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badbluesplayer

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Posts posted by badbluesplayer

  1. I worked with a guy who used to start everything he said with "Whaddyacallit."  He'd be like "What do you call it, did you see the ladder?"  "Whaddyacallit, I'm getting some coffee."  "Whaddyacallit, see you tomorrow."

    We called him Whaddyacallit. 

  2. On 11/20/2023 at 3:56 PM, Farnsbarns said:

    Interesting, so there's an extra ferrule that screws down the bridge mount stud until it's locked? 

    That's quite clever. 

    Yes.  The thumbwheel is right under the bridge, like usual, but the ferrule screws right into the top of the bridge, nice and snug.  Some oomph was required on this guitar, 'cause the posts were a hair too far apart.  Worked out fine though.  These studs will accept any ABR type bridge.  I have a Tonepros bridge on my SG with the same studs.  I don't like the Tonepros as much, because it uses set screws to fix the bridge, and they bear against the threaded posts, which isn't really that great of a design.

  3. On 11/22/2023 at 11:48 AM, Strong Heavy said:

    I use Faber® iNsert™ studs, they are 6/32" upper threaded posts, ready for a  Gibson ABR-1 bridge or Faber® Historic bridge.

    Faber studs are firmly inserted into the body, the threaded rods and the guitar make only one, same result than a Gibson with a stock ABR-1. More sustain, good vibrations, an awesome upgrade.

     

    gibso137.jpg

     

     

     

    Yup.  Those are the anchors included in the kit.  6-32 threads, not 8-32 like I said.  They're the best part of the whole thing.  This is the third guitar I've used those studs on.  They really make the guitar sing.

  4. 33 minutes ago, IanHenry said:

    Obviously never been to Paris 😄

    Oh, I've been there once.  I asked the guy in the store for "un Marlboro" and he laughed about me all week.  Whaddya gonna do?  Their country is like 50 times older than ours.

  5. 30 minutes ago, Sgt. Pepper said:

    Named after a little red animal with a bushy tail.

    I used to live in Connecticut and they didn't like New Yorkers.  When I was like six, my mom cursed under her breath at some New Yorker who was taking up, like, six parking spaces.  I asked her why people didn't like New Yorkers and she said "They toot their horns too much."  Wasn't that the truth, lol.

  6. I'm not a virtue signaler when it comes to who I do business with.  I buy American stuff if it's worth it.  I buy the same foreign stuff that everybody buys.

    As far as the Ameri-rama stuff, I'm not on that wavelength.  Looks good on them, tho...

  7. "Go ahead" is what is says.  It follows an implied understanding.  "I'm going to go ahead and do it" follows some prior discussion or understanding of what "do it" is.

    You don't say "Go ahead and poke yourself in the eye" unless you just talked about poking yourself in the eye.  If you hadn't talked about it yet, you'd say "poke yourself in the eye."

    People who say "Go ahead and..." without any previous discussion of the topic usually have some kind of chip on their shoulder that makes them lash out.

    If you need any other insights about why Americans do stuff that's crazy, just ask.  I have to live with this sh!t, lol.

  8. I upgraded the bridge and tailpiece on my '22 LP Std. 60's to a Faber "Tone Lock" set with an aluminum tailpiece, in aged nickel.  It turned out fine.  Faber stuff is really nice.

    Here's the original modern ABR style bridge and tailpiece.  Newer USA guitars have Nashville style bridge anchors and they're adapted to the ABR bridge.  The bridge and tailpiece both rock a little -

    IaNosuD.jpg

    Faber hardware kit, including tools -

    TfRRvSm.jpg

    Old hardware removed -

    9WhF11A.jpg

    Removing old bridge post anchors -

    1jgmDqn.jpg

    Anchors removed -

    XX9WLus.jpg

    Setting the new post/anchors -

    wPgogjB.jpg

    New one-piece anchor/posts installed.  These posts are 8-32 threaded, just like normal ABR posts, so you can use the old bridge or any other ABR bridge -

    IRCjiKt.jpg

    New bridge and tailpiece installed -

    fOAV0Et.jpg

    Nice!  Action is still maybe a little high.  The bridge and tailpiece lock really solid.  I like the Faber stuff better than Tonepros.  The tailpiece has different sized spacers that go under the tailpiece so you can get the right break angle over the bridge and still have the whole thing locked solid to the body.  The bridge is way more solid than the old hardware, and the guitar sounds a little different.  I'll probably notch the saddles a little more.

    0k89YME.jpg

     

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  9. 21 hours ago, Sgt. Pepper said:

    How are any of those statements about me?

    Here's a short list that you can start working on.

    You got some serious issues, boss.  Anonymity is your shield from reality.  You're not Mr. Congeniality.  Half of what you say is about some kind of problem you have with somebody.  What you just said is what a twelve year old says.

    The first thing you say to a new poster on here is some kind of insult.  

    I have an electrical problem I was going to ask you about but I don't need your help that bad.

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  10. 23 hours ago, fortyearspickn said:

    BBP -   I have a near identical one. Had it for 52 years.  Toothpick on the other side of the tweezer?   I foolishly used the blade to pry something and put a very small bend in it, but the hinge thingy held up 100%.    Learned you NEVER use a knife as a pry bar, screw driver, shovel, etc.   Even if it says it's a 'multi-tool'.  

    That thing is about 50 to 52 years old.  Same model year, maybe...

    • Confused 1
  11. Peavey stuff never breaks down much.

    Here's my '66 Kalamazoo Model 1.  Kalamazoo was a Gibson brand, I guess.  It has a volume control and a on/tone control, lol.  I rewired the volume and tone from the old tone-suck circuit so it's like a Fender Deluxe and it's killer.

    2bmbhv8.jpg

    Here's my '48-'49 Gibson BR-6.  It was a basket case when I bought it -

    kObACGl.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  12. Yesterday I finally stopped my '72 Princeton Reverb from farting out - splatting - at high volume.  It did it for 51 years until I finally won the battle yesterday.  I've had this thing for about five years and fiiiiiiinally fixed it!  I tried fartproofing it using all the usual ways that the best guys in the business use, and it didn't stop the splatting.  It was the darndest thing.  Only happened with the cable running TO the reverb tank plugged in, whether or not the return cable was plugged in.  That's messed up!.  It ended up being some kind of oscillation between the input side of the reverb and something else.  It was also affected by vibration from the cabinet, so I couldn't get it to act up very much it with the chassis removed, and I couldn't trace the signal with a scope to see where the problem was.  Ultimately solved it when I tidied up some wiring and replaced a couple wires on the board with shielded wires so they didn't interact.  Now I can crank it to 10 and it just slobbers like it should!

    Mf9H1gl.jpg

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