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jedzep last won the day on September 9 2020

jedzep had the most liked content!

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About jedzep

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  1. Hi John. I was trying to hook him up with the sellers who carve, not that particular bridge. I should have clarified. I've had conversations with them about what they can do, but I'd recommend GC29 use a local expert copier. Thanks! Dave
  2. Yeah...patience will pay off. I'm a few hours away, in Cooperstown. I'll try and hook you up if you message me. You're surrounded by vintage-savvy luthiers. Hey Dave, just listed my '35 L00 on Reverb. I have the shakes.
  3. Hopefully, you are in a more densely populated area, where you can access a vintage guitar tech, who'll know and respect the value of your gift. Start hunting and asking around music shops for this person. You'll also want your copied bridge to be Braz Rosewood. This guy is a good start. They'll make you one that will require a final fitting by your luthier. https://reverb.com/item/38904255-martin-style-brazilian-rosewood-straight-bridge Looks like a big fat ol' J45. A good one, for sure!
  4. Funny, this issue is alive now on the UMGF, a little worse than yours. The classic fix is what they're describing. You shouldn't worry about tone being affected, though, however, as you say, a replacement guitar wouldn't be a good option. My cautioning just refers to making sure they would back you up if their fix wore out down the road. https://umgf.com/viewtopic.php?p=2616313#p2616313
  5. I would suggest this is a peghead drilled out sloppily, and if their fix involves trying to fill and re-drill, or some other 'band-aid' fix, you have a conversation about what kind of support you can expect should the issue return. Dave
  6. Hah! I wrote that just to see if you were awake.
  7. From what I'm reading, I don't think it can be played here and now, but there are remarkable 'mechanics' out there that can put the brace and thus, the top, back in order to attain some semblance of the geometry you need to play. Lowering string gauge is probably necessary. I play 13s tuned down a step D-D anyway, which is 30 pounds of pull less than 12s in standard tuning.
  8. Sorry, man. Nobody left here but me. Everyone bought Chinese made Guilds and went over to the LTG forum.
  9. The trouble with trying to re-glue it in place is you can't clean it well enough to get wood on wood contact. The pick guard adhesive should clean off with naptha.
  10. Nope, you're stuck, brother. Gotta' go to the bridge doctor. That looks like there's a little underside re-profiling to be done, too. Many have tried to reattach, all have failed.
  11. I've used many small ones, Dave, and surely the technique is the same, keeping everything wet and in motion through the positioning process. The potential problem I see is that if you don't put a couple layers of lacquer over it, it will be super vulnerable to scratching off at the slightest contact.
  12. The saddle looks ridiculously tall, though hard to get a correct perspective from photos. My simple answer would be yes, in combo with the heavier strings and high break angle, pushing hard forward, it might have pressured a natural check in the material and nudged a crack open. If it was my guitar I'd bring it to a qualified luthier and get a fresh setup incl new bone saddle. Sounds like it needs to be dialed in professionally, after which you'll be amazed.
  13. I always enjoyed the debate over what got called L0 and what was L00, so I looked at the lower sound hole and bridge placement as the notable difference on my '31 L0 and '35 L00. I don't think any mahogany top version was called L00, but spruce tops were called L0. It did cause different tone features, but then one was spruce and one hog, so how can it be compared. Body dimensions and top bracing on these two was identical. I found out later there were many incongruous labeling schemes in calling them 0 or 00. I also recall many of these debates/discussions here producing no conclusive rul
  14. This is a characteristic of the classic vintage LG2 style, intentionally copied by Gibson. Perfect! Nice guitar.
  15. That's a complex set of questions, especially given that your ear isn't too happy with the tone. There are saddle swap out stories pro, con and more I've read here. The two adj bridge guitars I owned, a 60's B25 and a later J45, were subject to my trial and error. Hated ceramic, rosewood was quiet, and bone was best, but I still detected a hollowness. Again, just my own ears. In the end, I removed both, including the grommets, and had rosewood belly down bridges put on. For what it was, I was happier with the tone, and feel the contact with the top was truer in how it resonated and wore in
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