cosmitron

Because it means: DRILLING a 43 years old guitar that hasn't been modded yet. I'd like to find a no-harm solution :- Post#5 : how the epiphone Tremotone works

I'd say that's a good alternative. I've tried to use a tailpiece but the Wilshire body is TOO thin and the string tension is too high. As soon as I'll have some time to spend I'll bring it to a guitar doctor, or a jeweler for the milling Fix. Meanwhile, I get use to it - high action - though the High E string keeps popping when I'm getting rude. Here's a little clip, featuring the wilshire plugged in a Cornford Roadhouse 30 (Apartment Master Volume Level). [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

I'm unearthing the topic but... ...I've received the Schaller roller bridge.. and its installation needs to drill the beautiful weather checked body. So I'm looking for another solution. What if I bought something like this?

Finally got an answer from Mr DAGUET. It is nearly impossible to flip the swivel bar... without losing the system for good. For the record, the cylindrical bar that pass through the swivel stop tail and the whole fixed part also acts as a spring. And btw, removing the 2 pins means killing them definitely, because it's probably too old and oxidized. He suggests to drill notches in the stop tail at the opposite side instead of flipping it, or, live with it. :-

I've raised the strings while waiting, and I must admit I'm getting used to it. Here's another soundclip: Wilshire Boulevard

But you used different words. (just kidding )

Thank you guys! Simply put I have 2 choices, bring it to a qualified guitar tech or just raise the action and live with it! Meanwhile, I've recorded a mini song with the Wilshire and think it could be nice to share. :- Wilshire's Ballad

Muskron> the body/neck angle is approx. 2°. So the" virtual straight frets line" goes over the trem. Not quite sure it's enough though. After some googling, it appears that 2°-3° neck/body angle, is pretty common on lp JR and SG. I guess they didn't mind a high action in the 60s!

jonnyg>well you know, the 67 Wilshire was already an auto-Christmas Gift... Musikron>Thanks that totally makes sense. I had a second thought about the neck set after I took the pictures. So yes I'll definitely check the neck/body angle. :) I can see the light!

yes! I've read it yesterday! Makes me gas for a back up. (though I have too many guitars already)

Now I think the tiny pins are passing through each part where they're visible.

here's a 3D view. Please notice that I don't know how it is inside the bar I'd like to flip.

That's what I did already (since the picture has been taken), I could raise it more but it would make it really a pain to play. (I'm no shredding on this old lady the low E string is 3mm from the 12th fret)

The only part you've missed is that if I raise the bridge, strings height would make it feel like a cheap acoustic guitar setup. (I mean I need to put my left hand fingers upon the strings, not under :)). Otherwise I think you've got it. ;) I'm actually modeling the whole bridge unit in 3D so maybe it would be more understandable.

No it isn't, I wish it was screwed! ;) It's a cylindrical bar that goes all the way through the Vibrola. I think that's the key part I should remove to flip the swivel stop bar.

That's the problem! The strings don't pass through it but around it. No choice! Here's a picture which helps to understand the way it works. And here's another so you could figure why strings are popping out from the saddle when I'm acting like Pete Townshend. Flipping the swivel Bar would allow to pass the strings under it, and so, creating an angle at the saddle place, preventing the strings from popping out. You'll understand I don't want to raise the strings height, because it plays so smooth like it is. The problem is I have found no way to remove that swivel bar, but I've seen pictures where you can clearly see that mod been done. I'm in need of tips ^^ BTW, getting another bridge with deeper saddle slots could do the trick. But I don't want to spend too much without learning knowledge from other users. :-

Thanks! I'm glad to be here ^^. I own 3 Gibson, with 2 CS. But none has the vibe and mojo of this dirty little €piphone! The Mini buckers are so "Rock"! (I'm playing it through a Vox AC30CC2X and a Cornford Roadhouse 30. This old lady makes me more feel and mostly act like I'm Pete Townshend) It also makes me wonder what the 66' worn Ri sounds like. -Christmas time, Gas is at his highest level. But first, I'm hoping to find a simple and harmless solution for the string pop issue. Any suggestions?

Hi everyone! I'm new to the Epiphone forum, but not new to Epiphone :P I've owned korean and japanese €piphone guitars through the years, and now I bought this: A 1967 USA Kalamazoo made, Wilshire. The only change I've noticed so far is the planned frets, otherwise everything is original. (except the strings: A crappy buzz in 9-42 string gauge that disappeared with a good 10-52, my favorite.) There's something that bothers me about the Maestro, though I love the way it looks. Its system requires me to pass the strings above the swivel bar. Therefore, the angle of the strings at the abr1 saddles is virtually zero. This causes many inconveniences such as "heaving ropes" when my playing goes crude or inaudible amplified vibrations but somewhat unpleasant sensation. The first solution that came to my mind is to flip the swivel bar 180° to pass the strings under it and by this way, lower the strings. But after removing the trem*o*tone, I quickly realized I couldn't do it without a little knowledge about the system itself. I need tips to remove it for example. Has anyone already done this - flipping the swivel bar ? Any ideas? BTW, a friend suggested to buy a schaller stm bridge, because according to him, strings are better anchored in the saddles. Any thoughts?