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jedzep

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jedzep last won the day on September 9 2020

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About jedzep

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  1. I came very close a month or so ago to buying this bucket lister that I had in my Reverb feed for two years, figuring it's rarity would mean I'd never see one anyway. As I was staring at it, literally calculating which guitars had to go or how long it would take me to pay off, it sold before my very eyes. Hitting the buy button after my first read of the description instead of re-reading twice would have made it mine. I learned an important lesson though. He who hesitates...still has 3500 bucks in his checking account. https://reverb.com/item/37421552-1959-guild-m-30-mahogany-ghost-label-mega-rare-hoboken-collector-grade-m-20
  2. That's the one. It currently contains 2 Holter guards (for Martins) and the gorgeous Greven made for the L00 project. I miss the signature feature on the old site which let us see what each other was playing. I've moved a few out and a few in since then. Got the two 30's L00s, a pre-T '92 Martin D-16H, more or less a D-18, built with early bracing and dovetail neck joint. Two 000 sized Martins, a 90's 000-15SM 12 fretter, and an '07 rosewood OM-21. Finally, two Guilds; a beaten up '63 F30, and my one electric, a '63 M65. Think I'm finished buying.
  3. Thanks a lot, Nick. I think I got a little impatient at the end and some of the finessing could have continued. I glued the binding with very little CA, but when it dried I filled in the rest of the space with Titebond, as it dries close to the color of aged spruce. Dumb luck, but I think you had suggested that. Certainly better than the pale putties I could have used. Love these strings, as well as their 'Royal Bronze' (PB) line. I tune down a step, as you may remember, and still move dif strings around on different guitars. I never did settle on one brand for all. The RB's don't seem to live long though. The guard was dull from eons of storage in the pages of my giant Webster's dictionary, but Jescar swirl remover brought the shine back.
  4. Worked out fine. I can finally play the dang thing again. Went nuts and even put the orig guard back on. Sounds like a million bucks!
  5. Dave putting up that ad made me sadly miss my '31 L0, which I sold to the owner of Retrofret. My whole day is ruined. Thanks, bro.
  6. Thanks Nick. I'll try it. I've used my own larger cab scrapers, but never tried razor on plastic. I have extra pieces to play and get the hang of it. I just never thought plastic would shave off clean like that.
  7. Coming along OK. Patches went well. Some touch-up/clean-up left to go. A little heat will meld the seam. What a headache, but gratifying. The ring still sits slightly above in spots. I'll cut a piece of very thin metal flashing and use it as a shield while sanding off the plastic. That'll be the weekend fun. Love the quarantine!
  8. Yes. Great reminder. Test on scraps.
  9. Appreciated, Dave. It took a long time to think it through, but luthiers and specialty furniture guys in the area always seemed hesitant to touch it for fear of breaking through, or worse, trying to rout it and risk running a split across the top. I saved a couple bucks, for sure, with the candle and exacto. Hope I can finagle a decent looking fake.
  10. Thanks Nick. I may glue in a little spruce reinforcement next to the two finger braces that run across portions of the area just beneath the channel, so I'll have a solid base to glue to. That is right where the perforations are. The binding is plastic. I have tried sanding a sample but couldn't get anything off it, so I'm trying to cut it a bit short and float it up to level on a bed of adhesive. Here's a rough idea of the look, haven't decided whether to slip one more thin black strip in. Not looking for perfection, of course, but a fairly decent job will beat the former condition by far.
  11. Thanks, but all the cutting was done sometime in 1949. I have cleaned the abused channel sufficiently, and will be able to set in the new binding as soon as I cut it to the ideal height. I was looking for suggestions for an adhesive bed that might let me control the final height. A 1950 J50, as you can imagine, is the opposite of scrap.
  12. Understood. I've always been satisfied with the Stewmac repros, just the warning about post hole size, which I think they address on the site to help you match to your hole and post diameter.
  13. StewMac renditions are fine, with the same backplate footprint. I was referring to original equip Klusons. Here's a pic of my minty 30's Klusons...pretty alright, but hard to turn. Double down on checking the bushing diameters. That's the tricky part on the StewMacs.
  14. When Em7 mentioned in the earlier JTaylor J50 conversation that my J50 could use some love and attention, I went to work. Thanks for the push. Using heat from a candle, exacto knife and dentistry tools, I decided to remove the bad putty job with the remaining original binding and start from scratch. The heated tools made it pretty easy and non-traumatic to the thin spruce. Of course, I have zero experience installing the BWB plastic binding, not exactly the correct pattern, but laminating and cutting the different strips is more than I want to grapple with. The soundhole ring and channel was already in damaged condition, as the pawn shop I got this 1950 (3645 11) from had to sand the hell out of it to remove the bad Minwax Poly-shades finish some knothead slathered on. Sounds terrific, good bones, and plays comfortably, and I have a variety of binding strips from LMI to work with. I'll glue some thin spruce backing pieces to cover the punctures before installing the binding, but as you may be able to see, some of the ring from about the 7 to the 11 o'clock position is swinging a little wide. Not sure, but I may have to fill any void sliver with amber tone glue or putty, perhaps even a sliver of wood. After doing my best to level the base of the track, I still expect the height of the channel walls to be somewhat irregular, so I'm wondering if there is some type of viscous adhesive that I could use as a bed to enable me to adjust the binding level to achieve the closest to even with the top. Sanding it to even things out isn't really an option. Advice is always appreciated. Hang in there, everybody. Dave
  15. Your pic is fuzzy, but it would be hard for me to enjoy my L00 if it had such oversized clunky looking buttons. If I could afford to part with some money to replace them, I wouldn't care too awful much if they were vintage-ly accurate, as long as those buttons went bye-bye and were replaced with ovals that mimicked the shape and size of what the guitar originally came with.
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