Questions about ES335

[RudyH]

Hello:

 

I am shopping for a factory new ES-335 to use as my main guitar. However, I am a bit confused about various features I've encountered. I'd like to clear this up before making a mistake on an order.

 

Can you help me answer any of my questions? In the questions I refer to new models I have encountered, not vintage guitars.

1) One I tried had a really fat neck and the binding formed a trough in which the strings and fretboard were recessed. The action seemed quite high. What configuration is this? What is the purpose of the elevated binding? Does the binding interfere with barre chords?

 

2) Do the new 335s all have the same electronics, with the important thing being uniformity of tone from one variation to another?

 

3) How durable is the nitrocellulose finish? And is there a more durable option available from the factory?

 

4) Can you direct me to pictures that show detail of the different kinds of necks and fretboards? The verbal descriptions on the website mean nothing to me.

 

5) Can you direct me to a web site or catalog that shows all of the different configurations of the 335, with enough detail to allow me to compare variations?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Robin Nahum]

Hi Rudy and welcome.

 

What a wonderful position to be in - having to decide on a new 335!

 

From your post, I get the feeling that you are still finding your way a bit with speccing guitars. I'm wondering whether it wouldn't be easier and more effective at this stage for you to go into a bunch of shops and try out a lot of 335s to see which sounds and plays right - and then when you find the 335 of your dreams, just hand over your money and take it home.

 

Aside from being unsure what to specify, the other problem you will face with ordering is that tone cannot be made to order. I have tried identically specced guitars that sounded quite different to each other.

 

And I think that trying to assess playability from a catalog or a menu will be difficult unless you have a clear idea of what you are after. For instance, if I am ordering a Fender-style neck for a partscaster, I know that I like the American Standard profile ("soft C") but with 21 frets and this is what I ask for - and receive.

 

RN

[RudyH]

Robin:

 

Thank you for the advice. The problem is a bit more basic for me. The real issue is that I have not been able to decrypt the Gibson catalog, if there even is such a thing. The Fender analogy is a good one. When I was in the market for my first guitar, I knew I wanted a Strat. Fender's catalog was utterly transparent. Picking the configuration I wanted was a no-brainer. In the case of the Gibson there are a lot of potential pitfalls, and I want enough information to understand the factory options so I can go to the dealer and ask detailed questions about them. I don't have a lot of dealers near me, there's only one Gibson dealer, and he's fifty miles away, so I need to have as much information up front as I can get.

[lpdeluxe]

That's another reason why it's important to check out different guitars. The Gibson catalog is pretty opaque, and there are instances of Gibson having published specs and then thrown non-specified hardware on the actual instruments because they had them on hand. But you can't hear a catalog description, and that's the drawback of choosing a guitar that way.

 

As far as specific features, most of the non-signature models use '57 humbuckers, which ideally capture the magic tone of the late '50s ES-335s. In the real world, some do, and some don't...and there's a larger issue, which is, do you know that that's the tone you want? I have a lovely Dot reissue from 2000 that is perfect for playing in church, but my old beat-up Les Paul Deluxe kills it for serious playing (not a criticism of the 335: it sounds like a 'typical' 335). I find that some sounds speak to me, while many others don't do much, and the best way I can find that sound is by trying out a lot of guitars and ignoring the make and model.

 

The binding over the fret ends is a Gibson trademark, and they are very proud of it. It doesn't affect playability at all, in my experience.

 

I don't know that any have other than nitro finishes, but it stays new looking with a little care in avoiding dings and scratches (don't take the pickguard off and loan it to a punk rocker!). I had an '95 Epiphone Sheraton II with a poly finish

and it looked like new -- which also means, it looked a little unnatural. Nitro ages in an attractive way, to many of us.

 

I think Gibson uses nickel plated hardware exclusively on the non-gold hardware 300s. It tarnishes (especially here in E Texas) but it's on there because the aficionados disliked the never-aging look of chrome plating.

 

One phrase that recurs in the ad copy is "'60s-taper thin neck" which is actually quite comfortable. Some Norlin-made instruments had infamously thin and narrow necks, but Gibson long ago reverted to decent human-compatible dimensions. If you like the typical set neck feel, you'll likely get along with that profile. One difference between the Gibson and Fenders is that Gibson use a 24-3/4" scale (for these models) while Fender typically uses 25-1/2" Some people are sensitive to that feature (me -- it's why I don't play Fender guitars), others don't care.

 

The overall feel of a Gibson is very different from a Fender. You'll miss the body contours on the Strat, and the vibrato (assuming you used it) and the sound is fundamentally different: more mid-range, less prominent highs, more bass. Less chime, more grunt, so to speak.

 

Hope this helps.

[RudyH]

LP Deluxe:

 

Thanks. That nailed it for me. It's exactly what I needed to know. I think the answer for me is to forget about the 335 for a while until I'm in a music city again, like Nashville or Chicago. Then I'll have a look around.

[lpdeluxe]

LP Deluxe:

 

Thanks. That nailed it for me. It's exactly what I needed to know. I think the answer for me is to forget about the 335 for a while until I'm in a music city again' date=' like Nashville or Chicago. Then I'll have a look around. [/quote']

 

You're welcome. I have learned after 37 years (!) that the right instrument is worth waiting for. Good luck.

[Tim Plains]

Rudy, one more thing I'd like to add...

 

There are two types of ES-335. You're everyday ES-335 and then the historic ES-335.

The historic is supposed to be more like the originals, but it's not a replica.

The historics have different pots and capacitors. They sound great, but they do not have a gradual linear taper.

Meaning, as you roll the tone knob down from 10, there is no effect until around 3. It's almost like an on/off-switch.

Historics are also a lot more money.

 

Have you looked at Gibson's website? http://www.gibsoncustom.com/flash/products/es/list.html

Every ES-335 has '57 Classic pickups...except for the 335 Block Neck...which has Burstbucker Pros.

[ToddS]

That's another reason why it's important to check out different guitars. quote]

 

My personal opinion is that guitars are like women - you can look at them and think theylook hot, or you like the 'specs' ... but until you get them in your hot little hands and see how they handle, how they feel, how they sound, how can you really be sure?

 

and once you have the one you love, it dont matter what the 'specs' are on it, you'll just know that you love it and that its right for you!

[ToddS]

That's another reason why it's important to check out different guitars.

 

Hope this helps.

 

My personal opinion is that guitars are like women - you can look at them and think theylook hot, or you like the 'specs' ... but until you get them in your hot little hands and see how they handle, how they feel, how they sound, how can you really be sure?

 

and once you have the one you love, it dont matter what the 'specs' are on it, you'll just know that you love it and that its right for you!