Jinder Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Just a quick query-this is an issue that has affected every gibson I've owned, bar my previous '97 "Early" J45. I find when playing in the key of G using open chords, I have to tune the B string down a tiny increment to to get the chords to "ring" right, when the guitar is tuned to 440. This isn't a problem when I'm playing on my own, but when I'm recording or doing band work, it's bloody annoying-My SJ200 was worse when I used 13-56 Mediums on it, but since going back to 12-54s it's barely noticeable-my Hummingbird, however, is quite badly afflicted by it-could it be the short scale making it worse? It can be very irritating for songwriting-I hate out of tune guitars, and by the time I've sat about tuning the thing so it's just so, the inspiration has often gone. I'm wondering if this is an overtone in the instrument (I've had it fully set up, tried different gauges of strings etc) or whether it's something I'm doing wrong. G chords just sound a little harmonically "sour", and when I retune to suit the key, most of the other chords (especially E) sound out. Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksdaddy Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 I had a B string play in tune once. I think it was May of 1984. I super glued it in place and haven't touched the guitar since. Kinda like finding the outline of the Virgin Mary in your mashed potatoes, you preserve it for future generations. Have you considered, or is it practical for you, to compensate the saddle? I know there's not a lot that can be done with an 1/8" saddle, but if the "breaking point" of the B string could be moved back as far as possible through some crafty filing, it would likely help, if not ameleiorate the situation completely. If one were to begin with an unshaped bone blank it would increase the wiggle room. Or if by chance you can borrow or beg a standard issue TUSQ saddle from a modern Gibson, many of them are compensated already. I'm not suggesting you switch to TUSQ if you're already using bone, but it would give you a hint whether compensating a bone blank would be beneficent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarstrummer Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Ksdaddy's suggestion is a good one. That way, you'd know if compensating would help or not. Most of my saddles are compensated and I haven't noticed a major problem. If you decide to go to a compensated saddle and don't feel comfortable making one yourself, you can buy a compensated bone saddle from Bob Colosi at http://www.guitarsaddles.com/. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peiplayer Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 ksdaddy, please forgive my ignorance and these may be very stupid questions, but what exactly is a “compensated saddle?” What is it compensating for and what is the difference between one that has been compensated and one that hasn’t? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksdaddy Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 A compensated saddle is one that (in effect) changes the string's length and therefore alters where on the string the note is fretted. The intonation on an acoustic guitar is seldom (if ever) all that great but there are so many other overtones and sympathetic vibrations that the human ear doesn't typically pick up on it. It's one of those classic "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" situations. In this case (like many!) the B string is sharp when fretted. This can be more noticeable if the string gauge is very light, the relief in the neck is too great, the action is high... right down to the player unconsciously pushing down on the string too hard or shifting it off to one side. Here's a pic I stole off the web. Like I said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but if you have a problem with intonation and the guitar is otherwise set up well, it can be a big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarstrummer Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Compensation is an adjustment that can be made to change the mathematical scale of a guitar by changing the string length. This is usually done at the saddle. It provides for proper intonation. Many acoustic guitars have problems with strings being sharp and the saddles need to be compensated by adding string length. If the string is sharp, the saddle can be moved back, thereby increasing the string length. If the string is flat, you can move the saddle forward, thereby shortening the string length. Saddles are compensated by filing portions under certain strings to move the contact point of that string at the saddle, either forward or backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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