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noguitarhero

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I looked for the answers in this section, and did not run across the answers. First my MIJ Texan has a zero fret, what's it for? Second, I went to buy strings, and the salesperson talked me out of medium, saying the guitar would not handle them, is this true or did he just need to move some lights? Lastly, he said I should take the guitar to a luthier, have the adjustable bridge removed, and have bone bridge, and pins installed. Saying it would greatly improve the sound. Ant help on this topics would be appreciated

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Zero Fret. This was a common feature of this vintage of Epiphone, made by Matsumoku of Japan. I've been told some Gretsch's have zero frets as well. A zero fret takes on part of the role of the nut. It defines the headstock end of the scale length. The other end being the bridge. This simplifies the job and design of the nut. The nut slot geometry is less critical in this design. In this configuration, the nut serves only to space the strings. Since the strings don't bear down as much on the nut, a bone nut might not make much difference. But if you are doing the other accouterments in bone, it would make the nut match. Not to mention, 40 year old plastic nuts are given to failing, like mine.

 

He recommended lights as this particular vintage, early Matsumoku, Epiphone, had weak neck blocks. If your neck block hasn't shifted by now it probably won't. The salesman probably was trying to do you a favor. If your neck block has broken loose, then you can take it to a luthier to have it repaired, or do it yourself if you are handy with tools.

 

The adjustable bridge can stay, or go, it's your preference. My FT145SB still has hers. A bone bridge and pins couldn't hurt. Bridges are normally about 1/8" thick. The slot which the adjustable saddle holder sits is 1/4" wide. Spacers will have to be put in fore and aft of the saddle.

Another option is to order up a custom made saddle to fit the wide slot. > > This guy < < makes custom saddles, pins and nuts. At one time he had a picture of an extra wide saddle. He does make 'custom' saddles whereby you send in the old one. You could send your saddle holder for sizing. At $25.00, it might not be a bad idea.

 

My Epi FT145SB:

FT145SBfullsize-1.jpg

 

Not my Epi, but with moderately severe damage caused by a loose neck block:

You can see by the gluesicle dribbling down the neck block that a repair had been attempted.

MashedRosetteonFT140.jpg

 

My Epi, showing reinforcing brackets:

LBracketoutside.jpgLBracket.jpg

You can just see a bit of deformation of the top, under the fingerboard extension caused by the neck pulling forward and the fret board end pressing down on the top.

 

Link to my fix:

http://forums.epiphone.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=1100

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Thanks much for the answers to my questions. I enjoyed the look at your Texan, it seems to have more red in it than mine. Mine is more brown than red. I looked over the neck block before I bought the guitar, thanks to an older post of yours that I read while researching the Texan. You might say you were "instrumental", pardon the pun, on my purchase of the guitar. I will add photos as soon as I can download a couple. As for your last comment, what can I say, great minds think alike. Have a good one.

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Pictures like that worry me...

 

I play my Texan on a daily basis...

 

If you have a FT145 'Texan' and the neck hasn't moved by now, it probably wont. Mine failed within a year of purchase (late '70's). Many were fixed under warranty. Since, at the time, I didn't know mine was broken, neither did my teacher [cursing] I never knew to make a warranty claim.

 

If you have a FT79 'Texan', don't sweat it. It is a totally different animal and does not have the same design deficiencies.

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I took a few photos of my Texan, and tried to load them, I am computer stupid, and could'nt figure out how. Apparently the files were to big. It may be for the best, since I am no Ansel Adams, more like... Gomez Adams, haha. TommyK, in photographs my ft is very similiar to yours, even to the color. Apparently in photos it appears to have more red in it. A few differences I did notice are, mine has an off white label as opposed to the blue, and the pickguard does not have the epsilon on it. Older, newer? I will try to figure out how to get those images down loaded.

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If you have a FT79 'Texan', don't sweat it. It is a totally different animal and does not have the same design deficiencies.

 

Thankyou..

 

I have read so many horror stories about what happens with older guitars.. Some times they seem extreme.

 

Regards

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mine is the second from the left, and when I bought it the neck block was perfect like the rest of the guitar, but the action was not. I work on all my guitars and tried an old trick with bolt on necks, I shimed the neck and now it is my best playing guitar. Dont be afraid to try it, it;s a very simple mod that will give great results on this model

 

Cheers

family.jpg

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Came through with flying colors noguitarhero

 

Yours has the tan, 'Lincolnwood' label.

 

Per this > > > Brief History < < <

 

That would place your guitar between '77 and '79 when the PR line replaced the FT line. Possibly as early as '75. The writer of that thread, to me, wasn't real clear when the move to Lincolnwood happened.

 

By the time the tan labels were being used, the weak neck block issue had been licked, for the most part.

 

I would love to see what that neck block looks like on your Lincolnwood Norlin FT. Could you get a shot from the button end, through the sound hole. I'm guessing they used a wider neck block.

 

The Episilon on the pick guard on the early Matsumoku built Epiphones was more enduring than later versions. My guard has the usual scratches, but the painted on epsilon is still nearly pristine. Probably owes, somewhat, to the use of lead based paints of that era.

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That does appear to have a much beefier neck block. Sparse evidence suggests that the repaired-under-warranty Epiphones had FT165 bodies grafted to six string necks.

 

Thanks for the post noguitarhero

 

Your later FT145 appears to have a slopier shoulders and a less pronounced lower bout than the earlier blue label FT145 Texan's.

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