Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

Stripper Schematic


wedgeSG

Recommended Posts

I've got an idea I'm wanting to try out and I hope somebody here can give me an idea on the best

wiring method and components to use. What I'm planning is a bridge pickup only G-400. I want a

volume knob and that's it save for one l'il addition I'll get to in a minute. The pickup used will either

be a 498t or a Dirty Fingers - and as I mentioned a single volume control. In this simplistic configuration

what type and range of pot should be employed? What value of capacitor- or does it require one? I

realize that this is about as simple as it gets but could somebody suggest a schematic for this? If so,

here's the l'il addition I may or may not throw into the project. Seeing as how the switch has nothing

to switch I'm thinking of going to a center position (off-on-off) momentary toggle wired inline as a kill

switch. If I were to incorporate that where would it go in the circuit and is center position on generally

considered correct for that use? Hopefully some of the modders can breathe some life into this all or

nothing little hotrod I have in mind.

 

Wedgie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got an idea I'm wanting to try out and I hope somebody here can give me an idea on the best

wiring method and components to use. What I'm planning is a bridge pickup only G-400. I want a

volume knob and that's it save for one l'il addition I'll get to in a minute. The pickup used will either

be a 498t or a Dirty Fingers - and as I mentioned a single volume control. In this simplistic configuration

what type and range of pot should be employed?

 

The standard 500k pot should be good.

 

What value of capacitor- or does it require one?

 

You can use a resistor and capacitor combo and connect that to the center tap of the volume pot.

The resistor can be a value of say 150K or 220K (midrange on the tone pot) and a cap that can

vary from .01 to .033uf . .022uf being the nominal. It all depends on whether you want to tame

the highs coming off the bridge a bit more.

 

I realize that this is about as simple as it gets but could somebody suggest a schematic for this?

 

Not much of schematic required here. Take the hot wire from the p_up and connect it to the left

tap (looking at the pot) and the center tap to a kill switch. Wire one side of the kill switch to gnd

which will be the pot case. Take the shielded output from the vol pot over to the jack.

 

Seeing as how the switch has nothing to switch I'm thinking of going to a center position (off-on-off) momentary toggle wired inline as a kill switch.

If I were to incorporate that where would it go in the circuit and is center position on generally

considered correct for that use? Hopefully some of the modders can breathe some life into this all or

nothing little hotrod I have in mind.

 

It depends on whether you want the kill to be on (up or down position) and the center to be normal "on".

If that is the case, then the center contacts on the 3 way are normal out and the other two outside

contacts would be ground. You just need a shielded wire for that and its a "stub" basically to

provide the switch contact action for the output jack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What value of capacitor- or does it require one?

 

Wedgie

Technically no capacitor is required since the cap is usually part of the tone circuit which you are eliminating. That being said, it may be advisable to connect a .001µF cap across the volume pot (use the lug that's connected to the pickup and the center tap lug). This will allow the highs to bleed through a bit when you back off the volume to compensate for the filtering effect of the pot.

 

If you want to be really clever, you could wire the three-way switch so that you get kill/normal/volume bypass; i.e. by flicking the switch down it bypasses the volume knob setting for 'solo volume'. Dan Armstrong used this trick on his lucite Ampeg guitars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, thanks for the imput, it was mentioned which lugs to use when looking at the pot. Oriented which way?

Shaft pointed at celing or floor...lugs facing you or away from you? I guess this is a stupid question kinda like,

"connect to the left lug" "uhh nope your other left lug". "The resistor can be 150K or 220k (midrange on the tone

pot), connected to center tap on the pot." I'm guessing you mean intended range if there was one: so cap/res from

center lug to where? By incorporating a resistor here are you implying a type of treble bleeding circuit?

Most stuff I've done has used .022uf at the bridge and if needed that was kinda the value I had in mind but the pickup is hotter than I normally use. Not really wanting to kill much of the high end, which value would be

best with the hotter pickup with that in mind. Finally I suppose any 3 way could be wired to work but what I

was thinking was momentary; (hold up/down off - spring back to center on). Does something like that exist?

or Should I just go with a simple two way - SPST on/off? RotcanX thanks for the Dan Armstrong idea - giving that

some serious consideration now....

 

Wedgie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it was mentioned which lugs to use when looking at the pot. Oriented which way?

Shaft pointed at celing or floor...lugs facing you or away from you?

Usually it is assumed that you are looking at the back of the pot, with the lugs on the bottom. The left lug is connected to the pickup; the center lug is the output (to the switch or, in this case, directly to the output jack) and the right lug is usually bent over and soldered directly to the pot's case for the ground connection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...