Coronet Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 This is my guitar: My link I want to tail-piece to look like this: My link Is this possible structurally??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 It is possible - there is a block of wood running the length of that guitar that a stop tailpiece can be set into. You can see it through the f-holes. The block is ~100mm wide and Asian/metric stop tail posts are 82mm apart on center. Have you talked to a luthier about it? And I must ask, why do you want to get rid of the Frequensator? A lot of folks consider it a very desirable attribute of the Riviera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coronet Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Thanks a lot for the advice really appreciated, I wish to get rid of the frequensator because it will speed up string changing, the frequensator ensures the strings are exposed over a much longer are which has resulted in many accidents and strings getting broken. Is there any particular tail-piece that would be more suitable for installing than others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Any standard after-market TP will work although a lot of folks prefer TonePros: http://www.tonepros.com/products.htm Tonepros also sell locking studs which allow you to crank down on the TP after installation so a very tight connection with the guitar body which supposedly increases sustain. You'll probably want to use the metric versions since the rest of your hardware is metric. However, you may find that the stop tail will not reduce string breakage - that's usually due to the bridge saddles not being filed down correctly - a common issue on new guitars.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coronet Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 My local luthier has informed me: "I am not willing to risk drilling the guitar for a number of reasons, the softwood spine block is usually around 100 mm however it is often off centre preventing accurate placement of the tail stop coupled with the thick polyester finish the drill bit may side glance with undesirable results, removal of the split tail piece will result in a drop off in the bass end resonation". Is the true?, or do you think other luthiers would feel the same way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 My local luthier has informed me: "I am not willing to risk drilling the guitar for a number of reasons, the softwood spine block is usually around 100 mm however it is often off centre preventing accurate placement of the tail stop coupled with the thick polyester finish the drill bit may side glance with undesirable results, removal of the split tail piece will result in a drop off in the bass end resonation". Is this true?, or do you think other luthiers would feel the same way? He could measure the exact location of the block on your particular guitar and figure out whether the tail studs would land within the wood. Drilling into poly is always a bit of a risk, but the studs have flanges that cover the hole edges, so unless it was a large chip, unlikely to show. The change from a frequensator to stop tail is bound to change the tonal characteristics of the guitar, but I'm not sure if it would mean less bass, more, or the same, and I'm not sure what the luthier is basing this determination on. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt anyway. My guess is he just doesn't want to do it on principle, and I have to say I agree. That guitar was designed with a frequensator and if it were my guitar I would not change it for risk of damage and because it will diminish it's value. Why not buy a red Dot? They are plentiful, inexpensive, and you won't have to change anything unless you absolutely must have mini humbuker pickups. PS: I still think you could reduce string breakage substantially by having your luthier reshape the existing bridge saddles or installing plastic saddles: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coronet Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 Thanks for the advice, the dot does look nice, but then I am presented with the unenviable task of trying to sell my Rivera, which doesn't look particularly easy. If I was to sell my Riviera, having owned it for a year, and in great condition how much should I be looking to get for it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianh Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Not sure what the market is like in the UK, but it would be easy to sell in the states - they are not available here and are sought after. Check UK eBay completed sales for the same or similar Epiphone guitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supernova1281734074 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 In January, I missed out on 2 Peerless made Epiphone Rivieras with mini humbuckers. One was originally on Gumtree.co.uk, for £375, then it sold for £260/on ebay with a hard Epiphone case, anotherone from Peerless factory sold for £261.70 with gig bag. The Chineese made ones sold for £349 approx, Thomnann.De sold them at £335 with hard case, but they've not had any since about October. Your best bet is to put it on Ebay, for roughly what you want to get for it. They're quite common, the Chineese ones seem to have the correct pearloid shape on the headstock, like original vintage ones. The peerless ones had a gibson style shape on the headstock under the Epiphone, in between the 3 top bass/treblestrings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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