ES 335 Neck Angle

[mtown]

Hello, My 1st post here. I thought this would be a good place to find some answers. I have an 2012 ES 335 plain top. To get the action where I want it I have raise the bridge fairly high. The post are only showing about half through the bridge. The action is on the average side actually maybe low for some players. Is this because of the neck angle? It doesn't affect tone or playability but aesthetically it doesn't look as good. I've also raised the tailpiece to account for the high bridge. Is this common on the newer 335's? Thanks

[bobouz]

I have two 335s, and they both ride pretty high.

Personally, I like them that way.

[badbluesplayer]

Hello, My 1st post here. I thought this would be a good place to find some answers. I have an 2012 ES 335 plain top. To get the action where I want it I have raise the bridge fairly high. The post are only showing about half through the bridge. The action is on the average side actually maybe low for some players. Is this because of the neck angle? It doesn't affect tone or playability but aesthetically it doesn't look as good. I've also raised the tailpiece to account for the high bridge. Is this common on the newer 335's? Thanks

That doesn't seem right. There are two things you have to do to get the action right. You said you adjusted the bridge. But before you do that, you need to get the neck relief right. That's how much the neck is bowed upward.

 

If you fret each string at the first and 15th frets, there should be a tiny space between each string and the frets halfway between the 1st and 15th frets. Just a very small space, about the thickness of a piece of paper. The relief is adjusted with the trussrod. Then, once the relief is right, then you can set the action by adjusting the bridge.

 

The situation you describe could possibly be caused by there not being enough relief in the neck.

[mtown]

That doesn't seem right. There are two things you have to do to get the action right. You said you adjusted the bridge. But before you do that, you need to get the neck relief right. That's how much the neck is bowed upward.

 

If you fret each string at the first and 15th frets, there should be a tiny space between each string and the frets halfway between the 1st and 15th frets. Just a very small space, about the thickness of a piece of paper. The relief is adjusted with the trussrod. Then, once the relief is right, then you can set the action by adjusting the bridge.

 

The situation you describe could possibly be caused by there not being enough relief in the neck.

Thanks for your suggestion. The neck is very straight. I'll check that I don't have it too convex. That very well could be the problem. I'll be sure to get back to you and let you know. Thanks

[mtown]

That doesn't seem right. There are two things you have to do to get the action right. You said you adjusted the bridge. But before you do that, you need to get the neck relief right. That's how much the neck is bowed upward.

 

If you fret each string at the first and 15th frets, there should be a tiny space between each string and the frets halfway between the 1st and 15th frets. Just a very small space, about the thickness of a piece of paper. The relief is adjusted with the trussrod. Then, once the relief is right, then you can set the action by adjusting the bridge.

 

The situation you describe could possibly be caused by there not being enough relief in the neck.

I did as you suggested putting a capo on the 1st fret and pressing down on the 15th fret. I could not slide a piece of paper under the strings. I loosened the truss rod about a 1/4 turn, waited till the next day and could easily slide the paper under the strings. I could lower the action a little bit, but not much. I could probably go a little lower but it starts to fret out about the 15th fret. It's not something I can't live with but I think the neck angle could have been a little more shallower to get better bridge height. Thanks for your help.