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String spacing L-00

BB Brown

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I'm working on replicating a bridge from an early 30's L-00 Bridge with out the old bridge and having a hard time finding specs. online.

1x6 inches, but was the string 2 3/8 ? I couldn't find any drawings or prints. The nut is 1 3/4.

Any help is appreciated.



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2 3/8" (60.325mm)pin spacing on my L-OO Legend, which is a replica of a 1937 L-OO. It also has a 1 3/4" nut.


Bridge footprint is 1" x6". Remember, these bridges are tapered in section, not a constant height (I'm not talking about the ends of the bridge). At the 1st pin (high E) the bridge is 1/4" high. At the 6th pin (low E), the bridge is 5/16" high. This means that there is more saddle exposed at the high E than at the low E If you look closely, you can see it in this picture:



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From my experience, the standard was 2 3/8" which is my only real complaint with older Gibsons as that is a might skimpy.



That's quite a bit wider than the standard Gibson spacing today and in the "modern" past, which seems to vary from 2 1/8" to 2 3/16", depending on the model.


I was practicing my crosspicking last night on the L-OO with 2 3/8" spacing (after pulling out to measure before replying to the OP here), and it felt clumsy for that style compared to my 1948-1950 J-45 (2 1/8") or my 1943 SJ re-issue (hard to measure accurately, but seems to be just a tiny bit over 2 1/8"). I've been crosspicking a lot recently, and have been using the two slope J's for that because of their tone when flat-picked near the bridge.


Fingerpicking is another story, and the extra finger space 2 3/8" gives you is quite useful when you're as clumsy as I am.


As an side to the OP, I forgot to mention that the reason for the tapered bridge of older Gibson was probably to give a better string break angle for the treble strings, by putting their pins lower in the bridge. The angled saddle can give a pretty flat break angle for those strings, depending on the saddle height.


It's more work to make a tapered bridge, but not much if you are jigged up for it. For a one-off bridge, it's quite a bit more time, maybe an additional half-hour or so.

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Thanks. Do you know if they were slotted or un-slotted?


Don't know about the originals. The pin holes on my two high-end modern Gibson flat tops are ramped, but not fully slotted. I think that's fairly typical. Ramping is a lot easier on the strings than a straight hole. On most older guitars, the pin holes have "self-ramped" over time due to string wear, no matter what they were like originally. Same thing applies at the nut.


You can see the self-ramping effect on this 1968 bridge off one of my Gibsons. I know the bridge wasn't slotted, as the pin holes through the bridgeplate are still perfectly round. It's possible I might have "helped" the ramping on this bridge back in 1968. I don't remember a lot of things I did to guitars in the late 60's.....



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