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james_edward

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About james_edward

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  1. I don't want to rain on anybodies parade, but the most commonly found counterfeit epi's are EE07 Customs in black, white and silverburst - sometimes the EE is in a larger font but not always. My other issue is you never seem to see a real Epi with the tuner washers overlapping the binding and many fakes do show that issue - so I'm not trying to say it's fake, but if i were you I'd open up the control cavity and take a sharp utility knife and cut away a slice of the cavity wall to see what she's made of. You could also post clear close-up pictures of the control cavity, front / back of headstock and front of the body for opinions here.
  2. THIS is post of the week, no doubt... Prague-matic, damian your killing me...
  3. First, those strings were no good the day you brought it home, by now their garbage and you need a new set. Second, you need to do the simple test for nut slot height - fret the string in question at the third (so the string is touching the second and third frets) and check to see if there's space between between the bottom of the string and the top of the first fret. Any space over the thickness of a sheet of paper means that with the correct neck relief it should play without buzz caused by the nut slot height. Best suggestion yet is a new Tusq nut installed per the above test...
  4. In almost all cases fret buzz and intonation are not "issues with frets" they're issues with set up. Why anyone thinks that a guitar can be taken home from the store and played without any work is beyond me.
  5. A little bit of open end grain that should have been covered by the grain filler or poly coat, not really the end of the world. I suppose if you want an absolutely flawless guitar you could complain...with what you paid you did alright and I think my times worth more to me so probably I wouldn't complain...how does it play? .
  6. Plus one here, I found the GFS (the 1 set I bought) was not an articulate pick up and I tired every way to dial them in, could not bond with them.
  7. As Willy mentioned, upload some pictures and many here will be glad to help. On a side note; Willy that avatar is a real work of art, a subtle touch so to speak, I didn't notice it for a while but when I did it said everything, nice work.
  8. True temper, earvana nuts, compromises... all that comes after you deal with the most common cause of your problem - the nut height. If the neck is very close to flat and the nut slots are as low as possible, then delve into the rest of it, but not until then. There should be almost no space under the first fret when you fret the third.
  9. If I was anywhere near Massachusetts it wouldn't be for sale now.
  10. Pete R. knows about the layers of binding which look wrong to me (pretty sure 7 ply is wrong) so lets wait on that one. The tuner washers on top of the binding is a pretty sure sign. Even if mini pots were stock, IMO (hungarycat) that's not a Epi factory wiring job, see the way the caps are wired. I'd still like to see a pic of the cavity wall after it's been cut clean with a razor knife to see the material and please throw in one of the back of the headstock.
  11. Judging by those pictures - especially the tuner placement, the electrics, headstock logo, too many ply's in the binding, the volute, I'm leaning towards fake - can you cut away some of the body wall in the cavity to expose the wood, let's see what you've got there. Where's Pete when you need him? Edit; looking in that control cavity - do I see MDF?? I'd love to know.
  12. Could easily be a Greco, Burny or even Tokai, all of them excellent guitars you'd better hurry for that money. Billerica Massachusetts, yes.
  13. Or... you could buy yourself a nickel-silver pickup cover (which are not plated) and engrave them like a guy I know who builds very nice custom pickups here in Toronto.
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