low E buzz/rattle

[wiltel24]

Put a new set of D'Addario 10-46 strings on my '74 Les Paul. I like the G-B-E ones ok, but the low E in particular seems very twangy and buzzes (can hear it some thru the amp, too) on certain frets, like 7th, 9th and some others. Open it's fine played open and A and D are ok. Do I have a bad string, or is action too low, or what could be going on?

[Riptide]

Put a new set of D'Addario 10-46 strings on my '74 Les Paul. I like the G-B-E ones ok, but the low E in particular seems very twangy and buzzes (can hear it some thru the amp, too) on certain frets, like 7th, 9th and some others. Open it's fine played open and A and D are ok. Do I have a bad string, or is action too low, or what could be going on?

How long have you had the strings on? Often new strings will buzz until they are broken in. It could be an action issue... make sure your guitar is set up properly and particularly that the neck relief is good. If none of that works you probably have a bad fret/frets.

 

I have had buzzing issues with my low E on my LP Jr. I just raised the action a bit and now its fine.

 

Setup Guide:

"Neck Relief: fret the low E at the first and 15th fret (not 12th) reach to the 7th fret and tap string. There should be a small space between string and fret - no thicker than a piece of paper. Do the same with the high E.

 

Action: fret low E at first fret and measure the distance from the bottom of the to the top of the 15th fret. It should be 5/64". Do the same with the high E, measurement should be 3/64". Now measure the string height at the nut; underside of the string to the top of the fret. Low E and A should measure 2/64", D and G =1.5/64" and B and high E = 1/64". If string height at nut is correct, recheck string height at 12th fret with strings open. Measurement for low and high E's should be the same as measurement taken at the 15th.

 

Pickups: Fret low E at 22nd fret and measure pickup height from underside of string to point on pickup closest to string. Bridge pickup should be 3/32", neck pickup should be 4/32". Fret high E at 22nd fret, distance for both pickups should be 3/32".

 

Play test: Play every string at every fret checking for buzzes. Bend High E string 1 and 1/2 steps, beginning at the sixth fret and ending at 22nd, checking for "choking" and to make sure string stays in nut notch."

 

*Note: I have to raise my low E to about 6/64th so it doesn't buzz.

[Guest Farnsbarns]

What was on it before?

 

Have you changed gauge/brand? If so, have you checked the neck relief with the new stings?

 

New strings can be a bit jangly, I assume it's more than that?

 

Have you wound the new strings "under" on the tuner post? If not, they should be, one bi-product of that is maximising break angle.

 

Have you checked the bridge saddle is completely seated? They can be a tiny bit lifted and the scew head can touch the strung (abr1 only).

 

Could you have inadvertently adjusted the bridge while the strings were off?

 

Did you stretch the strings after putting them on?

 

Were the strings off all at once for any amount of time? If so, the neck can take a day to settle.

[wiltel24]

What was on it before?

 

Have you changed gauge/brand? If so, have you checked the neck relief with the new stings?

 

New strings can be a bit jangly, I assume it's more than that?

 

Have you wound the new strings "under" on the tuner post? If not, they should be, one bi-product of that is maximising break angle.

 

Have you checked the bridge saddle is completely seated? They can be a tiny bit lifted and the scew head can touch the strung (abr1 only).

 

Could you have inadvertently adjusted the bridge while the strings were off?

 

Did you stretch the strings after putting them on?

 

Were the strings off all at once for any amount of time? If so, the neck can take a day to settle.

 

Had some Dunlops before, same gauge. Guitar was set up by a pro luthier. So hopefully he knew what to do. Main concern is that it's audible thru amp to some degree. Thanks.

[capmaster]

Had some Dunlops before, same gauge. Guitar was set up by a pro luthier. So hopefully he knew what to do. Main concern is that it's audible thru amp to some degree. Thanks.

Besides the points talked before, there are differences in material and make between different string brands. The wound ones may have a different ratio of core wire gauge to winding gauge. There are round and hex cores, and the materials of core and winding may be different, too. This could result in the need of different adjustments for different string brands, of neck relief, string action and intonation as well, despite of using same gauges.

 

Dead and live frequencies may also play their role. Every wooden guitar has them more or less significantly. In case a certain string, fretted at a certain fret and attacked at a certain point, puts out a decent level of a live frequency, the magnitude of vibration might cause string buzz which has nothing to do with the condition of the fret you fret it at. It might not be faulty or worn, it's just the combination of guitar, string, picking position and intensity.

 

On many of my guitars I have to deal with the D4th of the string brand and gauges I use. Especially the live spots of my Fenders call for higher action there, and to avoid imbalances in playabilty, I adjust the other strings a bit higher also on hardtail Fenders. The Floyd Rose systems by design don't leave me no other choice, of course, like Tune-O-Matics don't, too.

[Guest Farnsbarns]

Had some Dunlops before, same gauge. Guitar was set up by a pro luthier. So hopefully he knew what to do. Main concern is that it's audible thru amp to some degree. Thanks.

 

Well, as my esteemed friend, Capmaster, says, changing brand means you may need to change your set up. That aside, how about the other things I mentioned?

 

Saddle seated?

 

Strings been streached?

 

Given neck time to settle?

 

Wound under?

 

Bridge adjusted inadvertently?

 

 

Just as an aside, I have seen guitars that were "set up by pro luthiers" that were unplayable, just making a point, I'm sure your guitar was playing fine before the change so I'm sure your man is great, but, I suggest learning how to set your guitar up yourself. It really isn't hard, can save you a fortune, especially in a place where humidity changes a lot from summer to winter, and you always get the set up you want. It also means you can do things like change string brand whenever you fancy it.

[btoth76]

Hello!

 

Besides all that have been said, there is another thing to watch out for.

 

Usually when I change strings, I also clean the instrument. That means, I remove the pickguard, the bridge and the tailpiece.

 

When I reinstall all the hardware and put the new strings on, I have to adjust the string height, since the bridge is not returned to same height as it was before.

 

And, yes: new strings are always twangy for the first couple of days.

 

Cheers... Bence