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Dave F

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Everything posted by Dave F

  1. I had one identical to this. Y serial number with 20 fret neck. Sold it a few years ago. My luthier who is very good said he saw no signs of the neck ever being replaced. He said it was not unusual for Gibson to mix match necks and bodies within a year or two. I had the saddle slot filled and remachined to correct the intonation. Your saddle looks like a makeshift being short on length and choppy on the ends so you may want to check out the intonation. Handed down guitars are special. Take care of it, play it and treasure it.
  2. I'm no expert on them but I think it's mainly the materials and decor. Here's the specs from 2016 like the one I recently acquired. I see on the new ones they are using richlite. http://legacy.gibson.com/Products/Acoustic-Instruments/2016/Doves-in-Flight-Quilt.aspx There were different versions of the DIF like everything else. Here's a RW version from 2016 http://legacy.gibson.com/Products/Acoustic-Instruments/2016/Doves-in-Flight-Mystic-Rosewood.aspx
  3. Bb gets my vote. Guitar and voice sound better.
  4. Red label CS if this is the one. The one shown busted up looks like a standard
  5. I didn't watch the video, I just noticed the cracks lined up and the gap looks patched in the same area.
  6. What you think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gibson-J200-Damaged-/274294924661?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=hGmaxIJXqoaxRON%2FUP3Y2oSfB9w%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc
  7. Just from my experience, I don’t think maple nor rosewood works well on small bodied guitars. That’s where I prefer mahogany.
  8. Still on a honeymoon with the DIF. Check back in a year or two .
  9. I've had a couple J200 standard maples. One was very good and I wish I still had it. Here's my current group of maples. I'm really liking the DIF. If it's just maple you're looking for there's plenty of models out there. Square shouldered are limited. Someone recently posted their NL they just received. Here's my maple line up L5 - F5 - Super 400 - ES175 Fender Tele Select - DIF - J185 - LC Century of Progress - L1 F hole - LP
  10. I remember being in the 5th grade, the nuns housekeeper came into the classroom and took Sister Leticia out into the hallway. She came back in crying and announced that President Kennedy had been shot and that we should all go home.
  11. I had a similar scare a couple months ago. I was in the middle of a trade for a DIF and my Jackson Browne. When we came to terms, I took my advertised "mint" guitar out of the case and saw this crack. It was very embarrassing. Luckily it was just in the finish and there were no signs of cracks on the underside. As far as repairs, I feel lucky to have a very good luthier locally. When he was associated with the local GC he was authorized to do almost any warranty repairs for any brand. I've used him often enough that I feel comfortable enough to estimate repairs when shopping guitars.
  12. Here’s my LG1 from that era next to a RI
  13. He says it's a 1943 LG1 but from what I read the LG1 was only made in one lot in '42 and shipped out over the next few years and they were all mahogany and brown. The ladder braced LG1 were post war. Whatever it is, he's good.
  14. I never noticed that spike when I used them
  15. A little over a year ago I setup a music room. I found that the dehumidification was easier. I bought one unit with a pump so it would drain constantly. Takes care of the entire lower level of the house. For humidification I had to contain it to the room. I have 5 monitors in the music room and a few more throughout the house. I really enjoy the guitars setting out. They get played more often. I have about 36 of them setting out. Before that I used the humidipaks plus had a few of the bluetooth monitors in the cases of the more expensive guitars. Except for occasionally emitting white dust I had no issues. There has been a few reports of the paks leaking and damaging finishes. No matter what you use, you need to monitor the process.
  16. Received the CD the other day. Just gave it a quick sampling and it sounds good. I need to transfer it to a thumb drive and listen to it when traveling back and forth to work.
  17. The Arlo Guthrie LG2 3/4. They also produced a slew of off shore guitars under the Maestro brand with 1/2 versions of their acoustic and electrics.
  18. For my preference the rule of thumb is .000-.005" neck relief, nut slot adjustment for the 1st fret string height is high E at .012" with each string increasing .002" (.012-.014-.016-.018-.020-.022). If you look at the handwritten numbers on the warranty/inspection pamphlet that comes with the guitar, they usually write 22 - 12 regardless of what the actuals are. The 12th fret measurements are usually in 64ths nomenclature. I usually target the high E around .040" and increase each string .004" (.040-.044-.048-.052-.056-.060). I don't get too picky. Most of my friends prefer .055-.075." The Bluegrassers prefer .060-.090 (.005 per string) a little more on the bass strings. SInce the radius of the frets are usually 12" I target a tad higher (12.125-12.250) for the saddle. The Martins are 16" radius and I adjust for that and also adjust for a BG setup. This usually produces what I want. Since the 12th fret is the midway point for the scale length, measuring the height at the 12th and removing double the amount I want to lower and removing that from the saddle allows me to hit the target 1st time, every time. No going back and forth. If I have a saddle that's too low, I just measure it and increase the new one.
  19. Great to hear from you! Great job as usual.
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