nickammo Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I have a MIK Casino that is a decent guitar, but I want to make it better. First, I switched out all of the electronics for American. Then, I switched the pickups to Vintage Vibe. They sound great! Now, the problem is the tuners. One broke and they are all difficult to turn. I want to replace them. While I'm at it, I want to change some other parts too. From what I can tell: 1) These would be good for the tuners: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_solid_peghead_tuners/Gotoh_Tuners/Gotoh_Vintage-style_Oval_Knob_Tuners.html 2) Can't figure out what bridge would be best. I'm thinking: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_Tune-o-matic_bridges/Schaller_Roller_Bridge.html 3) The nut. I'm thinking this would be a good fit: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/String_nuts/White_Bone_Nuts.html (Item 6011) 4) What do you guys usually do with the tailpiece? I want to upgrade the parts, but do the whole thing (tuners, bridge & nut) for around $100 or less. Do these parts work or should I choose different parts all together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hungrycat Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I wouldn't bother with the roller bridge unless you're going for a Bigsby, and then I would also go with some locking tuners (Sperzels are my favorite) and a Graphtech nut for maximum tuning stability. If you're NOT going Bigsby, just go for a regular Gotoh bridge (make sure you get Metric). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickammo Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 I should have said as well that one of my goals is to keep the overall look similar to the current look. That why I was looking at those tuners. The rolling tuner is not necessary. I should probably look at this: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_Tune-o-matic_bridges/Gotoh_Tune-o-matic_Bridge.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bynapkinart Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 First off, define "better"...if you want to make it play better or sound better than it does already. I went all vintage on mine for the feel and sound of it...the tuners I replaced with Kluson single-line tuners ($30 on eBay)(what they used in the 60's, albiet now korean, same as my casino), the nut I replaced with a Tusq XL nut ($12 at my local guitar shop), I replaced the saddles instead of the whole bridge (with Tusq saddles, $20 on eBay) and the tailpiece with the vintage-spec allparts tailpiece ($35 or so on the bay). I made these decisions for myself based on the fact that I like my guitar a ton, and I wanted to make it more vintage and badass. I probably overpost this vid, but: . I think that's a pretty satisfactory end product (ish...I'm looking to do one or two more things to it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I have a MIK Casino that is a decent guitar' date=' but I want to make it better. First, I switched out all of the electronics for American. Then, I switched the pickups to Vintage Vibe. They sound great! Now, the problem is the tuners. One broke and they are all difficult to turn. I want to replace them. While I'm at it, I want to change some other parts too. From what I can tell: [b']1) These would be good for the tuners:[/b] YES - and get the bushing set, these kill the stock tuners http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_solid_peghead_tuners/Gotoh_Tuners/Gotoh_Vintage-style_Oval_Knob_Tuners.html 2) Can't figure out what bridge would be best. I'm thinking: YES - best bridge available, it's not a roller per se, it has adjustable string spacing which you need sometimes http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_Tune-o-matic_bridges/Schaller_Roller_Bridge.html 3) The nut. I'm thinking this would be a good fit: TUSQ, is pre-slotted 99 percent as good for 10 percent of the work. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/String_nuts/White_Bone_Nuts.html (Item 6011) 4) What do you guys usually do with the tailpiece? KEEP yours, it's hard to get better without going to Gibson aluminium - and then there's woork making it fit for very little advantage. I want to upgrade the parts, but do the whole thing (tuners, bridge & nut) for around $100 or less. Do these parts work or should I choose different parts all together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New To Strats Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Obviously, you need to address the tuning machines - any correctly-fitted major-brand (Grover, Gotoh, etc.) ones will work fine. The rest of the stuff you mentioned is a waste of money, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TP Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Is that roller bridge a direct drop in replacement for the stock casino bridge? On my Casino with the Factory installed Epi branded Bigsby, I have thought a bridge replacement would be a good thing but have hesitated due to not being sure about how to size it correctly when ordering a new bridge. I think the rollers would help keep my 96 Casino in tune and I really like the thought of those tuner buttons also.... good thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Obviously' date=' you need to address the tuning machines - any correctly-fitted major-brand (Grover, Gotoh, etc.) ones will work fine. The rest of the stuff you mentioned is a waste of money, in my opinion.[/quote'] Yes he needs tuners, but he also needs a nut, Epi plastic nuts are almost never cut properly, they're basically junk. Sorry but there is no comparison between a stock epi nut and a bone or tusq nut. As 9 out of 10 Epi stock nuts leave something to be desired, oh yes he needs the cheapest most effective upgrade money can buy, a tusq nut. Now to the third biggest pos on a stock epi, the bridge. If you need the slightest amount of lateral string adjustment at the bridge (which most epi's do) and if you want more room for adjustment of intonation, and if you want saddles that work properly (strings bend, don't break and return to pitch) then get that bridge because they do all the above much better than the stock item. The tail piece is a waste, you're right there... although the stock one does add weight for no good reason TP - the bridge will fit but it's not by any means drop-in, work is required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerobox94 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Is there a difference in Casinos made in Korea and Casinos made in China? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New To Strats Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I forgot to mention the single most important thing about these upgrades: YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 YMMV, that's for sure, if you don't understand how critical the nut is and how to cut/install one, your results will vary, but I never seen one properly done that didn't noticeably change the guitar. But I'll give in on all the rest, your right, none of them will do anything that will make an audible difference, you'd just be replacing junk parts with good parts and you'll end up with a guitar that plays trouble free for years, instead of the usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New To Strats Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 YMMV' date=' that's for sure, if you don't understand how critical the nut is and how to cut/install one, your results will vary, but I never seen one properly done that didn't noticeably change the guitar. But I'll give in on all the rest, your right, none of them will do anything that will make an audible difference, you'd just be replacing junk parts with good parts and you'll end up with a guitar that plays trouble free for years, instead of the usual.[/quote'] While replacing unreliable parts with reliable parts is obviously a good idea, there are also competing philosophies like "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I purchased my first Epiphone electric three years ago and then started perusing this forum. The many posts about the alleged unreliability of the components made me wonder how soon my Dot would fail, and I considered replacing the pots, switch and jack. But I decided to wait and see. Three years, no failure. So, in my case, the popular forum advice was somewhat misleading, however well-intentioned. I'm not saying that every player should do as I do, I'm just saying that an owner considering mods/upgrades should gather as much info as possible, and scrutinize all opinions in order to make an informed decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TP Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 One thing should be noted..... no matter what the upgrades are, they will cost more than the value you would get in any resale if that is an important consideration for you. I don't typically upgrade a guitar that I know won't be with me very long....... I will however, upgrade a guitar I plan on keeping as it does make it a better player and sounding guitar overall. Nuts, saddles, bridges, fret condition and materials along with proper electronics and wiring make all the difference in how the guitar feels and plays. I wouldn't say that 3 years is near enough time for cheaper componants to fail or become problematic. When I had good wiring, pots and switch installed in my Casino, it was 14 years old but was ready to get the upgrades. I likely would have swappe them out years earlier if I had owned it then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New To Strats Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Hmmmm.....14 years? Is that what some people consider unreliable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_edward Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I can see there's no point, have a good one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New To Strats Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I can see there's no point' date=' have a good one...[/quote']And your point is...? My point is simply differentiating "need to do" from "want to do". Why be frustrated because I don't totally share your philosophy? I can see and value yours without necessarily agreeing with it. It doesn't make one of us wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CajunBlues Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 And your point is...? My point is simply differentiating "need to do" from "want to do". Why be frustrated because I don't totally share your philosophy? I can see and value yours without necessarily agreeing with it. It doesn't make one of us wrong. I think you are missing the point Mission.. The guy wants to replace parts and he is asking questions about what parts to change and with what ? Who cares why he wants/needs to replace the parts... So don't try to derail the thread into asking why he wants to replace the parts. Just address the original question... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New To Strats Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I have been properly chastised, and will never again say anything that someone may not like, which pretty much boils down to saying nothing. Happy now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TP Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Hmmmm.....14 years? Is that what some people consider unreliable? Not at all.... pretty good IMO' date=' But.................. I changed them within a few months of owning the guitar because they obviously needed it done much earlier but it had not be attended to. (Which also got me a great deal on the guitar) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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