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Urgent - g string saddle


Pinch

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I guess my question is - how to I get the washer to stay, and not slide down on the threaded party of the screw?

 

It's like it's come loose from it's groove - I wanna screw the saddle back, without the washer following it. Any advice would be great.

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Basically, what happened was, the G saddle was as far back as it could go. I removed the G string, and I guess the saddle somehow came loose (I barely touched it). Can't get the end of the screw to stay in the bridge. Let's say the last hyphen below - furthest to the right - is what i refer to as the end of the intonation screw, the first "I" the head of the screw, and the second "I" from the left is the washer:

 

I-I----

 

When the end of the screw is in the bridge, and I turn the screwdriver to get the saddle where I want it (way back), the washer wants to go right/toward the middle of the threading.

 

Argh. If it's not one thing, it's another. Please tell me it's an easy fix. Guess I'll take it in tomorrow morning.

 

LockTone bridge on Epi LP, btw.

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After taking a look at my Epiphone Lock Tone bridge I fear there is no easy fix. [crying]

 

To me it looks like it's not an extra washer but a bead being part of the screw for holding it in position. It seems to be the same design basically as found on Gibson ABR-1 bridges.

 

I think you will need a replacement for that screw. Perhaps you may find a makeshift like putting a pack of shims between bridge housing and saddle matching intonation. I suggest swapping the screws between G3rd and E1st. The E1st will call for much less shims.

 

Good luck!

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After taking a look at my Epiphone Lock Tone bridge I fear there is no easy fix. [crying]

 

To me it looks like it's not an extra washer but a bead being part of the screw for holding it in position. It seems to be the same design basically as found on Gibson ABR-1 bridges.

 

I think you will need a replacement for that screw. Perhaps you may find a makeshift like putting a pack of shims between bridge housing and saddle matching intonation. I suggest swapping the screws between G3rd and E1st. The E1st will call for much less shims.

 

Good luck!

 

 

Just took it in - you were absolutely correct. They're trying to find a new spare screw, and if they can't find one they'll swap out the bridge.

 

They put it back in and said it'd be fine for playing until the replacement arrived. Thoughts on that? (I'm extra super careful, since it's a brand new guitar. At the same time, if I don't risk doing more damage by playing it the way it is, I'd like to play it until I can get the screw replaced.)

 

Another quick question: swapping out a LockTone bridge would be fairly easy, yeah? I understand it's only the tailpiece that's "locked". Thinking of replacing it with a non-stock bridge sometime in the future.

 

Thank you for your time [smile]

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...

 

They put it back in and said it'd be fine for playing until the replacement arrived. Thoughts on that? ...

 

Another quick question: swapping out a LockTone bridge would be fairly easy, yeah? I understand it's only the tailpiece that's "locked". Thinking of replacing it with a non-stock bridge sometime in the future.

 

Thank you for your time [smile]

The bridge is locked, too. There is a spring ring on each side clamping it to the posts. It is recommendable to be careful when removing the bridge. If a spring might slip out, it should carefully be reinstalled to the bridge.

 

Due to intonation screw positioning towards the neck, tuning could make the screw missing the bead moving out. This is why I suggested using a pack of shims to assure proper screw position.

 

Basically the Epiphone bridges are fine, and I don't think the problem you encountered is a common one. I heard first of it from you, but of course, there are nice drop-in replacements available.

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I see.

 

Put it this way, then: if they had to replace the entire bridge, would that be a problem due to the locked bridge? Put even simpler, if they order a replacement LockTone bridge, would it be easy to put it on?

 

Sorry for all the noob questions, haven't really worked on ToMs before.

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I see.

 

Put it this way, then: if they had to replace the entire bridge, would that be a problem due to the locked bridge? Put even simpler, if they order a replacement LockTone bridge, would it be easy to put it on?

 

Sorry for all the noob questions, haven't really worked on ToMs before.

When replacing the bridge, the spring clamps of the previous one must not remain at the posts. After possibly removing them, carefully put on the new bridge until it's firmly in position on both posts. The tolerances are so small that the bridge height adjustment should still match the original setup if you don't rotate the posts during replacement.

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When replacing the bridge, the spring clamps of the previous one must not remain at the posts. After possibly removing them, carefully put on the new bridge until it's firmly in position on both posts. The tolerances are so small that the bridge height adjustment should still match the original setup if you don't rotate the posts during replacement.

 

But a good tech could do that?

 

I guess what it all boils down to is, if they can't find a replacement screw, they should be able to find a replacement bridge, and I'm just wondering if replacing the LT bridge would be a problem for a good tech.

 

Bear with me and my ramblings [tongue]

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But a good tech could do that?

 

I guess what it all boils down to is, if they can't find a replacement screw, they should be able to find a replacement bridge, and I'm just wondering if replacing the LT bridge would be a problem for a good tech.

 

Bear with me and my ramblings [tongue]

You could do that yourself without any problem. [thumbup]

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Cap - do you think ABR-1 standard screws would fit an Epi LockTone?

 

Because like I said, you were 100% correct. The bead is broken.

 

I realize how obsessive I sound here, and I could get a replacement guitar tomorrow afternoon, only I don't want to, because the tone and the build is just crazy good.

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