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FT 135?


bloozeguy

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Hey, y'all,

Saw what appeared to be a nifty little box in a used git-store. I believe the model was FT-135. I'm pretty sure about the 135, less so about the letters. Anyhoo, about a OOO-size, typical small-bodied Epi of about the '70's, I'd guess. Block inlays, bolted neck & bridge(?)can't tell if the body's solid or not (I think so), Conservatively, in good-to-very-good condition. Going for $139. (and these guys deal real nicely). I'm possibly looking for a "beater." Might I have stumbled onto something nice here?

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Its priced just about right on the money, its called a concert style size made from around 1972 -78.ship

Thank you, Ship! Do you (or anyone) know of its construction--mainly topwood? Solid or lam? Top looks solid, sorta, but it's all darkened enough that I can't say for sure. I'm guessing body/sides to be laminate.

Anyone with experience playing any of these babies want to chime in, feel free! BTW--a good review of an FT 134 at Harmony Central--I checked it out cuz I thought maybe the 4 was a typo for a 5. Seems to me the models of that time were usually in 5-multiples.

I'm quite serious about the possibilities here, even for a gigger as well as a beater!

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The FT135 was made in Japan by Matsumoku. Matsumoku also made Aria and other brands of less expensive guitars. There were some FT130s and FT134s made. Some had more or less bling, more or less. Here is a catalog of 1974 offerings: > > > 1974 Catalog < < < If I were a betting man, I'd say the FT134 had a bit less bling than an FT135, but more than an FT130. Also, make note of the inside-the-sound-hole label. Blue is older, tan is newer.

 

The neck is certainly bolted on from the back. The bridge is not bolted on, but adjustable. Well, let me get the terminology straight. The wooden bridge is glued to the top and there are screws that also hold it to the sound board. The screw heads are hidden under two black, plastic plugs located below the pins. The saddle was plastic from the factory and rests in a metal saddle holder. The saddle holder is adjusted up and down by two large, slot headed and knurled screws. Without strings installed the saddle and holder will fall out of the bridge's slot.

 

"Natural Spruce" or "Select Spruce" usually means laminate. Guitars at this price point couldn't afford solid tops.

 

Loose neck blocks are a common mode of failure on this vintage of Epiphone flat tops. Here's > > > my treatise < < < on the mode of failure and how I fixed mine. Generally speaking the weak neck block design had been corrected by the time the tan, so-called, "Lincolnwood" label was being used. But a tan label is no guarantee the neck block is still secure.

 

The condition of the neck block should be taken into consideration when appraising the value of this vintage of Epiphone. For $139.00 it should have a secure neck block.

 

This will certainly make a good knock-around or gigging on the week-end guitar.

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The FT135 was made in Japan by Matsumoku. Matsumoku also made Aria and other brands of less expensive guitars. There were some FT130s and FT134s made. Some had more or less bling, more or less. Here is a catalog of 1974 offerings: > > > 1974 Catalog < < < If I were a betting man, I'd say the FT134 had a bit less bling than an FT135, but more than an FT130. Also, make note of the inside-the-sound-hole label. Blue is older, tan is newer.

 

The neck is certainly bolted on from the back. The bridge is not bolted on, but adjustable. Well, let me get the terminology straight. The wooden bridge is glued to the top and there are screws that also hold it to the sound board. The screw heads are hidden under two black, plastic plugs located below the pins. The saddle was plastic from the factory and rests in a metal saddle holder. The saddle holder is adjusted up and down by two large, slot headed and knurled screws. Without strings installed the saddle and holder will fall out of the bridge's slot.

 

"Natural Spruce" or "Select Spruce" usually means laminate. Guitars at this price point couldn't afford solid tops.

 

Loose neck blocks are a common mode of failure on this vintage of Epiphone flat tops. Here's > > > my treatise < < < on the mode of failure and how I fixed mine. Generally speaking the weak neck block design had been corrected by the time the tan, so-called, "Lincolnwood" label was being used. But a tan label is no guarantee the neck block is still secure.

 

The condition of the neck block should be taken into consideration when appraising the value of this vintage of Epiphone. For $139.00 it should have a secure neck block.

 

This will certainly make a good knock-around or gigging on the week-end guitar.

Wow! Many thanks for this! FYI--this 'un played real well, felt real good, if a bit heavy. And, yes, screws. Will check bridge material when I see her again--replacing the plastic bridge w/wood on an old Gib. LGO of mine made a big diff.

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Just so we're clear. This vintage of Epiphone did not have a plastic bridge. The big wooden piece with the bridge pins pushed through. The saddle, that think little white piece stuck into the bridge for the strings to rest upon was plastic from the factory and was stuck into a saddle adjuster which was placed into a slot in the wooden bridge.

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