TUNE-O-MATIC BRIDGES POSTS BENT PLEASE HELP

[singlecoil]

I OWN A GIBSON SG CUSTOMSHOP - I AM REPLACING STRING AND USING A HEAVIER GAUGE THAN BEFORE. IN LOOKING OVER MY BRIDGE IN APPEARS IT'S TITLED ON THE POSTS OR THE POST ARE BENT. IS THAT NORMAL..

 

I AM BRAND NEW TO GIBSON. I AM USED TO WORKING ON FENDERS BUT WONDERING IS THIS NORMAL? IS THIS WHY I AM HEARING PUT A TONE PRO LOCKING BRIDGES ON?? YOUR HELP IS MUCH APPRECITATED

[sgdiablo]

I just boght an SG Diablo with the same problem--bent bridge post!! The bridge was at an angle on one side. I called Gibson customer service and they are sending me two new posts, no problem. I guess we are not the only ones with this issue.

Rock on!!

[lous1952]

There is a better solution to using the soft brass posts that Gibson puts on their guitars.

 

Get yourself a few 6-32 stainless steel screws, or threaded rod, at least 1-1/2" long, 2" or more if possible.

 

Longer is okay, you're going to cut them anyway.

 

Also get a few 6-32 nuts.

 

Measure how much the posts stick out from the top, and how high your bridge is from the top.

 

Remove the bridge.

 

Put 2 nuts on your posts and jam them together.

 

You will then be able to use the nuts to remove the posts.

 

With the posts removed, stick a toothpick or something else down the holes and measure how deep the holes are.

 

Add that measurement to the measurement of how much the old posts stuck out from the top.

 

Using the total measurement, cut the screws (or threaded rod) to that length.

 

Smooth the cut ends so that there are no distorted threads or burs- make them look like the Gibson studs if you like.

 

Rub the threads in wax or soap, that will make them go in easier.

 

Start the posts in the holes, and use 2 nuts jammed together to get them all the way in if necessary.

 

Remove the nuts (1 at a time).

 

Put your bridge back on at the height that you measured before.

 

You will have better sustain, maybe clearer tones, and the stainless steel posts are less likely to bend.

 

This is very easy to do and is a definite upgrade over the stock posts.

 

This assumes that your posts are truly bent and not that the holes are drilled on an angle, which has been a problem on some Gibsons.

 

If the holes are drilled on an angle then holes will have to be filled and redrilled, and you should only do that if you know how to do it.

 

You will notice a difference.

 

If you want to go one better get a TonePros locking bridge to replace the Gibson bridge.

[cburns426]

Hey man I don't mean to jack your thread, but I'm thinking about going to 11's since I play in D standard and drop C most of the time, 10's are hard to triplet in C man. What gauge strings were you going to? I don't want to jack my guitar up...lol. It's the only one I've got now, I traded in two Ibanezes and a Jackson to get it..which by the way was TOTALLY F'N worth it.

[hellion102792]

And after you follow what lous1952 said, pop the capslock key off your keyboard. Contrary to popular belief, capslock is not cruise control for cool. :)

[apillock]

Hello,

I don't mean to hijack the post either.

My avatar shows a Gibson guitar rescued after many years from a loft. I put a small video of my son playing it on youtube ( www.youtube.com/edotoole). We took it to be set up properly but retrieved it after a couple of weeks as nothing had been done.

The thing is on the bridge the slots seem very shallow and my son says the strings come loose when he tries to bend them. My question is: Is this an easy problem to overcome? What could I use to deepen the slots - or should we wait until we find a decent guitar set up person? Many thanks.

[Dynadude]

Hello' date='

I don't mean to hijack the post either.

My avatar shows a Gibson guitar rescued after many years from a loft. I put a small video of my son playing it on youtube ( www.youtube.com/edotoole). We took it to be set up properly but retrieved it after a couple of weeks as nothing had been done.

The thing is on the bridge the slots seem very shallow and my son says the strings come loose when he tries to bend them. My question is: Is this an easy problem to overcome? What could I use to deepen the slots - or should we wait until we find a decent guitar set up person? Many thanks.

[/quote']

 

It looks like an early 70's SG Pro, but the pick guard and control setup is different from others I've seen.

 

Could be that someone changed them, or it could be factory. Not sure.

 

It's fairly easy to remedy the bridge problem. The You may need to lower the stop tail a bit to put more string pressure on the bridge. If that doesn't work, you may need to cut the slots a touch deeper. Just be sure to cut them all the same depth.

[cburns426]

And after you follow what lous1952 said' date=' pop the capslock key off your keyboard. Contrary to popular belief, capslock is [i']not[/i] cruise control for cool. :(

 

WHAT DO YOU MEAN???!!!! lol, i was just trying to display some emotion man, I'm excited. or....rather...I was.....but you killed it. KILLJOY!!!!!!! haha.

[hellion102792]

Haha I aim to please

[dickey]

The posts on many SG's are installed at somewhat of an angle--don't know if it's on purpose, or if the Factory does it that way. Every SG I've ever had (on my 46th now) EXCEPT my current '61 was like that. My current one has those studs,like the stopbar studs, installed for the bridge posts. Great idea,wonder why they aren't all like that?

[Rigormortis]

Singlecoil--

You can determine whether the posts are bent by putting nuts on them and turning them out. Just one turn will tell you. +1 on the recommended upgrades. If mine were bent, I would use it as an excuse to get a higher quality bridge!

 

appilock--

I doubt that the problem of the strings popping out is simply due to shallow notches. Other things that can do that someone raised the tail stop too high (as Dynadude said), or someone has replaced the bridge backward, or the wrong kind of strings are on there. Try a new set of 10's for electric guitar, if you haven't already, and setup the action and intonation for that set.

 

If you cut the bridge slots a little deeper, you need to use nut files and watch that you follow the neck radius with the bottom of the notches.

 

The curvature of the bridge on the SG is usually a little bit different than the neck--a little flatter. So when you adjust the e1 and E6 for height, your middle strings are a bit lower than the outside strings, in relation to what they need. One of the remedies is to file the outer saddle notches and raise a bit so that the curvature works for you a little better.

 

Here is a little info on the bridge work I'm talking about.

 

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Bridges/Installation/i-4557.html

 

Just a note about the minor filing work in the Tune-O-Matic: In practise, usually only the outer two saddles (for e and need touched up with a notching file.

 

The reason is that most players use an action a bit higher on the E6 and A5.

 

The best way to do this is to set the E, A, D, and especially G where you want them with the adjusting wheels and then file the other two to proper action height.

 

When you adjust the bridge with the wheels, set the G3 height (about .070" on my guitars) and try to keep it the same when you raise the E6 side (.080") and lower the e1 side as low as you can without it buzzing. You may find that you need to get e1 and B2 a bit closer, and that's when you file. If the notches go more than about a third of the distance of the string, you need to file back the tops of the saddles a bit.

 

For my guitars, I use a high action for maximum tone: @ 12th fret--e.045"; B.050"; G.070; D.070"; A.075"; E.080".

 

The work isn't very difficult if you are used to working precisely, but the right files are spendy. If you don't have the nut files and gauges, I guess I would recommend taking it to some luthier who knows SGs. He might also have some insight into what your SG really is.

[apillock]

Hello Rigormortis and Dynadude,

Many thanks for your excellent detailed replies.

I think we'll wait until I can find a decent luthier as I'm a bit reluctant to make a mess of things, although lowering the tail stop might be on the cards. I might remove the pick guard soon to find out what's underneath it.

Thanks again.

[Rigormortis]

Apillock--Another idea I had is that the strings might be wrapped around and over the tail stop bar, as in the old school bridge. That would eliminate the downward pull that keeps strings in the bridge saddles. If so, re-string the guitar so that thestrings go through the tail stop and directly over the saddles.