String changes themselves are pretty quick, but I never came close to 6 minutes with standard thru-hole pegs. In my case, the Bigsby makes it a 3 handed job (all thumbs, of course). Anyway, time savings in string replacement isn't the big deal -- the locking Sperzels seemed to help "set" the string quicker and hold tune better. Hopefully the locking Klusons should do the same. Again, I wouldn't put them on a specimen collector piece. If my 135 ever attains that status, it's an easily reversed process. My Gretsch has a Bigsby. Just means I need to precurve the ball/pin end about 180 degrees before installation. Pull tight and secure string to fretboard with Kyser capo at the third fret. This gives me two hands to fiddle around at the peghead. Three frets gives me enough space to raise the string about one inch above fret board. Allows for a couple of turns, in addition to half around the peg and up for locking action. Cheap and effective. Besides, I've no other use for the capo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadioXGtr Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 My Gretsch has a Bigsby. Just means I need to precurve the ball/pin end about 180 degrees before installation. Pull tight and secure string to fretboard with Kyser capo at the third fret. This gives me two hands to fiddle around at the peghead. Three frets gives me enough space to raise the string about one inch above fret board. Allows for a couple of turns, in addition to half around the peg and up for locking action. Cheap and effective. Besides, I've no other use for the capo. Great tip on the capo -- that's like one of those "V-8" moments where you say "Why didn't I think of that??" Thanks!! I did try pre-bending the string and got stabbed by a bit that wasn't wrapped too tight . I'll use needle-nose pliers next time. Live and learn, I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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