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Fastest (easiest) action on a 24.75" neck (making this Epi-related)


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I learned guitar on a 1935 Silvertone with "okay" action, and had a 1960 Ibanez acoustic with action like a squareneck Dobro. I had strong fingers then, but I don't now.

 

If you were to set up an Epi Sheraton or Dot or Les Paul and wanted the fastest action, which strings would you use? I have learned that using thin strings (like Ernie Ball Super Slinky) makes the easier to push down, but the fret buzz means you have to raise the action.

 

Your opinion: what is the best compromize between string gauge and string height? I briefly played a Mosrite back in the mid-60's, and it had the fastest action I had ever seen on a guitar. I've never been able to come close to emulating it, and I think it is because I'm using strings that are too "slinky". ](*,)

 

I deliberately avoid most brands except Epi and Gretsch because of the short scale (and the Byrdland is a guitar that many of you would really like...that slightly-shorter scale makes a lot of difference). I'll probably unload all of my 25"+ scale length guitars on ebay.

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Nut height will have a big difference on the action. If you have a look at Dan Erlewines articles (at stewmac.com)on setups and nut heights for different types of professionals and guitars, you may find that the nut height on 25.5" scale necks like teles and strats may be toward the high side of the spectrum for you. A good way to check is to play an F barre chord, then put a capo at the 1st fret and play an F sharp barre, then notice the amount of pressure needed to play one from the other. Fender says that stock they are of a medium height, but I think that they are more toward the high side personally. The grooves can be lowered without the dreaded fret buzz. I have played, and owned some 25.5" scale guitars that are almost effortless to play without having to play lighter, or use a lighter gage pick.

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PLEK is the answer to your woes. LINK

 

I've had this process performed on several guitars. It is undoubtedly the single BEST upgrade I've ever made to any guitar. This process involves dialog between the player and the PLEK operator to determine exactly the action you want, a COMPLETE setup (or the computer has no ZERO reference), computer controlled grind, level, polish to spec. Your specs can be saved or noted by the operator, adjustments had for future reference - or the entire setup duplicated on another guitar. Action is low enough that depressing strings is more a function of moving my finger to the correct string/fret than pushing down.

 

In San Francisco, cost runs $200-250 depending on who's doing it. There are only a couple of machines, because of the expense. The process is good enough, and proven enough, that many of the more upscale guitar manufacturers are using it on new guitars before it leaves the factory.

 

If you love the guitar, its worth the money.

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You asked about strings and height. I use GHS boomers 10s on all my electrics and have no problems. I have never liked slinkys personally. Once a guitar is set up properly you should be able to use most strings but Very light or heavy strings can or will require adjustments to compromise.

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The lighter gauge strings are less stiff. And they seem to produce less "sound". There's the rub. The Mosrites had very flat fretwire, and the strings were extremely low but didn't buzz. It's been 45 years.a but the fret wire was so low it seemed to be painted on. Bigger gauge, less "flap" of the string, and the closer they can be to the frets. As was mentioned earlier, the nut seems to be the link.

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