Anyone know more info on this V

[Dprice]

I have ebony V # F083

I’m enjoying all the posts on the heritage V.  Great information 

 

Edited March 19, 2022 by Dprice
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[Fitz]

On 9/17/2019 at 1:48 PM, Eric Thompson said:

Your not going to believe this. I was the origanal owner of that guitar. I bought it from Mahoney music. In Las Vegas Nevada wear i still live ive been searching the internet for years trying to find it. A girlfriend (pyscho) pawned it while i was in jaili will send pics if this forum allows if you ever want to sell it im down and anything you want to know about it just ask . does it still have. Emgs or has someone switched thoae out? 

Hey Eric, I was looking online and saw my old post from years ago. That's crazy. I still have the guitar. It made its way to Northern Ireland.

[Sheepdog1969]

On 12/12/2013 at 9:30 AM, Fitz said:

Hi

 

I am new to this forum. I have a Heritage black flying v from 1982/3. I am trying to find out more info on this guitar and when I check the internet I can't get the info I am looking.

 

I had been looking for a korina flying v for so long. I was searching magazines and phoning vintage shops in London and eventually I found one. "1982, factory black, gold hardware, very good condition and excellent tone" the guy said on the phone. "Original case and it is one of twenty they made in black."

 

I told him it sounded good but what I really wanted was a Natural korina 82 v and not really the black. He sent some photos to me in the mail and I had a chance to look at the guitar. I left it for another month or so but still couldn't find the v I wanted. They seem so hard to find so I called the guy and they still had it and afew days later my "new" 1982 korina flying v arrived.

 

What a guitar! Stunning! Now, the guitar had been used, afew dings but they add to the character. I just found myself staring at the guitar, she is so alluring. The serial number also gave more credibility to the wiff of BS 1/20 I was told by the salesman trying to make a sale. G 012 Painted on the back of the headstock and made in USA stamped.

 

I have trawled the internet looking for anything to back up this one of twenty story.

 

1981 to 1983 Heritage Flying V's

The guitars have an inked serial number preceeded by a letter

 

Serial Number

Annn 1981

Bnnn 1981 - 1982

Cnnn 1982 - 1983

Dnnn 1983

 

It goes on to say that in 81 on red and natural were made 83 nat red blk and white. so is mine an 83 because in 84 only white was available.

(http://www.flying-v.ch/numbers/numbers.html)

 

Any help would be great.

Thanks for reading

I just read your post and I have extensive knowledge about '83 Heritage and Custom Shop Edition Explorers. I have a '83 CSE Korina Explorer, btw, purchased new and verified. Admittedly, I have far lass knowledge about the Korina '83 V's. However, No '83 Heritages had Gold hardware, nor did any CSE versions have Ivory/plastic tuning knobs. I noticed no markings on the tuners and the type of tuners are not the type Heritages or CSE's came with. From my understanding, no Heritages from '83 were painted, and all were natural. Heritages did come with "inked" serial numbers and CSE '83 Korina's has "pressed serial numbers" and "pressed" Made in USA markings AND inked two color (gold and black) Custom Shop Edition "banner logo's". The 20 black '83 production amounts matched exactly how many '83 black CSE Korina Explorers were made. There are far to many inconsistencies in the pictures you posted for me to believe your V is a '83 Heritage, a '83 CSE, let alone a Korina. If the "inked" serial numbers, when checked via the Gibson site, match a Heritage V, I would surmise someone simply used real numbers to make a forgery seem real, and this happens quite often. I can't even see any "Made in USA" markings. Additionally, I'm 99% sure the hardware is not 24K Gold (which all CSE models came with) due to how they have corroded/tarnished. 1983 Heritage Korina V's run between $25,000 to $50,000 plus, and no one would ever consider painting one, or replacing the Silver colored hardware with Fake/non Gibson hardware (like the tuning machines in your pictures), nor would it be possible to paint a Heritage, yet somehow not paint over the inked serial number. '83 Korina Heritages are so rare and so hard to even find pictures of, no one would ever thing of devaluing one by doing anything to it at all! '83 Custom Shop Edition Korina's, about half of which were painted, run between $15,000 to $50,000, so the same applies. But your V cannot be a '83 CSE, (or any year CSE) because there is no pressed serial number and no "pressed" Made in USA marking. The finish does not appear to be "nitro" either. In my opinion, you have a fake, especially if the "inked" serial number indicates it is a Heritage, which it defiantly is not.  The tuners alone, (no Gibson markings), scream fake/forgery. Hope you didn't pay too much for it.  

[PrairieDog]

2 hours ago, Sheepdog1969 said:

I just read your post and I have extensive knowledge about '83 Heritage and Custom Shop Edition Explorers. I have a '83 CSE Korina Explorer, btw, purchased new and verified. Admittedly, I have far lass knowledge about the Korina '83 V's. However, No '83 Heritages had Gold hardware, nor did any CSE versions have Ivory/plastic tuning knobs. I noticed no markings on the tuners and the type of tuners are not the type Heritages or CSE's came with. From my understanding, no Heritages from '83 were painted, and all were natural. Heritages did come with "inked" serial numbers and CSE '83 Korina's has "pressed serial numbers" and "pressed" Made in USA markings AND inked two color (gold and black) Custom Shop Edition "banner logo's". The 20 black '83 production amounts matched exactly how many '83 black CSE Korina Explorers were made. There are far to many inconsistencies in the pictures you posted for me to believe your V is a '83 Heritage, a '83 CSE, let alone a Korina. If the "inked" serial numbers, when checked via the Gibson site, match a Heritage V, I would surmise someone simply used real numbers to make a forgery seem real, and this happens quite often. I can't even see any "Made in USA" markings. Additionally, I'm 99% sure the hardware is not 24K Gold (which all CSE models came with) due to how they have corroded/tarnished. 1983 Heritage Korina V's run between $25,000 to $50,000 plus, and no one would ever consider painting one, or replacing the Silver colored hardware with Fake/non Gibson hardware (like the tuning machines in your pictures), nor would it be possible to paint a Heritage, yet somehow not paint over the inked serial number. '83 Korina Heritages are so rare and so hard to even find pictures of, no one would ever thing of devaluing one by doing anything to it at all! '83 Custom Shop Edition Korina's, about half of which were painted, run between $15,000 to $50,000, so the same applies. But your V cannot be a '83 CSE, (or any year CSE) because there is no pressed serial number and no "pressed" Made in USA marking. The finish does not appear to be "nitro" either. In my opinion, you have a fake, especially if the "inked" serial number indicates it is a Heritage, which it defiantly is not.  The tuners alone, (no Gibson markings), scream fake/forgery. Hope you didn't pay too much for it.  

hmmm…. Did you see the post where the former owner said he bought it new from a shop?  Maybe that fellow had the original that the fake (if it is a fake) was made after, since Gibson confirmed the serial number.   

However, rethe gold plating pitting: pure 24k is so soft you can dent it with your finger nail.  It would just rub/scratch off in short order.  I’m guessing there must be an alloy involved.  Sweat (salt) and electricity creates an electrolysis condition that can pit even high grade metals.  

I have seen first hand how Gibson gold plating pits, tragically on a 72 Flying V reissue medallion series, bought at the time from a very rep store.  

After a few years, the medallion had developed a little patina/pitting and some idiot told my buddy to take some Brasso to it to shine it back up. Took the plating right off.  Doh.  

[Sheepdog1969]

11 hours ago, PrairieDog said:

hmmm…. Did you see the post where the former owner said he bought it new from a shop?  Maybe that fellow had the original that the fake (if it is a fake) was made after, since Gibson confirmed the serial number.   

However, rethe gold plating pitting: pure 24k is so soft you can dent it with your finger nail.  It would just rub/scratch off in short order.  I’m guessing there must be an alloy involved.  Sweat (salt) and electricity creates an electrolysis condition that can pit even high grade metals.  

I have seen first hand how Gibson gold plating pits, tragically on a 72 Flying V reissue medallion series, bought at the time from a very rep store.  

After a few years, the medallion had developed a little patina/pitting and some idiot told my buddy to take some Brasso to it to shine it back up. Took the plating right off.  Doh.  

Yup, I saw the post from the guy who said he had purchased it, and I truly think he bought a fake. Regarding the Gold, I am basing my comment on how the 24K gold hardware on my '83 CSE Korina Explorer aged. Mine did not "pit", but rather wore down, for lack of a better description. Not sure what type of Gold is on the '72 reissue, but I don't think the '72 reissue is a CSE, so the Gold plating probably is not the same 24K as on my '83 Explorer CSE, (or other CSE models.) Literally everything on the V in question is wrong, (Based on my decades of research on the '83 Korina Heritages/CSE Explorers)

Below is a link to one of my posts about '83 Korina Heritages and CSE Explorers . Check out the pictures, in this link, of the Gold hardware on my '83 CSE Explorer to see what I mean. There are no "pits", as you will see. (The pics are posted a few replies down from my original post, btw.)

https://forum.gibson.com/topic/170547-1983-gibson-heritage-explorer-confusionmisidentification/#comment-2162042

 

Edited February 11 by Sheepdog1969

[Sheepdog1969]

[PrairieDog]

47 minutes ago, Sheepdog1969 said:

Hey, that’s really nice.  My buddy also had a Moderne same vintage. Similar appointments, as I recall. But it’s been years.  He had to let that one go during a rough spot and is still kicking himself over it.  Still has the Medallion V though.  

 

[Sheepdog1969]

4 hours ago, PrairieDog said:

 

Sorry to hear about your friend's Moderne, that hurts. Glad to hear the V is still part of his family.

Hey, if you have some time, could you review the info I detailed in the post (link) about '83 Korina Heritages/CSE's. You seem to have quite a bit of knowledge about Gibson's that I don't, (and it appears you have some friends who know quite a bit as well). You will note that I did not have the specific names/types of tuners, pick ups, etc. in that post. I had hoped someone would help me with that, so I could update the info I had posted, (fill in the blanks as it were). Heck, I still am unsure what type of tuners are on my '83, or the exact type of covered humbuckers I have, let alone the specs on the pots/electronics. I would be grateful for any help you could offer. ttyl sir. 

Edited February 11 by Sheepdog1969

[PrairieDog]

10 hours ago, Sheepdog1969 said:

Sorry to hear about your friend's Moderne, that hurts. Glad to hear the V is still part of his family.

Hey, if you have some time, could you review the info I detailed in the post (link) about '83 Korina Heritages/CSE's. You seem to have quite a bit of knowledge about Gibson's that I don't, (and it appears you have some friends who know quite a bit as well). You will note that I did not have the specific names/types of tuners, pick ups, etc. in that post. I had hoped someone would help me with that, so I could update the info I had posted, (fill in the blanks as it were). Heck, I still am unsure what type of tuners are on my '83, or the exact type of covered humbuckers I have, let alone the specs on the pots/electronics. I would be grateful for any help you could offer. ttyl sir. 

Aww, heck, you are giving me way too much credit.  You already run circles around me.  But I will ask my buddy, he’s got the encyclopedia in his brain.  I only have bits of very specific knowledge/memories.  I was there when he “polished” off the medallion plating, so that trauma is kinda fused in my brain.  And I know metals… so it gives the illusion of a bad case of all “strings, no guitar.” 😄

Way back in the last century I just was lucky to be hanging out with some folks who had some cool guitars.  We also hung out at a couple super cool music stores and the owners liked to show off the hot/rare things that came through.  This, and it was the 70s or so, and much of it didn’t make it into the distracted braincells 😆 TTYS 

[Sheepdog1969]

On 2/10/2024 at 8:54 AM, PrairieDog said:

After a few years, the medallion had developed a little patina/pitting and some idiot told my buddy to take some Brasso to it to shine it back up. Took the plating right off.  Doh.  

Hey, I forgot to mention something my go to set up guy told me about "polishing/cleaning" Gold hardware. (I learned this trick after I took the pics of my Explorer, so I will endeavor to post a couple new ones of the hardware after I "cleaned" the Gold.) Obviously, this method works better, and is more complete, if the Gold plated parts to be cleaned are removed from the guitar and placed on a soft towel to avoid scratches while cleaning. However, I chose to leave my hardware in place, save for the stop bar, and cleaned them during a string change.   Be aware, this process is a bit weird, but it seems to work. (This method is intended for use on 24K Gold, and is generally effective on 18K Gold. Lesser quality/purity Gold may require different "solvents" (such as baking soda, for example), to remove tarnish/oxidation. Using baking soda, or any solvent on Gold, may permanently damage the material and should only be applied by a professional! Please read all instruction before attempting this method, including the metallurgical specifics outlined below.) 

First, wash your hands well, making sure to dry them with a new/clean towel. He then told me to use a dry microfiber cloth to gently wipe down the Gold hardware, just to remove and oils, dust, etc., from them. He warned me not to "scrub" them with the dry microfiber cloth, just use light pressure to wipe them off a bit. He said not to expect this "wipe down" to  do very much. He even said not to even try to remove gunk, (like sticky spots left by mystery fluids like beer, soda, sneezes, etc.), at this stage. Once this first wipe down is completed, he said to get a new/clean microfiber cloth, and not to reuse the first cloth on your guitar until it has been cleaned/washed.

Now this is the weird part. He said to go wash your hands again and brush your teeth and tongue thoroughly. Yup, he wasn't kidding. Then he said to rinse your mouth thoroughly with water until you cannot taste the toothpaste you used anymore. Then, while keeping the new/clean microfiber cloth handy, he said to choose a pickup cover, or a single tuning machine, etc., (just one small part of the Gold hardware at a time), to start with. Next, touch the pad of your index finger (where your finger prints are), to your tongue to slightly wet it with saliva, (not to much), and then gently rub the surface of the Gold hardware you chose to start with in little circles, like waxing a car. He said to think of your finger prints (the ridges and swirls), as the "abrasive", and the saliva as the lubricant and the cleaning solution. Apparently, saliva has a pH that is not overly harsh (corrosive), when used on Gold, yet is just strong enough, (when used as directed), to remove gunk and tarnish. He indicated that I will want to have a clean rag nearby that is dampened with bottled/purified water, to wipe the debris removed the Gold hardware that will build up on your finger pad each time it begins to "get dry" and needs to be remoistened. He said I should expect to be able to polish with my little finger swirls for about 3-5 seconds before the saliva needs to be reapplied. (More than 5 seconds means you are using to much saliva.) So, about every 5 seconds, wipe your finger pad on the wet cloth to remove the build up of transferred gunk, then dry your finger pad on a clean cloth (not the /new clean microfiber you set nearby, btw, as it needs to stay clean to buff the hardware shortly.), then touch the finger pad to your tongue and repeat. (I assure you, you will only forget to wipe off and dry your finger pad once, prior to touching it to your tongue again, since it doesn't taste very good.) On parts like pickup covers, he recommends doing a light initial pass, focusing on any sticky areas and/or surface gunk ( foreign contaminate), and not the tarnish.  Your finger will defiantly feel this irregular build up, if it is present. The goal is to use the saliva in combination with gentle swirls of your finger pad, to loosen and break down this contaminant before using the new/clean microfiber cloth to easily wipe off said, without using the cloth to actually dislodge contamination by "buffing".  The cloth also is used to remove any remaining remnants of saliva upon completion of the part/section of the Gold hardware being cleaned. I tend to be overly cautious, since I had neglected by Gold hardware for so long because I had no idea how to clean it, so I worked very small sections at a time. I would do half a pick up cover at a time, a quarter of the stop bar at a time, etc.,  until that section's surface felt like I had removed all the non tarnish gunk/crud from the Gold. The idea is to get the surface to the point where it is only Gold and Gold tarnish, and then lightly wipe off the section with a dry microfiber cloth to remove the remaining saliva & filth film completely. At this point, you will defiantly see a difference. The next step is to repeat this process again to reduce tarnish. If your guitar's Gold hardware has just oxidized/tarnished, and has little to no oil and crud build up, this first pass will have already begun to restore the Gold's luster considerably. Even filthy hardware like mine will show quite a shine after the first pass.

The next step simply repeats this process again, but this time in an attempt to reduce the dark discoloring tarnish on the surface of the plating. In this process, less is always more. This tends to be a long process, especially for hardware that has been neglected. But, the results are amazing, and the cost is near zero, (save for your time).

This process is not intended to be used repeatedly, and should only be used to restore neglected gold plated hardware.

As detailed below, it is possible to inadvertently remove Gold plating if caution is not employed while utilizing this method.  It is important to gently and completely remove any and all saliva, oils from hands and body, and/or any other material that may be in contact with the Gold plating upon completion of this process. Do not use water, purified or otherwise, on Gold plated surfaces, unless specifically directed to by a qualified metallurgist and luthier. 

Lower karat Gold will be nearly impossible to restore completely, and "pits" cannot be restored/eliminated with this process.

Be warned that areas of Gold plated hardware that have begun to show/expose the underlying base metal, prior to this cleaning method, should be addressed with extreme sensitivity, as this method will undoubtedly accentuate these "bare/extremely thin plated" areas. Gold plating only creates a thin layer of Gold, measured in microns (micrometers). Every time thin plated Gold surfaces are touched/rubbed, Gold (atoms)  are dislodged/removed/transferred. Gold is quite soft, especially as it's purity increases. 24K Gold is considered "pure", yet is far softer, (mailable) than 14K Gold, which is less pure since it is an alloy mixed with other metals. Additionally, Gold tarnish (oxidation) actually is a myth, as Gold atoms do not readily react with Oxygen and/or Sulphur, the main causes of metal oxidation. (Gold is one of the least reactive chemical elements known to man.)  Another myth about Gold relates to purity. 14K Gold is 58.5% pure Gold, 18K Gold is 75% pure, and 24K Gold  is 100% pure Gold. Tarnish/corrosion (oxidation) happens to the percentage of metal(s) that make up the remaining percentage of Gold alloys like 14K and 18K, yet lower karat Gold is harder than higher karat Gold. 14K Gold will eventually tarnish (oxidize) and pit, quite quickly if not maintained, but it is far harder to scratch/damage due to contact.  24K Gold should be nearly impervious to oxidation, but it is soft (like Lead), so it is easily marred,  scratched, deformed, and impossible to be worn as jewelry and/or used as plating. Save for Gold bars and bullion, 24K is NOT used for Jewelry or electroplating guitar hardware, regardless of what labels claim. (hence the myth). Said Jewelry and plating actually are Gold alloys that are nearly 24K pure, and as such, will tarnish (but to a lesser degree). 24K Gold plating (non coated) may become/appear "dull" in areas that receive repetitive contact, despite not exhibiting signs of tarnish (oxidation). This typically is due to the soft metal incurring micro scratches from said contact, thus reducing the reflectivity of it's surface in those areas. In order to maintain the luster of Gold plated materials, it is imperative  that all said surfaces be gently "wiped down" with a clean, soft, microfiber cloth after each use, with special attention given to any areas that came in contact with skin, hair, or other materials or substances. These surfaces, regardless of use, should be "wiped down" in the same fashion every few months as a preventative measure.

Worn Gold plated hardware can be re-plated, with out stripping the remaining Gold. (No need to have to buy new hardware). It is also possible to request the replating to be applied "thicker" than the original plating, in terms of microns of thickness. Be aware that these increases in plating thickness will effect tolerances in critical areas of your guitar.  Consult with an experienced luthier before modifying plating thickness.

 

Edited February 16 by Sheepdog1969

[PrairieDog]

Thanks, Sheep, all good to know and a nice description of the process.  I’m still trying to catch up with my buddy.  We keep being busy at the wrong times to chat.  

[Fitz]

On 2/10/2024 at 12:06 PM, Sheepdog1969 said:

I just read your post and I have extensive knowledge about '83 Heritage and Custom Shop Edition Explorers. I have a '83 CSE Korina Explorer, btw, purchased new and verified. Admittedly, I have far lass knowledge about the Korina '83 V's. However, No '83 Heritages had Gold hardware, nor did any CSE versions have Ivory/plastic tuning knobs. I noticed no markings on the tuners and the type of tuners are not the type Heritages or CSE's came with. From my understanding, no Heritages from '83 were painted, and all were natural. Heritages did come with "inked" serial numbers and CSE '83 Korina's has "pressed serial numbers" and "pressed" Made in USA markings AND inked two color (gold and black) Custom Shop Edition "banner logo's". The 20 black '83 production amounts matched exactly how many '83 black CSE Korina Explorers were made. There are far to many inconsistencies in the pictures you posted for me to believe your V is a '83 Heritage, a '83 CSE, let alone a Korina. If the "inked" serial numbers, when checked via the Gibson site, match a Heritage V, I would surmise someone simply used real numbers to make a forgery seem real, and this happens quite often. I can't even see any "Made in USA" markings. Additionally, I'm 99% sure the hardware is not 24K Gold (which all CSE models came with) due to how they have corroded/tarnished. 1983 Heritage Korina V's run between $25,000 to $50,000 plus, and no one would ever consider painting one, or replacing the Silver colored hardware with Fake/non Gibson hardware (like the tuning machines in your pictures), nor would it be possible to paint a Heritage, yet somehow not paint over the inked serial number. '83 Korina Heritages are so rare and so hard to even find pictures of, no one would ever thing of devaluing one by doing anything to it at all! '83 Custom Shop Edition Korina's, about half of which were painted, run between $15,000 to $50,000, so the same applies. But your V cannot be a '83 CSE, (or any year CSE) because there is no pressed serial number and no "pressed" Made in USA marking. The finish does not appear to be "nitro" either. In my opinion, you have a fake, especially if the "inked" serial number indicates it is a Heritage, which it defiantly is not.  The tuners alone, (no Gibson markings), scream fake/forgery. Hope you didn't pay too much for it.  

Hi Sheepdog,

I am not claiming it is a custom shop edition. And i believe the guitar is genuine.

Reasons you claim this is fake

1. Should not have gold hardware

2. No markings on the tuners

3. You cant see made in usa

4. Hardware is not 24k gold

5. No 83 heritage vs were painted from the factory.

6. Does not appear to be nitro.

Wow, for someone to admit you have far lass knowledge about the Korina '83 V's, you certainly seem to have a strong feeling that this is a forgery.

I purchased this guitar in the late 90s from vintage and rare guitars in London. I gigged with it for years and have put it into retirement. I have toyed with the idea of selling it over the years.

1. Any of heritage Vs I see on reverb all have gold plated hardware. Not solid gold which  I think you suggest Gibson put on the CSE 83s like your explorer. No I dont think its solid gold. I think It is base metal and gold plating.

2. You are correct, there are no markings on the tuners. However I had a look at other Vs of the time and they all must be fake. Look at the tuners here Gibson Flying V Heritage Birdseye Korina Reissue 1981-1983 | Reverb UK 

3. I admit the photos i took years ago are not great quality, but if you look you can just make out the made in usa. I am going to take some better photos.

4. Its gold plate. Not solid gold

5. This one was. It is factory black.

6. Why is the finish checking then. It most certainly is a nitro finish.

[Sheepdog1969]

13 hours ago, Fitz said:

Hi Sheepdog,

I am not claiming it is a custom shop edition. And i believe the guitar is genuine.

Reasons you claim this is fake

1. Should not have gold hardware

2. No markings on the tuners

3. You cant see made in usa

4. Hardware is not 24k gold

5. No 83 heritage vs were painted from the factory.

6. Does not appear to be nitro.

Wow, for someone to admit you have far lass knowledge about the Korina '83 V's, you certainly seem to have a strong feeling that this is a forgery.

I purchased this guitar in the late 90s from vintage and rare guitars in London. I gigged with it for years and have put it into retirement. I have toyed with the idea of selling it over the years.

1. Any of heritage Vs I see on reverb all have gold plated hardware. Not solid gold which  I think you suggest Gibson put on the CSE 83s like your explorer. No I dont think its solid gold. I think It is base metal and gold plating.

2. You are correct, there are no markings on the tuners. However I had a look at other Vs of the time and they all must be fake. Look at the tuners here Gibson Flying V Heritage Birdseye Korina Reissue 1981-1983 | Reverb UK 

3. I admit the photos i took years ago are not great quality, but if you look you can just make out the made in usa. I am going to take some better photos.

4. Its gold plate. Not solid gold

5. This one was. It is factory black.

6. Why is the finish checking then. It most certainly is a nitro finish.

#1, I never made any claims, ever, about my hardware being "solid Gold". In fact, if you simply read my posts in this thread about cleaning Gold hardware, that should have been abundantly clear.

#2 The term "Heritage", regarding '83 Korina Explorers and V's, explicitly meant faithful reproductions of the original '58 release of said. This faithful reproduction went so far as to reproduce the exact hardware of those '58 releases, down to how the pickups were wound, the style of said hardware, the Nickle plating on said, the type of wood Gibson desired to use in '58, the natural finish of the '58's, and the construction methods used to assemble the bodies of the Explorers and V's. 

I admit the picture quality of your guitar makes it difficult to see the detail you claim is present, but it does provide enough to make it clear that it does not appear to be a " '83 Heritage.". It is possible that it ay be a "Limited run", and/or a Custom build, (not necessarily a "Custom Shop", as there was not a publicly available Gibson Custom Shop designation in '83.). Regardless of where it was purchased, there are far to many inconsistencies about your guitar to claim it is a Heritage, without far more provable documentation. To date, there are many guitars pictured on the net that claim to be '83 Heritages, that are provably not.  Even John Bonomassa listed a '83 CSE Korina Explorer in natural finish, as a '83 Korina CSE Heritage, despite no such guitar ever being made by Gibson. He had a '83 CSE, not a Heritage. "83 Korina Explorers were EITHER Heritages or Custom Shop Editions, and cannot be both. 

[Eracer_Team]

@Sheepdog1969 who is : John Bonomassa

there is a Joe Bonamassa and he's pretty darn good with history of guitars

[Sheepdog1969]

37 minutes ago, Eracer_Team said:

@Sheepdog1969 who is : John Bonomassa

there is a Joe Bonamassa and he's pretty darn good with history of guitars

Ooops, typo. Joe Bonamassa, or one of his underlings, did have an '83 Korina Explorer CSE listed for sale as a 1983 Custom Shop Edition Korina Heritage Explorer. Joe may know the difference, but obviously someone in the sales chain did not.  

https://reverb.com/item/4695066-1983-gibson-heritage-series-korina-explorer-with-bigsby-owned-by-joe-bonamassa

Edited February 27 by Sheepdog1969
clarification