Dave F
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Posts posted by Dave F
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There's a pinned THREAD just for this discussion that should give you plenty of opinions
Welcome to the forum
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Here's the BRW he made for the '42 LG1
The original was butchered up. He offered to rebuild it but I decided to put it in the case for the next guy.
Original. I don't get the double saddle.
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Previous owner had the bridge shaved down to avoid a neck reset. I had the neck reset and the new bridge made.
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Here's my two all mahogany guitars with a couple other friends
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50 years ago I was 17 and getting ready for my senior year in HS. Great summer. I didn't have to worry about the draft for another 2 years. One of my older brothers was serving in Nam at the time.
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I agree with most of the comments.
Things to consider -
Those vintage tuners are 12:1 ratio. If you're used to more modern tuners these could be a PIA. I'd prefer to have some more modern ones that make me happy and keep the vintage ones in the case for the next guy.
Whether the bridge is period correct or not, if you remove it, that footprint will still be there. If done right, the area beneath the bridge should be bare wood. I have a '42-'43 J45 that I had a new bridge made. It was BRW and nowhere near $300. IMO oversized bridges to cover up footprints look hideous.
Also, if you're determined to get it restored send to to a luthier with a great reputation with vintage guitars. The extra cost and wait will be worth it. I'm lucky to have a great one near me. Most members here will tell you the better the luthier, the longer your wait will be.
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NGD
in Gibson USA
Nice!
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Welcome
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I'm starting to like it
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These are real nice guitars. I have one of the Model A ones with the signature.
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They use the same size case for the smeck and stage deluxe.
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Here's one of our members demo of an all mahogany '42 LG1 and the reissue that Gibson built using his vintage guitar as a model.
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There’s a J45 and LG2 all mahogany versions out there from recent runs that you could find if you do a little searching.
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ebay would be your best source
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Welcome to the forum!
Looks to be in really nice shape & nice to know the history.
Stewmac.com has some nice repos that should fit.
Look at this site to help determine if it's a L48 (made '46-'71) or L50 ('32-'71)
http://www.guitarhq.com/gibson2.html
There's some members here that can tell the difference.
Normally the FON can be seen through the treble f-hole
This site may help if you find the FON
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80 +/-
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I picked this up for a song today. I'm planning on taking the tuners, add some new buttons and moving them to another guitar. I'll put some repos on this one.
This one is quite weathered with one top crack and one side crack, nothing drastic. The neck is remarkably straight and the fretboard shows very little wear.
I'm guessing it's a KG-32 but I'm not for sure. Mahogany back and sides, spruce top.
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On 5/29/2019 at 6:16 PM, derek R said:
That worked for me to,but had to change a password I’ve used for years.
You can go in your settings and change it back
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Rabs straightened most of us out. You must use your screen name pappy for the sign in then whatever your password is.
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We're coming up on #48.
Sounds like you two had a great life and it looks like you gave her a great send off. Sorry for your loss but congratulations on the wonderful life you two shared. I really enjoy all the videos you two have out there and you'll have them to look back on as you carry on.
Best wishes,
Dave
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Sometimes a thin piece of rock maple over the existing plate will work
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All Parts makes nice replacements but you would have to add the pu cut outs.
Les Paul STD too bright (2018)
in Gibson USA
Posted
I had a '68 Custom RI that I really liked the play and sound but sold because it was too heavy and I did not like the triburst. I sold it a few years ago.
A couple of years ago I picked up this standard. A few pounds lighter and I prefer the desert burst. I did not like the Burstbuckers Pro that came with it. Too bright.
I put a set of '57 Classic Plus in it and I had the sound I wanted. I also added a Bigsby.