Aethyr Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Alright, so it's been barely more than a month since I got my Ultra III, and I've definitely determined that it's going to be a keeper. Especially since most people seem to have problems with theirs, mine is almost perfect even though it was B-Stocked (well, the finish is not actually Mid. Ebony, but I don't care, I like it, and other than the wrong color it's great). So now it's time to start thinking about part 2 of the plan, which was to repair all the electronics that has been crapping out for years on my Studio LP Gothic. I've never actually modded a guitar before, so I thought I'd try and get a kickstarter here. The guitar is in Greece and I'm in the UK, so I'll be getting to do this in a month+ from now, but getting the parts is cheaper and easier here so I'll just plan and buy them before I leave for home. I won't have much time there, so I kind of need to plan ahead to calculate for the inevitable errors from being a complete novice at this stuff. The guitar was second hand and already fitted with an SD TB-6 Bridge, and I think (can't remember and the owner had only kept the stuff from the bridge pup) an SSH6N Duncan Designed pup on the neck. I have no intention of swapping them out at this point. However, the hardware needs an update. The neck position on the selector switch (which is still stock) has been dying for years now, apparently a common problem found in Epi selector switches. Definitely needs to be replaced. The knobs are giving me headaches as well; they don't mute properly on 0 volume, I need to turn tones down as well, and it still gives feedback sometimes; they aren't very responsive to my ears; and they're actually quite hard to turn - which wasn't a problem until I got my hands on the Ultra III, and the knobs turn nicely and are very responsive. So I need new pots as well. One thing I would like is to make the guitar more versatile. I've planned on installing a push-pull knob at least on the bridge pickup. However, I'm not sure what wiring to use. I'm leaning towards series/parallel switching, because I want to retain hum cancelling and I want to reduce its output - it's a REALLY hot overwound ceramic pup, and it overdrives most amps even at bedroom volumes. However, I'm open to suggestions on this one. As for the pots, I would like pots that have provide the most audible effect at very low/high settings - i.e. get suddenly really hot over 7 and really clean below 3, as an example. I hope you understand what I mean, I don't want a linearly progressing effect. So now come the questions. Keeping in mind that I am in the UK, where would you recommend I buy the switch/pots, what type of pots/switch would you recommend, what soldering iron wattage and what solder do you use/do you think I should use? Again, I'm a complete novice, so I would really appreciate guidance here, I know there are probably hundreds of modders in these forums so please share your light with me :D Edit: I almost forgot. Another thing I want to do is change the neck to a genuine satin finish. I assume I'll have to use some kind of sandpaper on it, but I don't want to destroy the neck itself. Anyone have suggestions on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueman335 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 To get all the wiring options with push-pulls, the wires need to be 4 lead (plus ground). I personally prefer coil cut to parallel, as there's isn't that much noise with single coils, and parallel is so puny. If you have a 12,000 ohm PU, it's 6,000 ohms in coil cut, and 3,000 in parallel, which is puny. I'd get that ceramic magnet out of the bridge, and put in an alnico 8. I've sent magnets for free to 12 countries, includinga few guys in the UK. Ceramics are too loud and harsh for me, too 'in-your-face'. If the neck has a ceramic, I'd put an alino 5 in it. Let me know if you want a magnet or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 So now come the questions. Keeping in mind that I am in the UK, where would you recommend I buy the switch/pots, what type of pots/switch would you recommend, what soldering iron wattage and what solder do you use/do you think I should use? Again, I'm a complete novice, so I would really appreciate guidance here, I know there are probably hundreds of modders in these forums so please share your light with me :D I've had great service from Axesrus An Antec 18 or 25 watt iron would be best check Maplin for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aethyr Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks for the replies. Blueman, I've thought of replacing the ceramic... However, I have very limited experience with different magnet types, so I don't really know what to go for. If I was to swap the bar magnet, I would actually want to reduce the attack of the pup a bit. Currently the tone is very aggressive and "searing". AlNiCo 8 seems to be similar to the ceramic but with a bit more character (less sterile tone) which I like as an idea. I want it to sound a bit warmer and tighter though, are A8s the best choice for that or is there maybe a less powerful bar magnet type that would give me enough output but also a warmer tone? Pete, thanks for both recommendations, that's a pretty extensive website. Seems great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordy01 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I find that my 40 watt Weller soldering iron works well. Any less powerful and I might spend too much time on the surface of a pot, possibly overheating it. Any hotter and it would be too fast. If you have 4 wire leads on the pickups, I too would go for coil split, rather than parallel. As previously stated parallel is a very weak signal, and requires BIG volume changes. I would go to the Mojo site and order up some push-push pots for the coil split. Or try to find the same thing in Europe. No foolin' 'round trying to pull the switch, just push it and then push it again to switch back. Way easier if your hands are sweaty. Are you planning on a bridge and tail piece change? How about tuners? New nut too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aethyr Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 I find that my 40 watt Weller soldering iron works well. Any less powerful and I might spend too much time on the surface of a pot, possibly overheating it. Any hotter and it would be too fast. If you have 4 wire leads on the pickups, I too would go for coil split, rather than parallel. As previously stated parallel is a very weak signal, and requires BIG volume changes. I would go to the Mojo site and order up some push-push pots for the coil split. Or try to find the same thing in Europe. No foolin' 'round trying to pull the switch, just push it and then push it again to switch back. Way easier if your hands are sweaty. Are you planning on a bridge and tail piece change? How about tuners? New nut too? How about tone comparisons between the two? I think I might be going for coil splits after all, since more than one person recommends it. Sweaty hands are not an issue (I barely sweat at all), and I'd rather have an indication of which mode I'm in. I'll look it up though, price is also a factor. As for the rest of the hardware. Tuners are grover-style, and they stay in tune rather well unless I go mental on the guitar. I haven't actually thought of upgrading the hardware, although the guitar is fairly old (a Korean model) and the hardware is non-locking so that is a consideration. I might do an input jack upgrade though, I've been thinking on that since I made this thread. I guess for this time, the electronics take precedence. Tuners/Nut/Bridge&Tailpiece can all be upgraded at a later date from my point of view, since they are after all independent of the electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordy01 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I've done 2 guitars with coil splitting now. The tone you get in single coil mode is very much like any other single coil. The main difference is in the volume levels. You have to remember that you are cutting the pickup's output by half in coil split mode. It gets cut even more in parallel. You have to allow for this in your guitar and amp settings. You should have enough room in your settings that you can simply turn the guitar up and maintain the same volume as you get with humbuckers. The push-pull pots work just as well as the others, and you're right, there is a bit more of an indication of where you are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DADDEO Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Don't forget the D.I.Y. thread for links and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7C Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 My LP Studio is my most heavily modded guitar I have - all the original wiring, pots, pick-ups etc are out; replaced with a PAF in the neck and a fat P90 in the bridge. Very versatile with a nice 'funky' sound when both pick-ups selected. Body is quite a deep 'burst in colour, the black knobs are now gold and the black plastics are now cream. she's very nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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