Replaceing an adjustable Bridge

[strumbert]

Hello,

 

Anyone here have this done? Anyone try it themselves? Someone gave me a guitar with one, and it is split and lifting. It came to me un-strung, so I have no Idea what it sounds like and I'm reluctant to spend the money to find out.

 

Do I have a wall decoration... or can it be saved?

 

Tim

[smips65]

Welcome Here.

 

Could use some pics to advise better....

Here is the tutorial for posting pics....

http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8886

 

 

I recently had a 40+ year old acoustic with an adjustable bridge, and made my own replacement for it.

You'll need to be handy with woodworking stuff.

 

Start at Post #13 on this thread.

http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=13608

[strumbert]

Sorry, I don't have pics.

 

The bridge is lifting in the classic manner. The excess pressure on the bridge slot cracked the bridge on both sides towards the wings. It's pretty much toast. The belly foward of the bridge has been getting better after a few weeks of humidifying. I looked inside with an inspection mirror last night. The bridge plate and bracing seem to be o.k..

 

I would like to give changing the bridge a shot. I just need to know how intonation may be affected by converting to a fixed saddle. I'm thinking I'll need to maintain the exact scale length some how. Aftermarket bridges are available pretty cheap. I'll just have to make sure I get the right one.

 

Tim

[smips65]

I'll assume you looked at the posts I refered too...

 

So give us some more info.

 

Is this a metal bracket or wooden one that holds the bridge?

 

El Cheapo compensated plastic bridges are a dime a dozen.

 

Take the bracket, or the whole guitar to ensure that they fit very snugly.

 

Obtain some very fine grade sandpaper, I use 400 grit as the lowest.

 

Then it's off to trial and error territory.

 

There are angle considerations to be taken into account as well as the intonation issue.

 

Pitch the bridge too far one way or the other, forget about intonation ever being correctable.

 

If the entire saddle is lifting, then a glue job is in order, not particularely difficult, clamps, nuts & bolts, and some glue will take care of that.

 

The biggest factor here is time and patience. You'll need plenty of both.

[TommyK]

Some believe tone is improved by removing the adjustable saddle holder. So it's all good... or so they say.

 

The trick to ending up with proper intonation is to very meticulously measure the distance from the nut to the saddle in it's proper location. Unstrung, with the saddle in the holder, in the bottom of the slot, shoved up against the pin side of the slot, measure to the center of the top of the saddle, the bone colored piece of plastic which resides in the metal holder.

 

Then steam the bridge the rest of the way off the top of the sound board.

 

Then, measure the old bridge and order a new bridge to fit and saddle from:

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Acoustic_guitar_bridges/Acoustic_Bridge.html

or

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Bridges+and+Pins&NameProdHeader=Pre-Made+Wood+Bridges

 

Purchase one that is large enough to cover the scar left over from the removal of the old bridge. Get a new saddle as well. Heck, get a couple.... live a little. Why not get new pins while you're at it?, it's only money.

 

Now to properly spot the new bridge, slip the saddle into the new bridge slot, then measure from the nut to the saddle and spot it exactly as you measured the old one (you did write the measurements down... didn't you?). Use a pencil to mark the outline of the properly placed bridge, then glue it into place with hide glue (not the liquid stuff in a bottle. but the dry stuff you dissolve in hot water to make a liquid) See Frets.com, search for "Hide glue" for the formula. Make sure you do not get glue squidged into the bottom of the slot. You want the saddle to be in direct contact with the soundboard when you're done. DO NOT GLUE THE SADDLE IN THE SLOT. It should be ever so slightly snug, but removable. Line up the bridge with the pencil marks and clamp into place while the glue cools. You may need to re-bore the holes for the pins if the new bridges pin holes don't line up with the old.

 

Good Luck.