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CUSTOMS!!!!!!!!


dylan94

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I'm in the progress of customizing my Les Paul Vintage Mahogany right now. Right now I've just put a Bigsby on but I have some BIG plans, including a custom paint job, new tuners, new saddles and nut, possibly new inlays, and some other more minor aesthetic changes. I'm also thinking about putting a humbucker-sized p90 in the neck pup, maybe a P94 or Seymour Duncan's version of it.

 

It's going to be a big undertaking and in the end it's going to set me back a couple hundred bucks but I think it's worth it for a top-of-the-line one-of-a-kind guitar.

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Looks nice.

 

Yeah, it does. I'm not normally a fan of the goth line Gibson put out a bit ago but it fits the explorer quite well. Wouldn't mind seeing some bigger pics of it. If I ever have the opportunity, I wouldn't mind getting an explorer and turning it into a volatile beast of a guitar.

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i will post bigger pics when its done and i whant to take a les paul gold top rout it out for 3 pickups

and a bigsby b5

 

sounds like a NICE project! We must see pics when you do it! One thing though, being a resident Bigsby Expert, I strongly recommend using a B7 or a B3 instead of the B5.

 

btw, if you have any customization/bigsby questions, feel free to ask... I love answering those kind of questions and I definitely know a thing or two about them. :)

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so whats the befits of the b3 or b7 over the b5

 

The angle that the B5 has with the bridge tends to give the guitar more issues in the areas of tuning, and string breakage. I've also heard other issues with it. Although if you really prefer the appearance of a B5, with a good set-up and a couple mods (typically people go with mods such as locking tuners, good saddles - I like Graph-techs- and a well installed quality nut - typically bone and graphite are preferred) the B5 can work with fairly satisfactory results.

 

The B7, imo, is the best option. But if you don't want to drill any holes on the top of your guitar (they're pickguard-screw sized holes so i didn't care) the B3 is a good option. Take into mind with the B3 that your tailpiece stud-holes will be completely visible.

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what should i put on a sg

 

Typically the B5 is the only model that will work on an sg. But like I said' date=' most of the aforementioned problems can be fixed or lessened by taking some of the suggested steps. Depending on how well it's installed and how it's used, you [i']may [/i]not even run into problems with it though. I suggest using any of the Bigsbys with all of your stock parts first before investing in new nuts, tuners and saddles. Sometimes you won't need them.

 

You can also look into other types of vibrato units such as a Stetsbar (pricey but they supposedly work quite well and are very versatile, no drilling necessary either.)

 

If you research Bigsby's enough you'll hear a lot about roller bridges. I don't recommend them myself. I don't have one and I haven't had too many problems without them (I just suggest the tuner upgrade and the nut/saddle replacement). I've heard many problems with the roller bridges and I don't find them to be worth it for most cases.

 

Also keep in mind that a Bigsby is meant for accenting and mild vibrato, if you want something that can do divebombs and the like, check out something like a floyd or a stetsbar etc.

 

I personally love my bigsby and it fits my needs quite well.

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my nut is chipped on that guitar so i will probably change the nut what nut do u recommend

 

I like graph-tech nuts but many prefer bone nuts. The graph-tech are typically preferred by vibrato users though.

 

The nut itself will probably cost you around 10 bucks (i got my graph tech nut for around 6 bucks) but a good installation may cost you as much a 60. I strongly suggest going to a GOOD tech. A proper nut installation can be a bit tricky' date=' and this is something you want done right. Though If you feel comfortable with it, you can give self-installation a shot but you may end up spending more in tools than just getting it done with a tech that's done it before and knows what he's doing. If you do try doing it yourself though, research it well and make sure you take your time and know what you're doing. Here's a good link for a how-to on nut installation.

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Lap steel I built. Recently reconfigured and upgraded. Fender pickups in a new guard, and the accent piece on the headstock. Upgraded the pots, switch and jack.

 

Rock maple neck, poplar body.

 

Picture2024.jpg

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Picture298027.jpg

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I like graph-tech nuts but many prefer bone nuts. The graph-tech are typically preferred by vibrato users though.

 

The nut itself will probably cost you around 10 bucks (i got my graph tech nut for around 6 bucks) but a good installation may cost you as much a 60. I strongly suggest going to a GOOD tech. A proper nut installation can be a bit tricky' date=' and this is something you want done right. Though If you feel comfortable with it, you can give self-installation a shot but you may end up spending more in tools than just getting it done with a tech that's done it before and knows what he's doing. If you do try doing it yourself though, research it well and make sure you take your time and know what you're doing. Here's a good link for a how-to on nut installation.

Wow im impressed harmonicchaos that you know so much about guitars. I gota stop by some book store and catch up on guitar assemble and such..

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I like graph-tech nuts but many prefer bone nuts. The graph-tech are typically preferred by vibrato users though.

 

The nut itself will probably cost you around 10 bucks (i got my graph tech nut for around 6 bucks) but a good installation may cost you as much a 60. I strongly suggest going to a GOOD tech. A proper nut installation can be a bit tricky' date=' and this is something you want done right. Though If you feel comfortable with it, you can give self-installation a shot but you may end up spending more in tools than just getting it done with a tech that's done it before and knows what he's doing. If you do try doing it yourself though, research it well and make sure you take your time and know what you're doing. Here's a good link for a how-to on nut installation.

 

 

so what about tuners

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so what about tuners

 

(Good) Locking tuners cost anywhere from 50-100+

 

Locking grovers (via stewmac) in nickel cost 50. And locking schallers (via stewmac) in chrome cost about 80, if memory serves me correctly.

 

Most people seem to like grovers and schallers best. I've heard that grovers are THE best you can go as far as tuners go but many don't think that there is that much difference, especially considering the price differences.

 

I'm pretty sure the quote I got for tuner installation was around 60 as well. I think that tuners are simple enough to self-install. Don't really need any other tools other than a screwdriver.

 

I'm not sure what stock tuners you have but I know with the 'vintage' plastic knob style ones, you will have some small visible holes after installing locking tuners. I know the locking Grovers are compatible with the existing holes used with stock grover holes, they just don't use as many as the vintage ones (don't think you have that problem though with standard metal grovers though). I'm almost 100% positive that schaller locking tuners are compatible as well.

 

 

Oh and I thought I'd mention that the quote I got for getting a bigsby installed ranged from 100-200 bucks. Needless to say, I installed the bigsby myself. It was pretty easy for me.

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(Good) Locking tuners cost anywhere from 50-100+

 

Locking grovers (via stewmac) in nickel cost 50. And locking schallers (via stewmac) in chrome cost about 80' date=' if memory serves me correctly.

 

Most people seem to like grovers and schallers best. I've heard that grovers are THE best you can go as far as tuners go but many don't think that there is that much difference, especially considering the price differences.

 

I'm pretty sure the quote I got for tuner installation was around 60 as well. I think that tuners are simple enough to self-install. Don't really need any other tools other than a screwdriver.

 

I'm not sure what stock tuners you have but I know with the 'vintage' plastic knob style ones, you will have some small visible holes after installing locking tuners. I know the locking Grovers are compatible with the existing holes used with stock grover holes, they just don't use as many as the vintage ones (don't think you have that problem though with standard metal grovers though). I'm almost 100% positive that schaller locking tuners are compatible as well.

 

 

Oh and I thought I'd mention that the quote I got for getting a bigsby installed ranged from 100-200 bucks. Needless to say, I installed the bigsby myself. It was pretty easy for me.[/quote']

 

lol 200 bones for bigsby install wow

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Wow im impressed harmonicchaos that you know so much about guitars. I gota stop by some book store and catch up on guitar assemble and such..

 

Thanks, If I really like something I will become semi-obsessed with it in order to learn as much as I can about it. I end up learning a shi.t load. It really comes in handy with school sometimes.

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thanks so much i am going to get the b5 and install it on my sg in the near future so look for that post and this one

 

Anytime man! I'm a certified guitar geek, I love this stuff. Yep, I'll be watching for it.

 

 

I'd also like to say that quite a bit of my info has also been attained from asking a lot of questions, both on the forums and at my favorite guitar store. Love to be able to pass it along.

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I got an old strat copy I fiddle around with but nothing like you got going on.

 

here is a picture of it with a Kahler Bridge, Danelectro neck pickup and Epiphone humbucker

n534645634_5566644_9672.jpg

 

This is the same guitar with the stock bridge and middle pickup. Guitar Fetish Tele pickup and no neck pickup.

n534645634_5566645_9985.jpg

 

Now it looks more like the second picture except I put the Kahler back on.

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