Cleaning gold hardware

[EddyT]

I have a small music shop.  Some of the best I've found for all around cleaning and polish that is mild and works on wood , metal, plastic. chrome, gold, etc.   Plain old "Jubilee Kitchen Wax"

[Eighthnote74]

What about using the same fluid that is used for cleaning gold necklaces? Seems like dipping a soft cloth in that liquid would have the same effect.

[GeminiMike]

Everything I've read says to use only lighter fluid if you're going to use anything at all, and to polish lightly. Otherwise just use a dry polishing cloth after each use to keep the buildup from forming and causing a major issue.

[Sheepdog1969]

My go to set up guy told me about "polishing/cleaning" Gold hardware. Obviously, cleaning will be easier if the Gold plated parts to be cleaned are removed from the guitar and placed on a soft towel to avoid scratches while cleaning. However, I chose to leave my hardware in place, save for the stop bar, and cleaned them during a string change.   Be aware, this process is a bit weird, but it seems to work. (This method is intended for use on 24K Gold, and is generally effective on 18K Gold. Lesser quality/purity Gold may require different "solvents" (such as baking soda, for example), to remove tarnish/oxidation. Using baking soda, or any solvent on Gold, may permanently damage the material and should only be applied by a professional! Please read all instruction before attempting this method, including the metallurgical specifics outlined below.) 

First, wash your hands well, making sure to dry them with a new/clean towel. He then told me to use a dry microfiber cloth to gently wipe down the Gold hardware, just to remove and oils, dust, etc., from them. He warned me not to "scrub" them with the dry microfiber cloth, just use light pressure to wipe them off a bit. He said not to expect this "wipe down" to  do very much. He even said not to even try to remove gunk, (like sticky spots left by mystery fluids like beer, soda, sneezes, etc.), at this stage. Once this first wipe down is completed, he said to get a new/clean microfiber cloth, and not to reuse the first cloth on your guitar until it has been cleaned/washed.

Now this is the weird part. He said to go wash your hands again and brush your teeth and tongue thoroughly. Yup, he wasn't kidding. Then he said to rinse your mouth thoroughly with water until you cannot taste the toothpaste you used anymore. Then, while keeping the new/clean microfiber cloth handy, he said to choose a pickup cover, or a single tuning machine, etc., (just one small part of the Gold hardware at a time), to start with. Next, touch the pad of your index finger (where your finger prints are), to your tongue to slightly wet it with saliva, (not to much), and then gently rub the surface of the Gold hardware you chose to start with in little circles, like waxing a car. He said to think of your finger prints (the ridges and swirls), as the "abrasive", and the saliva as the lubricant and the cleaning solution. Apparently, saliva has a pH that is not overly harsh (corrosive), when used on Gold, yet is just strong enough, (when used as directed), to remove gunk and tarnish. He indicated that I will want to have a clean rag nearby that is dampened with bottled/purified water, to wipe the debris removed the Gold hardware that will build up on your finger pad each time it begins to "get dry" and needs to be remoistened. He said I should expect to be able to polish with my little finger swirls for about 3-5 seconds before the saliva needs to be reapplied. (More than 5 seconds means you are using to much saliva.) So, about every 5 seconds, wipe your finger pad on the wet cloth to remove the build up of transferred gunk, then dry your finger pad on a clean cloth (not the /new clean microfiber you set nearby, btw, as it needs to stay clean to buff the hardware shortly.), then touch the finger pad to your tongue and repeat. (I assure you, you will only forget to wipe off and dry your finger pad once, prior to touching it to your tongue again, since it doesn't taste very good.) On parts like pickup covers, he recommends doing a light initial pass, focusing on any sticky areas and/or surface gunk ( foreign contaminate), and not the tarnish.  Your finger will defiantly feel this irregular build up, if it is present. The goal is to use the saliva in combination with gentle swirls of your finger pad, to loosen and break down this contaminant before using the new/clean microfiber cloth to easily wipe off said, without using the cloth to actually dislodge contamination by "buffing".  The cloth also is used to remove any remaining remnants of saliva upon completion of the part/section of the Gold hardware being cleaned. I tend to be overly cautious, since I had neglected by Gold hardware for so long because I had no idea how to clean it, so I worked very small sections at a time. I would do half a pick up cover at a time, a quarter of the stop bar at a time, etc.,  until that section's surface felt like I had removed all the non tarnish gunk/crud from the Gold. The idea is to get the surface to the point where it is only Gold and Gold tarnish, and then lightly wipe off the section with a dry microfiber cloth to remove the remaining saliva & filth film completely. At this point, you will defiantly see a difference. The next step is to repeat this process again to reduce tarnish. If your guitar's Gold hardware has just oxidized/tarnished, and has little to no oil and crud build up, this first pass will have already begun to restore the Gold's luster considerably. Even filthy hardware like mine will show quite a shine after the first pass.

The next step simply repeats this process again, but this time in an attempt to reduce the dark discoloring tarnish on the surface of the plating. In this process, less is always more. This tends to be a long process, especially for hardware that has been neglected. But, the results are amazing, and the cost is near zero, (save for your time).

This process is not intended to be used repeatedly, and should only be used to restore neglected gold plated hardware.

As detailed below, it is possible to inadvertently remove Gold plating if caution is not employed while utilizing this method.  It is important to gently and completely remove any and all saliva, oils from hands and body, and/or any other material that may be in contact with the Gold plating upon completion of this process. Do not use water, purified or otherwise, on Gold plated surfaces, unless specifically directed to by a qualified metallurgist and luthier. 

Lower karat Gold will be nearly impossible to restore completely, and "pits" cannot be restored/eliminated with this process.

Be warned that areas of Gold plated hardware that have begun to show/expose the underlying base metal, prior to this cleaning method, should be addressed with extreme sensitivity, as this method will undoubtedly accentuate these "bare/extremely thin plated" areas. Gold plating only creates a thin layer of Gold, measured in microns (micrometers). Every time thin plated Gold surfaces are touched/rubbed, Gold (atoms)  are dislodged/removed/transferred. Gold is quite soft, especially as it's purity increases. 24K Gold is considered "pure", yet is far softer, (mailable) than 14K Gold, which is less pure since it is an alloy mixed with other metals. Additionally, Gold tarnish (oxidation) actually is a myth, as Gold atoms do not readily react with Oxygen and/or Sulphur, the main causes of metal oxidation. (Gold is one of the least reactive chemical elements known to man.)  Another myth about Gold relates to purity. 14K Gold is 58.5% pure Gold, 18K Gold is 75% pure, and 24K Gold  is 100% pure Gold. Tarnish/corrosion (oxidation) happens to the percentage of metal(s) that make up the remaining percentage of Gold alloys like 14K and 18K, yet lower karat Gold is harder than higher karat Gold. 14K Gold will eventually tarnish (oxidize) and pit, quite quickly if not maintained, but it is far harder to scratch/damage due to contact.  24K Gold should be nearly impervious to oxidation, but it is soft (like Lead), so it is easily marred,  scratched, deformed, and impossible to be worn as jewelry and/or used as plating. Save for Gold bars and bullion, 24K is NOT used for Jewelry or electroplating guitar hardware, regardless of what labels claim. (hence the myth). Said Jewelry and plating actually are Gold alloys that are nearly 24K pure, and as such, will tarnish (but to a lesser degree). 24K Gold plating (non coated) may become/appear "dull" in areas that receive repetitive contact, despite not exhibiting signs of tarnish (oxidation). This typically is due to the soft metal incurring micro scratches from said contact, thus reducing the reflectivity of it's surface in those areas. In order to maintain the luster of Gold plated materials, it is imperative  that all said surfaces be gently "wiped down" with a clean, soft, microfiber cloth after each use, with special attention given to any areas that came in contact with skin, hair, or other materials or substances. These surfaces, regardless of use, should be "wiped down" in the same fashion every few months as a preventative measure.

Worn Gold plated hardware can be re-plated, with out stripping the remaining Gold. (No need to have to buy new hardware). It is also possible to request the replating to be applied "thicker" than the original plating, in terms of microns of thickness. Be aware that these increases in plating thickness will effect tolerances in critical areas of your guitar.  Consult with an experienced luthier before modifying plating thickness.

Edited March 15 by Sheepdog1969

[merciful-evans]

4 hours ago, Sheepdog1969 said:

My go to set up guy told me about "polishing/cleaning" Gold hardware. Obviously, cleaning will be easier if the Gold plated parts to be cleaned are removed from the guitar and placed on a soft towel to avoid scratches while cleaning. However, I chose to leave my hardware in place, save for the stop bar, and cleaned them during a string change.   Be aware, this process is a bit weird, but it seems to work. (This method is intended for use on 24K Gold, and is generally effective on 18K Gold. Lesser quality/purity Gold may require different "solvents" (such as baking soda, for example), to remove tarnish/oxidation. Using baking soda, or any solvent on Gold, may permanently damage the material and should only be applied by a professional! Please read all instruction before attempting this method, including the metallurgical specifics outlined below.) 

First, wash your hands well, making sure to dry them with a new/clean towel. He then told me to use a dry microfiber cloth to gently wipe down the Gold hardware, just to remove and oils, dust, etc., from them. He warned me not to "scrub" them with the dry microfiber cloth, just use light pressure to wipe them off a bit. He said not to expect this "wipe down" to  do very much. He even said not to even try to remove gunk, (like sticky spots left by mystery fluids like beer, soda, sneezes, etc.), at this stage. Once this first wipe down is completed, he said to get a new/clean microfiber cloth, and not to reuse the first cloth on your guitar until it has been cleaned/washed.

Now this is the weird part. He said to go wash your hands again and brush your teeth and tongue thoroughly. Yup, he wasn't kidding. Then he said to rinse your mouth thoroughly with water until you cannot taste the toothpaste you used anymore. Then, while keeping the new/clean microfiber cloth handy, he said to choose a pickup cover, or a single tuning machine, etc., (just one small part of the Gold hardware at a time), to start with. Next, touch the pad of your index finger (where your finger prints are), to your tongue to slightly wet it with saliva, (not to much), and then gently rub the surface of the Gold hardware you chose to start with in little circles, like waxing a car. He said to think of your finger prints (the ridges and swirls), as the "abrasive", and the saliva as the lubricant and the cleaning solution. Apparently, saliva has a pH that is not overly harsh (corrosive), when used on Gold, yet is just strong enough, (when used as directed), to remove gunk and tarnish. He indicated that I will want to have a clean rag nearby that is dampened with bottled/purified water, to wipe the debris removed the Gold hardware that will build up on your finger pad each time it begins to "get dry" and needs to be remoistened. He said I should expect to be able to polish with my little finger swirls for about 3-5 seconds before the saliva needs to be reapplied. (More than 5 seconds means you are using to much saliva.) So, about every 5 seconds, wipe your finger pad on the wet cloth to remove the build up of transferred gunk, then dry your finger pad on a clean cloth (not the /new clean microfiber you set nearby, btw, as it needs to stay clean to buff the hardware shortly.), then touch the finger pad to your tongue and repeat. (I assure you, you will only forget to wipe off and dry your finger pad once, prior to touching it to your tongue again, since it doesn't taste very good.) On parts like pickup covers, he recommends doing a light initial pass, focusing on any sticky areas and/or surface gunk ( foreign contaminate), and not the tarnish.  Your finger will defiantly feel this irregular build up, if it is present. The goal is to use the saliva in combination with gentle swirls of your finger pad, to loosen and break down this contaminant before using the new/clean microfiber cloth to easily wipe off said, without using the cloth to actually dislodge contamination by "buffing".  The cloth also is used to remove any remaining remnants of saliva upon completion of the part/section of the Gold hardware being cleaned. I tend to be overly cautious, since I had neglected by Gold hardware for so long because I had no idea how to clean it, so I worked very small sections at a time. I would do half a pick up cover at a time, a quarter of the stop bar at a time, etc.,  until that section's surface felt like I had removed all the non tarnish gunk/crud from the Gold. The idea is to get the surface to the point where it is only Gold and Gold tarnish, and then lightly wipe off the section with a dry microfiber cloth to remove the remaining saliva & filth film completely. At this point, you will defiantly see a difference. The next step is to repeat this process again to reduce tarnish. If your guitar's Gold hardware has just oxidized/tarnished, and has little to no oil and crud build up, this first pass will have already begun to restore the Gold's luster considerably. Even filthy hardware like mine will show quite a shine after the first pass.

The next step simply repeats this process again, but this time in an attempt to reduce the dark discoloring tarnish on the surface of the plating. In this process, less is always more. This tends to be a long process, especially for hardware that has been neglected. But, the results are amazing, and the cost is near zero, (save for your time).

This process is not intended to be used repeatedly, and should only be used to restore neglected gold plated hardware.

As detailed below, it is possible to inadvertently remove Gold plating if caution is not employed while utilizing this method.  It is important to gently and completely remove any and all saliva, oils from hands and body, and/or any other material that may be in contact with the Gold plating upon completion of this process. Do not use water, purified or otherwise, on Gold plated surfaces, unless specifically directed to by a qualified metallurgist and luthier. 

Lower karat Gold will be nearly impossible to restore completely, and "pits" cannot be restored/eliminated with this process.

Be warned that areas of Gold plated hardware that have begun to show/expose the underlying base metal, prior to this cleaning method, should be addressed with extreme sensitivity, as this method will undoubtedly accentuate these "bare/extremely thin plated" areas. Gold plating only creates a thin layer of Gold, measured in microns (micrometers). Every time thin plated Gold surfaces are touched/rubbed, Gold (atoms)  are dislodged/removed/transferred. Gold is quite soft, especially as it's purity increases. 24K Gold is considered "pure", yet is far softer, (mailable) than 14K Gold, which is less pure since it is an alloy mixed with other metals. Additionally, Gold tarnish (oxidation) actually is a myth, as Gold atoms do not readily react with Oxygen and/or Sulphur, the main causes of metal oxidation. (Gold is one of the least reactive chemical elements known to man.)  Another myth about Gold relates to purity. 14K Gold is 58.5% pure Gold, 18K Gold is 75% pure, and 24K Gold  is 100% pure Gold. Tarnish/corrosion (oxidation) happens to the percentage of metal(s) that make up the remaining percentage of Gold alloys like 14K and 18K, yet lower karat Gold is harder than higher karat Gold. 14K Gold will eventually tarnish (oxidize) and pit, quite quickly if not maintained, but it is far harder to scratch/damage due to contact.  24K Gold should be nearly impervious to oxidation, but it is soft (like Lead), so it is easily marred,  scratched, deformed, and impossible to be worn as jewelry and/or used as plating. Save for Gold bars and bullion, 24K is NOT used for Jewelry or electroplating guitar hardware, regardless of what labels claim. (hence the myth). Said Jewelry and plating actually are Gold alloys that are nearly 24K pure, and as such, will tarnish (but to a lesser degree). 24K Gold plating (non coated) may become/appear "dull" in areas that receive repetitive contact, despite not exhibiting signs of tarnish (oxidation). This typically is due to the soft metal incurring micro scratches from said contact, thus reducing the reflectivity of it's surface in those areas. In order to maintain the luster of Gold plated materials, it is imperative  that all said surfaces be gently "wiped down" with a clean, soft, microfiber cloth after each use, with special attention given to any areas that came in contact with skin, hair, or other materials or substances. These surfaces, regardless of use, should be "wiped down" in the same fashion every few months as a preventative measure.

Worn Gold plated hardware can be re-plated, with out stripping the remaining Gold. (No need to have to buy new hardware). It is also possible to request the replating to be applied "thicker" than the original plating, in terms of microns of thickness. Be aware that these increases in plating thickness will effect tolerances in critical areas of your guitar.  Consult with an experienced luthier before modifying plating thickness.

Nice job SheepDog1969, There's dedication needed for sure.  

I even like the At this point, you will defiantly see a difference.