The Epi G-400 Les Paul Custom

[ESPJDR17]

Ok, I'm about done playing the factory strings. When I go to change them I have some real thick strings for it. They are the DR DDT12-60's. I haven't adjusted the action yet because I'm going to such heavy strings so my question is if the nut is too low can I shim it or do you just replace it? The action at the bridge is kinda high which gives me something to work with but the action down around the 1st fret & nut is super low. I'm worried that I might have a problem.

Thanks

[RaSTuS]

You can shim a nut using metal or wood, you still want as much a solid contact as possible, it's a lot better to use a new nut though. One of the problems you might encounter going to such thick strings is the strings binding in the nut slots, so they'll mos likely need widening a little. The easiest way to check nut height is to fret the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret, the bottom of the string should clear the 1st fret by about 0.010" (0.25mm). Another problem going to such heavy strings is the truss-rod will almost certainly need adjusting, there will be far more tension placed on the neck.

[ESPJDR17]

You can shim a nut using metal or wood, you still want as much a solid contact as possible, it's a lot better to use a new nut though. One of the problems you might encounter going to such thick strings is the strings binding in the nut slots, so they'll mos likely need widening a little. The easiest way to check nut height is to fret the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret, the bottom of the string should clear the 1st fret by about 0.010" (0.25mm). Another problem going to such heavy strings is the truss-rod will almost certainly need adjusting, there will be far more tension placed on the neck.

Ok, I have some brass nut shims that came with a OFR nut that I never used but they might need cut (they're probably wider). About the neck tension, will I still most likely encounter this problem even though this guitar is my drop C tuned guitar? Thanks.

[RaSTuS]

Ok, I have some brass nut shims that came with a OFR nut that I never used but they might need cut (they're probably wider). About the neck tension, will I still most likely encounter this problem even though this guitar is my drop C tuned guitar? Thanks.

The dropped tuning might help a little, an easy way to check neck relief is to put a capo at the 1st fret, then fret it at the fret where the neck meets the body, about halfway between those two points (about the 9th fret on an SG) the bottom of the string should clear the fret by between 0.015" and 0.025" (0.4mm and 0.6mm), about the thickness of a business card.

[ESPJDR17]

The dropped tuning might help a little, an easy way to check neck relief is to put a capo at the 1st fret, then fret it at the fret where the neck meets the body, about halfway between those two points (about the 9th fret on an SG) the bottom of the string should clear the fret by between 0.015" and 0.025" (0.4mm and 0.6mm), about the thickness of a business card.

So worst case scenario: I put the beastly huge strings on and I fret out everywhere, I know you turn the truss rod a quarter turn at a time (a careful person waits a half an hour in between adjustments) and I know I'll want more neck relief. Which way is more relief? Down (away from you) or up (toward yourself?)

[RaSTuS]

So worst case scenario: I put the beastly huge strings on and I fret out everywhere, I know you turn the truss rod a quarter turn at a time (a careful person waits a half an hour in between adjustments) and I know I'll want more neck relief. Which way is more relief? Down (away from you) or up (toward yourself?)

You'll probably want to adjust it for less relief, the heavy strings will add more relief through the extra tension. Relief is a forward bow, so that the frets dip slightly in the middle, this is where the strings vibrate the most so the frets need to be further away from the strings there.

 

Looking at your guitar from the headstock end, CCW = more relief, CW = less relief (straighter).

[ESPJDR17]

You'll probably want to adjust it for less relief, the heavy strings will add more relief through the extra tension. Relief is a forward bow, so that the frets dip slightly in the middle, this is where the strings vibrate the most so the frets need to be further away from the strings there.

 

Looking at your guitar from the headstock end, CCW = more relief, CW = less relief (straighter).

So your talking looking at the truss rod from the headstock? Like I'm looking in the truss rod hole, I'll want to turn it clockwise? So what your saying is in my worse case scenario I won't be fretting out but have super high action that needs adjusted? I would have thought the opposite, good info man. Thanks!

[RaSTuS]

So your talking looking at the truss rod from the headstock? Like I'm looking in the truss rod hole, I'll want to turn it clockwise? So what your saying is in my worse case scenario I won't be fretting out but have super high action that needs adjusted? I would have thought the opposite, good info man. Thanks!

Yes, like looking down the truss-rod hole. You won't really know which way it needs to be turned until you check the relief first, but more than likely you'll need to go CW a touch to counter the extra tension from the thicker strings.

 

I've been working on drafting a short setup guide, these questions come up all the time, here it is, just keep in mind it's only in draft form at this stage, thought the info should be correct. The reason I changed the relief height in your case is because of the thicker strings vibrating more.

 

=========================================================================

To check nut height (slot depth):

Fret the low E string between the 2nd and 3rd frets, there should be a gap of 0.15mm and 0.20mm (0.006" and 0.008") between the bottom of the string and the top of the 1st fret, repeat on the high E, you should only need to check the E strings on a pre-cut nut.

 

To check neck relief:

Put a capo on the 1st fret, then fret on the fret one past the neck/body join, there should be a gap of between 0.40mm and 0.50mm (0.015" and 0.020"), about the thickness of a business card, between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret at the half way point between these two fretted points, check the low E, you can also check the high E to check for a twisted neck, both E's should be the same.

 

If both the above check out then it's just a matter of adjusting the bridge height just high enough to eliminate the fret buzz when strummed hard.

 

These measurements are my personal preference, but using them you should be able to get a nice low buzz free action. Also I didn't give fret numbers for the neck/body join and the halfway point as this will vary from model to model, and this method should be transferable to any model electric guitar.

 

A few notes:

+ This assumes all frets are seated and have been leveled properly.

* Always have the strings tuned up before doing any of the height/gap measurements or checking for fret buzz.

* Thicker strings will require more relief, simply because they vibrate in a greater arc.

+ Always have the strings slackened before adjusting the truss-rod or raising the bridge height.

* When adjusting the truss-rod, looking at your guitar from the headstock end, CCW = more relief, CW = less relief (straighter).

* Only adjust the truss-rod a maximum of 1/4 at a time, then wait an hour or more before the next adjustment, this is to allow the neck to settle.

* This is the methods I like to use, there are other methods, I find this the best because you are actually using the strings to dial the various heights in.

[ESPJDR17]

Great rough draft guide Rastus, thanks for that!

[Lefty Bill]

You've provided a great outline regarding truss rod adjustments, Rob. The footnotes are concise and deserved mentioning as some owners may overlook a minor fault and hope that a truss rod adjustment will correct some elusive issue.

 

I'm in complete agreement with your suggestion of up to 1/4 turn at a time.. I recently took some pics of the severity of 1/2 turn of the TR nut while I was examining the 2 types of TRs.

 

The TR nuts shown here were turned CW to where they were just firmly seated at a zero deflection point, then turned 1/2 turn.

 

Typical single action TR:

 

 

 

Newer dual action TR:

 

 

 

I hope these images show that a TR nut adjustment of 1/2 turn is fairly severe.

 

Bill