badbluesplayer

Wow!! Nice. Make sure you use a nitro-safe guitar stand for it.

I did it online. No big deal. They just want to know names and a little basic info. I remember ignoring the last one 'cause it had a bunch of BS questions. I figured I'd do it this time so we can get all that cash - or whatever you get - coming our way, lol.

When you say it's noisy, what is the noise like? Humming? Crackling?

One of my wife's drunken-broad friends who's always getting sick went into the hospital yesterday with pneumonia and got tested. Her and some of my wife's other dopey friends had some kind of party Saturday night. I think it's time to start wearing one of those masks when I go to the grocery store and music stores. I have a couple in the shop that I use for woodworking. I need to go to a pawn shop today. It's going to be sketchy. I'll have to bring my UV germ detector, like this one -

So sorry to hear that Ray. I'm glad everybody's safe. Hang in there.

Uh huh!!

United States must be a good place to go to have a phony marriage. I know a few guys who got tripped up by that kind of thing.

I'd have to see a pic of the inside to tell if you could install a standby switch. They make this 3 position switch, an "on-on-off" type, that you'd use to replace the existing switch. The key is to figure out where to hook up the wires that are switched on and off by the standby function. They'd be some red wires running to the output transformer. https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/switch-carling-toggle-dpst-3-position-play-stdby

There is no doubt that the old button was torn out and that the finish came off with it. See how the cracking around the button is beveled at 45 degrees. That's called diagonal tension stress cracking and it can only happen when something punches through the finish. So that guitar has been damaged and repaired. Too bad. If it was me, I'd send it back.

The new ABR-1 bridges are kind of loose compared to the regular ABR-1 bridge. I don't really like them. I guess there must be a labor savings with the new style, cause the old style ones are probably a little harder to install.

Nice!!!

I wish we had levels where I work.

Amp's all set. It was smoking, and if it's smokin', it's broken. Replaced a bunch of stuff, fixed a place on the board that was burned. Made it run cooler, added a chassis mounted input jack. Chassis was bent when somebody jammed it back in the cabinet without removing the side bolt. Some other stuff. I hope it holds!! You don't need a call-back because your customer's amp just took a dump in some big session or show or something. 😰

I think this is the schematic here - http://www.0rigami.com/gg/GA-5.pdf

Good eye! That's reversed, alright. And it does look original. When you do the three prong plug, make sure you run the hot (black) wire from the new cord to the tip of the fuse, then from the side of the fuse to the switch, and then to the transformer and back to the white wire on the new cord. That's to make sure the fuse is on the hot wire instead of on the neutral wire, like they used to do with the two prong plugs. The blue filter cap isn't original. I can't make sense of the wiring, but it looks a little sketchy. The hot leads should be shielded. I'm not sure if there is an artificial ground on the filament wiring. I don't see one. If not, you might want to put a pair of 100 ohm resistors - one from each lead on the pilot light, to ground. That will help with hum. Good luck!