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vomer

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About vomer

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  1. Wildkat, did you desolder the hot wire before you tested the pickup the first time? Because if you didn't you could have been reading the fault somewhere downstream of the pickup. And I'm a bit confused now because you're measuring the hot at the pot and getting a typical resistance reading (sorry to state the obvious, but do you have the meter set to the 20K range?) Can I suggest, desolder the hot from the pot, it should be on the outer lug, and measure between the hot wire and the back of the pot. That way, any fault has to be in the pickup. If it reads OK, then we start the detective work. (Or at least re-flowing all your solder joints.)
  2. You're welcome! Yes, definitely easiest to just replace. I can never resist taking things apart though .
  3. Yes, that combination of a faint audio signal and an open circuit does indicate a break. It's possible it might be the lead wires to coil wires connection, so if you were feeling adventurous you could open up the tape over the coil and have a look at the join. Or even remove a couple of dozen turns of coil and see if you find an obvious fault. It's probably not worth getting that pickup re-wired if it's a standard Epi pup. And they do come up on ebay fairly regularly for not much. You might even sell the dead one for a few bucks.
  4. Hi, welcome. Epiphone almost never release numbers unless it's very special editions like the '1962' models. Yours is basically a Custom with a couple of different parts, I wouldn't say it was particularly desirable just because it was a limited edition. Have a look at 'completed listings' on ebay for Customs and see what the usual amount is.
  5. None of that explains the situation albatross describes. You're confusing a relatively simple wiring difference with the nuances of pots. "50's style" wiring = independent volume controls. "modern style" wiring = in the middle position "if EITHER of the volume controls is set to minimum there is no output at all."
  6. Always a good idea to replace the switch anyway. Yes, you will need to get a reading of that pickup. Keep us updated!
  7. Welcome Albatross. Sorry mihcmac but what you said is not correct. It doesn't matter what pots you use or whether there is coil tapping, it is to do with the 'style' of wiring. Usually referred to as 50's style or modern style. There's a Seymour Duncan blog post which explains it here.... Edit: that's not that well written, but it gives the general idea. You could google for similar and get a clearer picture.
  8. Sorry typo, that should say 99 not 89. But Samick did make some up to 2001. Roshambo if you're in any doubt, google Samick Sheraton bridge. You will also find out the rest of what I said is correct. AldoMcD1, it's not at all difficult to identify these without the serial number, in fact it helps because they were stuck on. And the large e on the guard is quite usual.
  9. Asking the obvious first, is it OK in any switch position? It sounds like it's developed a break in the winding. The theory for there still being some signal is that the are behind the break develops capacitance which allows some signal to flow. To test if it is the pickup, you will have to desolder the 'hot' wire (preferably both wires) and check the DC resistance with a multimeter. If you don't have one a cheap one will work fine, they are ten-twenty quid on ebay.
  10. Hi roshambo, I don't know why no-one replied. I don't get here that often, so apologies it's taken this long! Yours is a Korean, made in the Samick factory between 1986 and 89 or thereabouts. The headstock is typical of that period, and the big giveaway is the bridge. It's 'fatter' than any other tuneamatic, and is only 72mm wide which for years was a pain if you wanted to replace it, but there are some options now. Those Sheratons usually had the serial number on a sticker on the back of the headstock so it's not unusual for them to be lost. And the ah, 'creative' tuner alignment isn't unusual for the Koreans either. Lovely looking guitar, hope you enjoy it. PS don't know about the E on the guard, I've never seen one before . Thing is, they usually fall off anyway.
  11. Had a reply from wdmusic in the UK, "Definitely 73mm. This bridge has fitted some other customers Samick Epiphone's but not others so if your one is 72mm then I wouldn't advise buying this unit. We don't have any at 72mm unfortunately." And a reply from the ebay seller latexandleather who says they are definitely 72mm. Watch this space...
  12. Mihcmac, that's fantastic, thanks very much. Edit to add: The listings on wdmusic.com and wdmusic.co.uk are slightly different. On .com there is no post to post measure given, on .co.uk it says 73mm. I've emailed wdmusic.co.uk to ask. (The ebay listing says 72mm.) I also saw conversion posts by Kluson for Samick so you can put a US fit bridge on. It's great to see these, I googled a lot, earlier today but it looked like everyone stopped talking about Samick bridges around about 2010! So someone at Kluson somehow become aware of the problem. And hopefully has fixed it. I'll post again if I get a definitive answer from wd or Kluson.
  13. It's been a long time since I looked for an aftermarket bridge to fit a Samick Sheraton, and it always used to be that there were no direct fit replacements available, as the old chunky odd-looking Samick bridges were also an unusual post-to-post dimension. Does anyone know if there are any replacements available these days? Thanks.
  14. If you're going to upgrade the wiring anyway, try doing that first. It might save you a change of pickups.
  15. Umm yeah, no. More pics please, of nut, bridge, neck to body join if it's a bolt on neck, and a view of the whole of the front of the guitar body. And, what sort of guitar is it?
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