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X vs. ladder brancing


DCBirdMan

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I guess the usual discussions on this are about tone -- the thinner ladder brace sound vs. the fuller X brace sound.

My question is about strength. I dropped a pile of dough to have a nice '58 LG-1 restored... it does sound nice, but everyone is saying it can't taske medium bronze (13s) altho that is what I like.

Is a ladder braced small box Gibson not up to the task? I mean back in the day, light gauge strings almost didn't exist.

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LG1's are built sturdily, and if I liked such a heavy string I'd try 'em out slack tuned back to D#, or a half step down. If you wake up one morning and the bridge is hanging off, rethink it. Good luck seating the heavy E ball end without squeezing the pin in there too tightly. A lifted bridge is easier to fix than a cracked one. Lay a straight edge across the top between the s'hole and bridge occasionally in case some change in the top profile begins to develop.

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The common problem with those ladder braced guitars is that they tend to fold in on themselves. There's no wood bracing the top from folding along the waist.

 

I have a 1939 Kalamazoo KG-12 that has 12s on it now and no top distortion. It has a lot to do with the strength of that particular top. They're all different.

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WEll the bridge was reglued and it was all tightend up. Thing is I find that the G doesn't intonate right ... it's flat at the octave. My 2 CF-100Es are like this also. One is original, one reissue. The original is on the bay btw.

But with them I find that a 24 G is replaced with a 26 t he problem goes away. It's like this on 3 guitars ... some thing about Gibson scale ?

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