setting up my Sherri

[macoshark]

Hows everyone today? I acquired a "03" Sheraton recently and really like playing her. I have also been spending a lot of time here reading posts to eduacate myself on the histroy of Epiphone, thanks to unoffical wiki and others.

Of course now I would like to play and hear some of the special epiphones the are even more desirable. Until then I would like to get the most out of my 03. One thing that I'm noticing is the tuning on my sherri. It seems finicky.Especially the G string, which is unwound.I've played around with intonation and everything seems sufficent.

I guess what I'm getting at is should I have a bone nut put professionally so I can ruleout that element of tuning as a cause ofhavint to keep adjusting the keys. There are no markings on the stock tuners but they seem to be adequate. Anyone been through this?

[Victek]

One thing that I'm noticing is the tuning on my sherri. It seems finicky.Especially the G string, which is unwound.I've played around with intonation and everything seems sufficient.

I guess what I'm getting at is should I have a bone nut put professionally so I can rule out that element of tuning as a cause of having to keep adjusting the keys. There are no markings on the stock tuners but they seem to be adequate. Anyone been through this?

 

Can you say more about "finicky"? After you've tuned it is it in tune all across the fretboard? If so then it's not an intonation problem. Does it go out of tune after string bending? Going a little flat is normal after rigorous bending, but if it's more than that it could be an issue with the tuners, or too many string wraps on the heads. If the strings tend to jump in pitch when you tune they may be binding in the nut - you can try putting some powdered graphite in the slots. And by the way are the strings new and what gauge?

[vomer]

Welcome, macoshark. The nut in my 04 Sheraton is definitely finicky. Despite pencil graphite lubrication, and going over it with a nut file. I will make a new nut for it when I get around to it. It could be you need to get a new nut. Can't comment on your tuners though, mine were Grovers and worked fine (till I dropped it and broke one.)

 

And, what Victek said.

 

And, if you don't know about the pencil lead trick, take a pencil and a sharp blade and scrape some filings into each slot.

[macoshark]

thnx Victek, It does sound tuned across the fretboard after tuning with tuner or by ear. With tuner, the needle doesn't instanly register on hitting the G string like the E1 and B.I have to strike a little harder before it registers up to tuned or at all. JUst thought I'd mention that.

The other 2 things you mentioned was (1) the pitch "jumping" when tuning. My tuner has a green light for dead on and a red lights on either side for flat or sharp, along with numbers.I notice more often than not the tuning is difficult to get precise on zero or the stedy green.It does like to waver into sharp or flat. I seem to be turning the key a lot even when I'm getting close to zero.Again just mentioning this to see if it's normal or a symptom of one thing or the other. I'm not sure what your referring to when you say " Jumping".

The other was too many wraps on the head. I just put on new strings but the others were tuning the same as I've mentioned above. I try to give a new string one wrap and then go through the key hole and start winding up?

I looked at eh nut and the strings look Ok the way they sit but honestly I, really not sure what should look optimal or not. Thnx for trying to help me. I not sure if I'm explaing this well enough.

[macoshark]

Vomer, just saw your post,thanks. I will probably go for the bone nut and go from there. Just trying to see what's typical on this tuning thing.I've never really moitered tuning on my other guitars like this sherri. I would like to have it as good as it can be for my level of playing. I forgot to mention to Viktek that I am bending a lot because I'm practicing scales and improvising so it's not so boring. NOt bending consistently but just adding here and there for spice.I'm thinking it's more than thatbut again not sure.

[Victek]

I seem to be turning the key a lot even when I'm getting close to zero.Again just mentioning this to see if it's normal or a symptom of one thing or the other. I'm not sure what your referring to when you say " Jumping".

 

The other was too many wraps on the head. I just put on new strings but the others were tuning the same as I've mentioned above. I try to give a new string one wrap and then go through the key hole and start winding up?

 

 

I looked at eh nut and the strings look Ok the way they sit but honestly I, really not sure what should look optimal or not. Thnx for trying to help me. I not sure if I'm explaining this well enough.

 

Yeah, "jumping" isn't very clear :) If a string is binding in the nut then as you tune it you may here a "pop" or "ping" when the string finally slides. If a string can't slide freely but instead moves in jumps it will be hard to get it precisely on pitch.

 

Regarding tuners, one advantage of locking tuners is they minimize the string wrap. Personally I haven't found "wrap" to be a big contributor to tuning instability, but it's a variable and worth looking at. As you say I try to wrap just once and then pass the string through head. As long as there's no slack in the string there won't be many wraps when you tune it. As long as your tuners are not slipping I'd look at other things first.

[macoshark]

Yeah, "jumping" isn't very clear :) If a string is binding in the nut then as you tune it you may here a "pop" or "ping" when the string finally slides. If a string can't slide freely but instead moves in jumps it will be hard to get it precisely on pitch.

 

Regarding tuners, one advantage of locking tuners is they minimize the string wrap. Personally I haven't found "wrap" to be a big contributor to tuning instability, but it's a variable and worth looking at. As you say I try to wrap just once and then pass the string through head. As long as there's no slack in the string there won't be many wraps when you tune it. As long as your tuners are not slipping I'd look at other things first.

[macoshark]

oops- doubleing this one.... OK, got it victec..I'll try some of the tips and see where that takes me.. I do have another queston on intonation. When using the tuner and comparing open string to fretted 12th are you looking for exact duplication? I understand the whole shorter string is sharper and vice versa, jusst wondering if I should be looking for exactly the same on the meter.

[vomer]

When using the tuner and comparing open string to fretted 12th are you looking for exact duplication?

 

I take it you mean the open string harmonic at the 12th and the fretted 12th, yes they should be the same.

[Victek]

When using the tuner and comparing open string to fretted 12th are you looking for exact duplication? I understand the whole shorter string is sharper and vice versa, just wondering if I should be looking for exactly the same on the meter.

 

Basically yes, you want the note at the 12th fret to be a precise octave of the open string. Here's a how to.

 

http://www.wikihow.com/Set-Your-Guitar%27s-Intonation

[macoshark]

thanks guys

[Brian Cecil]

One thing that I'm noticing is the tuning on my sherri. It seems finicky.Especially the G string, which is unwound.

Its because of stuff like this that I only use wound G strings. And because I really don't like tuning problems in general, I use flatwound strings on my electric guitars.

[macoshark]

thanks Brian-- what string brand do you use with the wound G string?

[jimmi accardi]

I use GHS Guitar Boomers DYXL 10-46. It comes with a wound 18 G string.

[macoshark]

Jimmi- thnx I'll check them out

[Brian Cecil]

thanks Brian-- what string brand do you use with the wound G string?

I use Thomastik-Infeld strings. I use the George Benson 12-gauge on my Sheri, and the Jazz Swing series in either 10 or 11 gauge on my other electrics. In my experience, they are much better than round wounds in terms of staying in tune and providing good intonation. Plus, they last forever.

[Victek]

I use Thomastik-Infeld strings. I use the George Benson 12-gauge on my Sheri, and the Jazz Swing series in either 10 or 11 gauge on my other electrics. In my experience, they are much better than round wounds in terms of staying in tune and providing good intonation. Plus, they last forever.

 

Hmm, not sure why they would be better in terms of intonation and staying in tune, but flat wound strings do make a lot less noise when you slide up and down on them

[Versatile]

Many players have problems of one type or another with the 3rd G string...

 

I tend to live with it, preferring single strand 3rds

 

One common sense tip is to always tune upwards from below pitch to alleviate any tension above the nut...

 

New strings need to be 'stretched' to attain stability...

 

V

 

[Kurt Vonnegut Fan]

I'm a big fan of wound G strings, too. Has anybody noticed how the common G string complaints virtually never show up in the acoustic forums?

[Brian Cecil]

Hmm, not sure why they would be better in terms of intonation and staying in tune, but flat wound strings do make a lot less noise when you slide up and down on them

I have no idea why either -- but I'm certainly happy with it! I started using them first on my Sherri because I wanted a less noisy string, since I do a lot sliding. I got the silent sliding, which I wanted, but I had no idea I'd also get the very welcome side benefits of better intonation and much more stable tuning. Add to that the longer service life, which more than offsets the increased cost, and that explains why I have them now on all my electrics (except for my Rickenbacker 12-string -- but when I change strings on it next time, it'll be to TI flats as well).

[macoshark]

Sure appreciate all the tips. I went ahead and worked on my neck relief before I changed the bridge height. I was getting buzz fromthe D and A string around the 5th fret. 1st time doing that. I had to add relief, about a 1/4 turn CCW. the action seems a little high though. I'm going to measure it tomorrow and see what people think. I don't play soft so maybe that caused some of the buzz. It's crazy looking up truss rod adjustment on the net. One luthier says keep the strings tuned while another says no string tension. I will say the response was immediate to the adjustment. The string height now doesn't bother me,more so the "idea" that the height could be closer to the fretboard and I'm missing something does.

I was also told a wound G will intonate better than a single string, more mass?